mack10series

Thanks man!

You could ground all your wires to it. It's the same continuous "surface" as the back of your pots, if the pots are touching the shielding.

A better way is to use a "star" ground... all of your grounds go to a metal washer (including a wire from the back of one pot, which will ground the entire shielded cavity, if the pot is touching the shielding as it should), and then 1 wire is sent to your output jack's ground lug. Make sure that none of those wires are bare and wrap the washer up in electric tape, too, and you'll have a ground-loop-free zone. Braided wires that only shield pickup cables are an exception, and can be soldered to the cavity's shielding material.

Greg

as far as the washer, what would be the best thing to do; solder it to the shielding, or screw it to the wall of the cavity

Sorry if this is a reposted question, but if i were to shield the inside of my electronics cavity on my guitar. could i ground all of my wires to it, or would i still have to use the back of a pot, lug, or something else?

As for the 'pull-off' problem, you need to be more specific --do you mean the strange sound happens when you're doing pulloffs? or do you mean that the string pulls off the neck itself. The first will definitely be fixed with a setup, the second indicates a different problem.

for example when i play the intro to the spirit of radio, the high E pulls off the neck, making a high pitched noise... almost like the string is too close to the edge of the fretboard. I am pretty familiar with the setup process, but cant seem to find a really good guide on the total setup on a floyd-equipped guitar..

I want to get my wolfgang to play like it was brand new! The guitar has fret buzz all over, and has a strange pull off problem on the high E string where the string goes off of the neck, and makes a non-pleasant sound. Can anyone help me out, or point me in the right direction?

sorry if this is a stupid request, but can someone show me an actual picture of the toggle switch shown in this schematic

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/schem...ay-w-split.html

thanks

question, would it work if say one would put all the ground wires into a wire nut?

...the same way as you'd wire a regular volume/tone setup. Every major pickup manufacturer will show you how, with pictures.

Push/pull pots are just regular pots that happen to have (entirely independant) switches riding along.

thanks man!

bump.

I have another question; being that i will only have the 2 push pull pots, how do make one of them a tone pot, and the other one a volume?

i am putting together a dean bolt-on guitar, and in buying the parts i bought what i thought was a generic neck plate & bolt set. When i tried attaching the neck to the body, the bolts would not go in all the way. Do I need different length bolts, do i have to redrill the holes on the neck,or do i have to shim the neck?

If these are the pickups you're getting Bill Lawrence USA then they should come with 4-conductor wiring.

OTOH, if you're going to buy the handmade 500s from Bill and Becky Lawrence ( http://www.billlawrence.com/ ), they'll still come with 4-conductor leads - they'll just sound better!

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those are the ones im ordering, thats good to know!

Remember you'll have to make sure your pickups are 4 conductor. Most guitars that don't have coil splits/phasing as standard use 2 conductor wires. You could split the pickup into a 4 conductor if you wanted, but it's a little tricky and quite easy to get wrong.

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im ordering an l-500xl, and l-500c. Are they four conductor pickups?

I have a 2 humbucker guitar w/3-way switch, and I want to split the coils on both of them. I was browsing through the seymour duncan site and wasnt sure which schematic to use. Does anyone have a schematic on how i would do this?

My explorer got flooded out in the recent hurricane; the neck fell off, i scrapped all the hardware and electronics, but the body is salvageable. I wanted to know how would i go about converting it to a bolt-on. I know there will be routing involved, but does anyone have experience with this type of thing? Any advice on what to do?

man, if i were you, i'd keep the guitars the way they are...testament to the strength of the axes

obviously, you'd have to redo the electronics, and reglue the fretboard back onto the neck of the second guitar, but otherwise, i'd let the guitars dry out for a looong time, and toss everything back together...make it sort of a EDITTED you to Katrina...

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yea EDITTED katrina is going to be my theme for the new paint job, but i didnt really like the neck in the first place, so this will hopefully give me a chance to get a warmoth.

even when and if i get it cleaned up, is there any way to convert it to a bolt-on?

i left all my gear, minus one guitar, at my home for hurricane katrina. I wanted to know if there was any way to refinish and rebuild them. Here are some pics:

http://members.cox.net/mack10series/epiphone.jpg

http://members.cox.net/mack10series/ibanez.jpg

here are the picture posting rules.

I really want to clean up and rebuild the explorer; i was thinking of sanding all of the finish off to the bare wood and going from there. Would there be any way that i could convert it to a bolt-on neck guitar? Does anyone have any ideas of how to clean it after i sand it down?

the bridge never did sit flush to the body when in tune, but it never sat this high before

it has 3 trem springs right now, if i add another 2 and tighen them down all the way would it really make a big difference?

hello, i am having a problem with my rg270dx tremelo. I dissassembled the guitar to refinish it, and ever since i put it back together, when it finally gets in tune, the back of the trem is seriously high off of the guitar, if i had to guess it would be about an inch and a 1/4. I have it blocked right now, but im kinda missing using the trem, is there a way to fix it to where it will work good, and, or if i buy an OFR will it do the same thing?? any help would be appreciated, thanks..

are there any other possible things that could be wrong with it besides bad, or wrong wiring??

you might have the neck wire from the switch/neck pickup wired to the wrong side of the pot, or some other error with the tone pot wiring.

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do you have a link for a wiring schematic for a fat strat??

Hi i have a mexi fat strat, and whenever i switch to the position closest to the neck( i assume that this is the neck pickup selected) i get absolutley nothing, but when i turn both tone pots all the way down, i get sound; when i switch back to the other 4 positions, they all sound muddy, but of course sound normal when i turn the tone pots back up. at first i thought it could be a bad switch, but after changing it the problem remains. What could be the problem?? could it be a bad neck pickup, or something else?? any help is appreciated!

did you download the DWF viewer? You should be able to print with it too

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the thing is i have an engraving machine at work.. the engraver is hooked up to an anchient machine, which is not on the company network, and the 5.12mb viewer obviously wont fit on a floppy. i know i could burn the viewer on a cd and load it on the pc, but then there would be compatibility issues being that it is so old.. so long story short, it would be much easier if i just had a cad file..

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I have Autocad 2002 in this machine, but it doesn't recognize the file either...I'll ask my wife, she's the architect...maybe she can convert it at work?

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that would be awesome! thanks!