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eddiewarlock

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Posts posted by eddiewarlock

  1. sounds like the way to go Scott. This is the first time this happens to me. I really don't know what it is. I have been building guitars since 2002, and i don't know if seasons has anything to do with this.

    Up until 2013 i lived in Venezuela, neverending summer, and where i lived, not really humid. Here in southern Spain, doesn't rain much for most of the year, and it's mostly warm, but there are seasons...

  2. Without going into a discussion on elastic vs. plastic deformation, it depends how you remove it. Heat and flat palette knives are best. You shouldn't get a lot of upbow unless you are bending it whilst heated. The heat will likely unseat the inlays anyway.

    i use heat and an exacto knife, which is kinda the same as using a flat palette knife. but for some reason, they always curve upwards...

  3. Then I'd say pull it off and see if the fretboard is worth saving at that point. If it is still warped after you remove it replace it and if it is flat use it again. You may have to give it a little time to flatten back out if it was the neck that was doing the warping.

    SR

    well, hard to tell, in my experience. Everytime i've removed a fretboard, it ends up curved upwards. Like in an upbow.

    How long would you let it sit before taking a decision?

  4. So i am building this neck thru guitar, all sapele, 3 piece sapele neck, quartersawn. Quartersawn ebony fretboard, with sharkfin inlays and ivoroid binding.

    I have been building this guitar the last 2 years. Second fretboard i use.

    First one was removed because the inlays sucked.

    The guitar has always been inside my house and has been primed with polyurethane since march 2014.

    I want to save the fretboard because the inlay set was damn expensive, but i have read that in many cases, warped necks are caused by fretboards.

    What is your opinion? save or not to save?

  5. so i am going to necro bump this and ask, since we all know that sapele is a suitable and very nice, albeit heavy wood for guitar building, i have heard it's tone is a bit darker than mahogany.

    I have some and would like to build a 7 string 27" sapele guitar, with a tune o matic bridge and string thru body. Katalox fretboard. Pickups might be some hand wound alnico 8 pickups...

    Any opinions?

  6. i haven't entered a guitar in here in ages...so here i go:

    Tele/ Firebird hybrid.

    Specs:

    Neck tru body, laminated, maple/mahogany/maple.

    Mahogany wings

    Ebony fretboard, 25.5" scale, 22 frets, cream binding.

    Gotoh tune o matic

    Sperzel tuners

    Alnico II pickups handwound by Jess Loureiro

    Pots by CTS, orange drop Cap, Switchcraft jack.

    Link to build thread

    http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/47289-questions-about-building-a-guitar-adhesives-and-more/

    DSC04074_zps12e2fee7.jpg

    URL]

    O4jNBCY_zpsc91a8e22.jpg

    xDWY4gC_zpsfad364ab.jpg

    Ghv4USv_zps2ffd4c23.jpg

  7. yeah specially Allan's work. I "know" him since at least, 10 years ago, from the Moser Custom Shop forum. I'd build guitars everyday, for myself, Allan didn't even started if i recall correctly.

    I look at the quality of his work and am amazed, not only me, but others like Sebastard from the MCS forum who have seen him evolve.

    I take my hat off every time i see his creations, and feel very proud of him. I have asked him for advice, even if i started building guitars before him, but mine has never been up to his level of craftmanship.

    Now i think it's time to stop looking at your beautiful guitars! hehehe

  8. doesn't seem like a good reason to me. You can do that before. I wouldn't have carved the neck either.

    You can inlay and fret the fretboard before it's on the neck. After that, you only need to level and recrown frets, and after that, paint the guitar.

    No multitasking involved. Like the guys above have said, it is a recipe for refinish...

    No offense mate, but it seems like you really looking for ways to waste your time and money.

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