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eddiewarlock

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Posts posted by eddiewarlock

  1. Curing time is not the only consideration as to whether an epoxy is good for use on wood.Obviously it's feasible to have a very thin epoxy formula that would penetrate the wood and create a strong bond in a shorter time frame than 24 hours.

    All of the quality epoxies I have used are 24 hour cure and all of the 5 to 20 minute varieties have been crap...but the main issue with "5 minute epoxy" is that when people say 5 minute epoxy they mean that Loctite crap you get at your garden variety big box store...and that stuff is only good for use on stuff that doesn't matter to anyone.

    5 minutes epoxy sucks, regardless of the brand.

    The one i have bought it's thin, sets in 6 hours, and resists traction up to 350 kilograms/cm2 ( roughly 305 lbs/ inch) which makes me think it has a great bonding strength

  2. I was wondering about this same issue. Back in Venezuela i used this 2 ton epoxy made by Devcon. Great stuff, hard, easy to work with, cheap ( and it was top quality) and its setting time was around 8 hours.

    Now i have moved to Spain where the epoxy i have found is made by Ceys, which seems to be a top brand and top quality, but it is very expensive... the label reads that it's setting time is 6 hours.

    I have been tempted to buy polyurethane glue, but after reading this, i won't, now, do you think it'll be fine using this epoxy?

  3. Yep, if you can use flatsawn or even better quartesawn wood, then great, but when you've bought a plank of hard maple at a great price, that happens to be fairly straight, seems to be a waste not to use just because it's rift sawn...

    There are several guitars i would like to make, some for me and some for sale, obviously that the ones for sale will have the best pieces of wood, and was wondering what the problem was with rift sawn maple as i have found little information about it.

    But i didn't think PRS would use it :)

  4. So, i finally bought that hard maple. Now, this is my first time using maple for necks. I have worked with purpleheart, mahogany, spanish cedar, apamate, lignum vitae...just not maple.

    I have this quartersawn piece, that has the grain straight but it curves gradually to a side.

    The other piece has a more straight grain, but it's rift sawn...

    which one would be better?

  5. Hi guys i'm in Spain and about to buy timber to build guitars.

    I finally found hard maple, however, they have warned me it MIGHT have termites.

    I have never dealt with this problem as the timber i have used like spanish cedar, mahogany and purpleheart are not prone to have termites.

    The plank i liked and would like to buy seems free of them, but they said it still can have them.

    This is the only place that sells hard maple i have found here in Seville, it's a long and thick plank...

    I plan to cut and slice the plank into neck thru blanks to use in the future and that way i could see infected pieces and discard them...

    what do you think?

    PD: Other places sell Pacific maple, which i believe is soft maple, but i didn't see a quartersawn piece,,,

  6. well...i am still not sure. Still waiting to see what i can find in Spain, but sure as hell they won't know the difference between the maple species.

    I have here in Venezuela a purpleheart blank i might use for that project, but i wanted to use it in a guitar with a translucent finish, not an opaque one, as i have built many guitars with purplheart but it doesn't show.

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