Stratman1966

Mask off the binding, bridge, neck and decals and do a solid color like black. Or just keep sanding away and possibly try a gel stain the stain lays on top of the surface and does not actually dye the wood that much so the blotches would not be that noticeable and suggest a darker stain.

Should sound good playing some Lead Zeppelin tunes

$35 is a still a great price. measure twice cut once.

Hello nice job. Can you elaborate how you work with the aluminum. I Do you weld it, press it, etc. thanks

Make us all green with envy.

Click here

This link has a poll and examples of different transparent colors over quilted maple.

Click here too

That's some great looking tight grain on that wood. What kind of wood is that and how heavy. Nice looking body shape too.

16-32 is the most useful tool in the shop... With 50 grit paper it can rip through leveling a body blank. Then you only need a small Jointer like the Delta table top unit.

Also it does not tear-out expensive figured wood.... I hate planers and routers.

Ditto! I use my Delta 18-36 with 60 grit to thickness my glued up boards and then 120 grit. I can see how a planer would do this quicker but since you already own the drum sander you're good to go. You get a sanded finish with less chance of tearout and much quieter then a planer. I love mine.

Just a quick update - due to several other things I've not had a chance to visit the shop yet - I think it'll be Friday now.

I would be interested in a 9.5 radius. at the $40 price

I used to think the veneer boards was Fender cutting costs, but now I don't really think that. I don't know what to believe as to why they did it that way. I've heard they actually were doing flat bottom slab boards in the very late 50's, then started doing a "thick veneer" rose board, then the veneer got thinner, and one story says they thought the slab was altering the sound too much and same with the thick veneer, and the thin veneer was the right compromise. As with a lot of old Fender stories, you can just as well throw all that out the window as well as believe it to be true.

Good info, makes sense. Thanks

WOW

can i ask?

why would you do that? what is the point of radiusing it both and then gluing it? why not just do it the regular way and glue it flat and then radius JUST the fretboard?

I always like the look of the thin veneer and wanted to make one. Plus I have (3) 3/16'' Brazilian Rosewood fret board blanks. Too thin to make slabboards so the veneer is the way to go.

wow, this seems like a lot of work.

I would radius the underside of the rosewood without thinning it. glue that to the neck and then remove excess thickness. I would do this way because it would be easier to cut the fret slots in a flat surface.

but I think that the factory would have done it differently. getting the rosewood at 1/8" already and then bending it over a radiused neck.

I will probaly build a router radius cutting jig to cut the radius on both pieces. That will at least make it easier and quicker.

I am curious how the factory did it.

Hello I'm making a 60's style Fender Strat neck with the 1/8" thick rosewood veneer top over maple.

I'm referring to the neck on right dated OCT 64

I went at it by radiusing the maple neck first with a radiusing block.

Then attach sandpaper to the top of the radiused maple neck.

Then I radiused the underside of the rosewood fretboard rubbing it back and forth over that.

Then I plan on gluing it up then radius the top.

My question is, is it easier to thin the fretboard first say done to 1/8" and then somehow bend it over a radiused neck

thus creating the radius for the underside and top alot easier.

The hand block radiusing is too much work.

Has anyone done this.

Thanks.

I use the Stew mac radius block with 320 grit. I was previoulsy using the Stew Mac fret leveler but that was too coarse and removed too much metal.

Rockler and Lowes opened up outlets next door to me because I shop so often their.

i'm looking to buy a template bit for my router and I don't know what would be the best cutting length and diameter and overall length to get precise and detailed route through a template. The site that i'm looking at has many available.

http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/s...0545319_6514+47

I don't know if any of you have purchased from this site but which one would be a good one to get?

3001 (good for pickup and other routes.)

3023 (good for routing the body shape)

#65 I will buy too.

#63 I will buy.

I'll take #58 and #56

Sent PM