CudBucket
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Posts posted by CudBucket
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Well, at 11 1/8" wide it's too slim for any regular body shape, and at 27" long, it s too short to flip match. But it is perfectly sized for some killer neck blanks.
(Shh, Frank, you idiot! Shut up and let the interest waiver and it can be YOURS!!)
Wait, I've said too much.
As for Canada being for sale, well the European Unio....Oh crap I've said too much again.
EVERYBODY LOVES EVERYBODY!
That's not true. In fact the guitar I'm building now is 12 1/2" wide and I cut it from a block of mahogany that was only 11 1/4". You just have to make it a two piece body.
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Finally got my pup templates done and routed the cavities. Site's updated too. The "router template" pages shows pics of the template making and there is a new page-link for the "pick-up cavity". Thanks.
Dave
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I hate making templates. Made at least three templates for the direct mount humbucker in the last few days. I'm close but my master needs to be tweaked. I will definitely have the body routed for pups by the weekend.
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Did you ever get this installed? If so, what size holes did you drill for the posts?
Thanks.
Dave
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I like it. Just wish the racing stripes were closer to the center so you didn't have to cut through them at the body waist.
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Definitely, build. If you want to build guitars, you should learn to build a neck.
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Actually, even though it's not my thing, I think that headstock works.
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Shroom, how did you finish yours? Is that info on your site?
Dave
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That's yours?! I remember when it was GOTM. It really is similar. You should see one of my early drawings. It's practically identical.
Dave
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Sorry about another question. My Wilkinson trem has two posts that measure 5/16" at the bottom. It's the smooth section of the post. Then the striated part of the post that grips the wood when it's inserted is slightly wider. I'm assuming that I should drill a 5/16" hole so that the wider striated section really grabs. Am I right?
Thanks.
Dave
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Thanks. I figured that after I posted. I also didn't realize that direct mount pups are adjustable without the springs.
Dave
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How deep is the route for a direct mounted humbucker? And how about the screw tabs? I notice those are usually route deeper. Thanks.
Dave
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Mushy, really? Have any pics? I'd love to see it.
Dave
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Updated my site with 25 pics today. The following pages have been added to:
1) Router Templates: I added pics illustrating how I made 3/4" thick MDF copies of the Stewart-MacDonald trem-templates I ordered. The thicker MDF templates work better with my longer pattern-bit and are easier to clamp.
2) Neck Pocket: I cleaned up the tear-out on two of the ferulle recesses and filled in the errant bolt hole.
3) Trem Cavity: This is a new page illustrating the routing of the trem cavity for the Wilkinson trem.
As always, thanks for looking.
Dave
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I've heard many similar myths about many types of glue. I don't buy it. I've use this stuff on large pieces of furniture years before I made this guitar. This stuff dries hard. If it creeps, it'll take 200 years before it matters.
Thanks for the kind words fellas. Hey Matt, that Impaler of yours is coming along great man! Get that thing finished will ya! I'm dying to see it finished.
Dave
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Beautiful. Absolutely inspirational.
Dave
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Come to think of it, why can't this thread get pinned? The explorer project that is pinned isn't even "in progress".
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I couldn't find a supplier of 1/8" diameter Mahogany dowels to use as a plug for the screw hole in my neck pocket so, I made my own. I cut a 4" long piece of mahogany that was about 1/4" x 1/4". I did this on the bandsaw. Then, I just chucked up into my drill press and "turned" it with some sand paper.
In a few minutes, I had a round dowel rod. Then, I took all the Mahogany dust I made and put it aside to make a filler paste with since I had two little bits of tear out near the neck ferulles.
Dave
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Very, very nice. Sounds great too.
Dave
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I have no problem with giving you a template, however before I do so I would like to gage the response that I get from the finished product as I may want to register the design and shape when finished.
Sorry to butt in, but....register your design shape? how does one go about doing that? And where does your design really differ from the tons of other strat 'extensions' out there?
I'm not trying to be nasty, I just don't see what's original about this design and why you think you can somehow trademark it.
Other question: is this wood already aged?
+1
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That was a beautiful flame!
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Have there been any updates on this project?
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The Mahogany double-cut is gorgeous. Tell me how you finished it!
Oil, etc.?
Dave
So Anyone Off Here Fighting For This?
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
Hey guys. I just got it for $22.50. Here's the link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MEWN:IT
What you do is draw the body halves (down the center lines) with the each halve's center line on the long eges of the block. In otherwords, the curves of the treble and bass sides are towards the center of the block while the center lines are toward the outside of the block. With 27" in length, there is MORE than enough room to offset the curves so they almost fit like a puzzle when drawn.
I've done this before and it works fine. It's in the book by Dennis Waring and David Raymond called "Create Your Own Electric Guitar And Bass".
Dave