CudBucket
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Posts posted by CudBucket
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More updates!
I've attached the neck and body. Updates are to the neck-shaping and neck-pocket pages.
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Yeah Algee, that's what I was getting at. I was wondering if I could wipe on a clear coat and polish. But if that guy in the tutorial can spray from a rattle can in 38 degree weather, I should be OK.
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Litchfield, whose the Kiss Army Kapitain? Me likey.
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That's a great tutorial! Thanks! I love that color too. How come you can't find those trade secrets through the links on the web site? At least I can't.
Dave
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Thanks everyone.
Dave
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Did a little more work shaping the neck today. Sanded to 80 grit.
www.downinfrontht.com
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It will likely be too cold to spray a finish on my project guitar when it's complete so is it possible to wipe and buff a high gloss finish on?
I'm thinking of using a dye and sanding sealer and then a clear coat. I would consider an oil finish as well as long as I can use a dye first. Obviously, I've got some finish-research to do.
Thanks.
Dave
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Made some progress and updated the site. Check out the "Cutting the Neck Pocket" and "Shaping and Tapering The Neck" pages.
Dave
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When I first saw your drawing I thought i was looking at a page out of my sketch book. I started with the idea of a Petrucci model Ernie Ball and then sort of shortened it. It looks almost identical to yours, so of course, I like it!
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It's beautiful. I'd love to know more about that router rig you've got too!
Dave
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Matt - another sweet design!
I hope you decide to build your own neck - it's really very rewarding and I'm sure you have the skills to do it. It may not be perfect the first time (but it might) - each time you build one, you'll get better at it. To make things easier, maybe just go with a pre-slotted and radiused board?
Anyway - for the pickup routing (you probably already know this but I'll mention it anyway):
Maybe someone has a template but if not, I use pieces of wood. Take one piece and make sure it has a flat edge or run it on a jointer if not. Saw the piece into 4 pieces. Drill holes into them (2 each) and counter sink. Draw out the pickup cavity on a piece of MDF and then place the pieces of wood to use them as guides for the router. Screw them down to the MDF and double check that everything is square. Then use a pattern bit and have at it (drill a hole to get it started).
The one thing to watch for when using this method is to be sure that the top edges of the 4 guide pieces are all flush. You don't want the router getting hung up on any edges that may be sticking up. Use a sanding block to even them up if needed.
This is the way I've been building my cavity templates. It doesn't always turn out right the first time though. I like to test each template before using them on the actual project - even if they look right.
Keep those pics coming!
That's how I make mine.
Dave
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I don't even know what to say because I don't believe knoxville is serious.
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Algee, I'm interested in seeing how your project turns out with that small headstock. I prefer small headstocks and was worried about mine being too small. So far, I've been able to do a rough layout of my locking Sperzels on it but if I can't in the end, I'll go with mini locking Grovers. Here's my headstock:
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Well I just drew it out.
A center line with my 1 11/16" nut width at one end. At the 24th fret position (19 1/8" away from the nut), I drew the neck width, 2 3/16". Then, 25.5" from the nut, I drew the 2 1/16" string spread at the bridge.
With me so far?
Back at the nut, I drew the high E and low E, each 3mm in from the edge of the nut. I ran that "string" line from the nut to each end point of the 2 1/16" bridge spread because that's where the centers of the the corresponding saddles would be.
It looks like I'll have plenty of room for the Wilkinson trem. However, now that I've seen the Hipshot trem, I'm thinking of still using it.
Dave
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If asking on this forum isn't a solution, then I screwed.
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Looking at my trem yet again, I noticed that the saddles were not straight when I measured them and got a spread of 2 1/32". When I straightened them and then re-measured, I got 2 1/16". Still, it's not 2 1/8 as advertised.
Now, my question remains, with my neck 2 3/16" at the 24th fret, which is 1/16" less than I should use for a 2 1/8" spread at the bridge, do I stick with the Wilkie trem or go with the Hipshot trem that has a spread of 2 1/16". The narrower spread (1/16" less than 2 1/8") might be a better match for my neck.
Thanks.
Dave
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I just realized that my neck is 2 3/16" at the 24th fret. Not 2 1/4". I was planning on using a Wilkinson trem that has a 2 1/8" string spread. Will the slightly narrower board be a problem higher on the neck? Should I find a bridge that has a 2 3/16" spread or just go ahead as planned?
I just realized why my neck is narrower at the 24th fret than 2 1/4". When I calculated the neck width at each fret, I used a string spread of 2 1/32" at the bridge. Why? Because when I measure it with my very accurate Starrett ruler, that's the spread I get from saddle center to saddle center. Not the 2 1/8" that is listed on the Stew-Mac web-site.
Looks like I'm OK.
Thanks.
Dave
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Thanks all. For those of you who have used them, what is your nut width? Mine would be 1 11/16".
Thanks again.
Dave
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Thanks Darren. Right now the pocket is 5/8" deep.
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Could I use a Hipshot string-thru bridge (hard-tail) with a 0 angle bolt on neck?
Thanks.
Dave
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Thanks folks. Jay, you're right: I need to cut a notch for the truss rod spoke and because I haven't done that yet, the neck is not sitting on the bottom of the pocket in those pics.
Dave
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Cut my neck pocket today. Check out the "Making the Body: Cutting the Neck Pocket" link.
Thanks for looking.
Dave
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litchfield, who is the girl in your avatar/sig? Is she wearing Ace Frehely makeup?
Bocaster looks great by the way!
Dave
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Looks nice. I especially like the shape of your neck heel.
Dave
Cud's Project Guitar
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
Ha! That's a mistake. I don't know why I wrote that. The nut is 1 11/16"
Dave