CudBucket

Dave, that is beautiful. Thanks for sharing and the inspiration.

Dave

Jay, I can't imagine even trying the freehand thing. I'd rather do something 5 times and get it perfect. Or at least as perfect as I can expect to.

Hey all. I got back to work today and made my neck pocket template. It's under the "Router Templates" page. Not a sexy update I know but it means I'll be cutting the pocket next.

Project Guitar Website

My 79 Les Paul Custom w/ Kahler.

What is recon stone? Great work btw.

Nice tools. Who's shop is that?

When you say you made the neck pocket jig by hand, how did you do it? Did you cut and file it by hand?

Thanks.

Dave

Thanks for all your help fellas.

Dave

I was trying something similar. My concerns are that while I've rounded over the heel corners at 1/4" radius, I question if it is perfectly symetrical. Therefore, if I made a template from building up straight edged material along the neck sides and back, it might not fit perfectly. That's why I'm going to try making a template by clamping the neck to the template material, outlining in pencil and then cutting and trimming to just inside the lines.

I'm at the stage in my project where I'd like to cut my neck pocket and would like some tips on getting the fit as tight as possible.

My thoughts are that I should use the actual neck to make a template and then route to the template. I tried that this past weekend but it didn't come out as good as I'd hoped so I'll try another template.

Any advice would be appreciated though.

Thanks.

Dave

www.downinfrontht.com

Oh! I knew that.

Matt, how are you cutting your neck pockets?

Thanks.

Dave

Well, after a week of being sick, I went back to work on the guitar for a little bit. I was hoping to make a hardboard neck heel jig but I don't like the way it came out. I clamped the neck to a piece of hardboard that I drew center lines on. Then, I clamped straight pieces of the hardboard along the sides and back of the neck to form a pocket for the router to cut in. The problem I ran into was that the bit seemed to cut a little closer than the bearing should have allowed. As if the cutter head diameter is bigger than the bearing. I'm surprised because it's a Rockler bit.

I'm going to try again by cutting the template by hand.

Dave

Heel radius? The back of the heel that sits in the pocket is flat. As is the pocket.

I'm at that point, or soon will be, with my project guitar. I've been considering making a jig like the one use by the Myka guitar maker. No shaper needed. A router will do. Take a look.

Neck Carve Jig

Dave

My Project Guitar

Axo, you'll need to have all the parts before you start so you can lay it all out. The truss rod and fretboard radius are two of the easier parts to building a neck. Slotting it are another story.

Check out my site: www.downinfrontht.com

I'm illustrating my first guitar project there. Maybe you can pick some info up there.

Good luck.

Dave

Looks nice stoo. Why didn't you grain fill the top? Just curious.

Thanks.

Dave

A. Is that much strength really necessary?

B. Many necks already may be that strong.

C. I wouldn't want to buy a guitar that smelled like feet.

Dave

I haven't worked on my guitar in over a week because I'm home sick. I can't even go out. Well, I'm enjoying the time away from work and being home with my kids. My next task will be to route the neck pocket and carve the neck back.

Hopefully I'll be able to work on it this weekend.

Dave

x, I'm glad you're using a pre-made neck. That fretboard you cut looked a little too narrow at the nut. Get a moisture meter and check the body. It looks like it may need to dry a little.

The Delta's not a bad table top but the stock blades are horrible.

Good luck. Looks good so far.

Dave

Hey Ford,

Before I got myself a jointer, I used a handplane. I have to tell you it was one of the most satisfying experience I've had in woodworking. The most important part was tuning the tool. You can find plenty of info on the web about that. Once the plane was lapped and the iron sharpened, it cut like a dream.

Another thing: some woodworkers I've spoken to prefer that there be a 1/32 gap in the center of joint. In other words, if you're joining 2 boards, the joint should close up at the ends and there should be a 1/32 cab in the center. The reason is that, a very small amount of clamp pressure will close the gap in the center and the joints at the end will have extra pressure and less likely open up.

Good luck.

Dave

Nice job! I love the birdseye maple.

BTW, I use super glue (CA type) to fill nots on furniture. Looks great and lasts. Also, keeps the not from popping out.

Dave

VanKikr, just checked out your thread. That looks awesome! I'm definitely going to look at using that method.

Thanks!

VanKirk,

Thanks for looking and thanks for the tip. I'm going to check it out.

Dave

The point where the strings break the saddles should be 25.5" away from the nut. The middle of the bridge is inconsequential.

That doesn't look like alot of wood for the D and G string tuners.