CudBucket

well a friend on neal mosers website made this and its exactly what im doing

simple and it wont show up too badly when its finished

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Exactly. I've done that on an Explorer body I started.

well a friend on neal mosers website made this and its exactly what im doing

simple and it wont show up too badly when its finished

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Exactly. I've done that on an Explorer body I started.

That's sounds good to me russ. No hard feelings.

I won’t sit back and be made a fool.

Well, that's your own fault. You would have been better off staying out of it. It wasn't an issue until you shot of your "mouth". You can't replace fact with rhetoric. Rich understood what I was getting at.

I would really like to show you how the saw actually makes the cuts, if you looked at the way it works you would see it is pretty slick (and beats the heck out of slotting by hand).

Peace, Rich

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Now, this is where I was hoping to get. I'd love to see that. I'd be open to even buying a CM saw or even radial arm to do it. I've had experience doing it by and hand and while I found it therapeutic, it was a pain in the ass.

Do you have any pics of your setup?

Thanks.

Dave

You seem to not think much of my ability to gauge how well this works (especially by the building a dresser comment).

Rich, when you made this comment, it gave the impression that you were insulted by me simply question the tool in this application when in fact, I was simply questioning it's use. Obviously, you're using it successfully and I was interested in knowing more about it since, well, as I said, I'd never considered a miter saw for the job.

I read all of your other replies to this thread, the only time you've asked any questions was when you said "are you kidding me?" and "insulted?." So I guess you weren't "...asking a simple question."

Maybe you should brush up on your reading skills. I was clearly questioning the use of the miter saw, little guy.

Sometims It pays to stop while you're ahead. For instance,...I'm stopping...now.

Hahahahahahhahahahahhahahahahahah! Now that is funny!

He said it's your opinion. He wasn't being rash. His workmanship was questioned, and that's insulting.

Are you kidding me? Insulted? I was asking a simple question! Jeez guys, let's not take ourselves so seriously OK? I think he over-reacted.

Plus, I wasn't talking about Harbour Freight caliber tools either.

Wow! That's beautiful!

You did that so fast and I'm still finishing a stupid solid body.

And bevel the interior arcs and edges like a blade.

I can't believe I just said that.

You seem to not think much of my ability to gauge how well this works (especially by the building a dresser comment). Fair enough its your opinion.

Dude, chill out. I was asking a simple question. As I said, the consensus with builders of furniture is that the miter saw has too much play in it to be used where extreme accuracy is needed. Note, I said, extreme.

If you're saying it works, I believe you. No need to take offense.

You need to watch this Wayne Guitar's video on how he uses a radial arm saw to cut out fingerboards, and is exactly the setup I plan on having in the next couple of months. 

Fingerboard Slot Cutting

I personally think that a radial arm saw, stew mac blade, and templates would be the ultimate setup.  Looks fast and accurate.

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Well, the radial arm saw is a different animal. I've seen that video.

Why would you say that? I have slotted many boards. The slots align with my templates. Templates are printed accurately. The cuts are square. I am really curious as to what you think would be innaccurate.

Peace, Rich

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I say that because in general woodworking, the miter saw is not considered as accurate as say, a table saw with a good aftermarket fence. I would think, in building guitars, where accuracy is more important than say building a dresser, the same would be true.

If it works for you, that's great. I was just pointing out that it seems contradictory to what I've read.

Dave

Wow, $1700 on a project!

Fryovanni, I would think that a miter saw wouldn't be accurate enough for boards.

Real nice. What's the base color?

And What Do you mean Kid, How old Are You Cud?

Haha. Alot older than you. I'm 39.

Links don't work.

Matt, you really need a camera, kid.

Most builders will tell you that you shouldn't start building until your design is finished. That would include knowing what components you are going to use and how they will layout. Therefore, progress on the actual guitar can't begin until the design is complete. At least, it shouldn't. Plus, having a completed design results in fewer aborted projects.

I have nothing against seeing other peoples designs but it shouldn't be mixed up with people who are actually building guitars. Anyone can draw a picture.

HAHAHAHAHA   You Dont Like That Do you CudBucket

!!METAL MATT!!

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You know it Matt. Drawing a picture does not a guitar make. I think Shakespeare said that.

I really like your designs. They're interesting. Much better than some of the stuff people come up with. Plus, it's not in the "In Progress" section!

Keep 'em coming.

It's good to see a real "in progress" post instead of another "hey look at this 'concept' design I drew. Isn't it cool?"

Very nice work so far.

Dave

They were taking a shot at Godin SD another memeber on the board.  He entered his guitar 2 months in a row.

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Ahem. idch took the shot. I just said it was cold.

I recommend you do, Algee. When I first tried to level, the clear would ball up under the sand paper due to the heat build up from friction. Mineral spirits eliminates that, evaporates fast and lubes better than water. And since it evaporates, won't swell untreated wood.

I read the same thing but for levelling with mineral spirits I think 3 or 4 days is fine. Final polishing, maybe 7-10 days. I know some folks wait a month but I think that's excessive.

Awesome! I read you s spraying Nitro. Any specific brand? How heavy are your passes too? That thing shines like a new penny;)

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Thanks. I've been using McFadden's. My first 5-6 coats were light. Mist-type coats. 45 minutes or so apart. Then the last 10 have been wetter, over-lapping stokes. They would go on glossier than the mist coats. Of those last 10 coats, the final 6 were a thinner solution with slightly less PSI (50 PSI down to 45 PSI).