Jump to content

MrCruel

Members
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About MrCruel

MrCruel's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Thanks for reply! Reason I was concerned about the new top is that it is possible, that the new wood is not as dry as the old one and as time goes by, humidity will probably change at some degree, so I was thinking if it was possible for woods to crack if they respond to changes differently. Bending new top would be very challenging, since this is my first project and I have to borrow most of tools also. That kind of job would also mean that I hace to sand off the finish and then maybe little bit more, so that there is actually enought space for new top? So that new top replaces the wood in top of body cavity also? I was planning to hide the seam under solid colour, it might look a bit funny though, because burst would come so much to the front side of the body, at least on forearm contour. I was just thinking to get guitar with attractive looks of figured body top, but it will be challenging if I do it either way. So, simpliest way would be that one you described: replacing wood in cavity and making solid finish. It's very much possible that I'll do that also.. and if I get it done right, maybe I'll some day do some touch up to my other guitar too.
  2. Hi! I finally got this little thing to my hands and asked for some ideas on how to repair this thing. What I got is Charvel 475 Deluxe, made in late 80's probably. Abused and in bad condition, some previous owner hit it to the wall for some weird reason. I took some pictures... Whole picture Back Cavity closeup Controls closeup front Control cavity and of course, front side of body has taken biggest damage, it has two cracks that go through the top of cavity. Also, there is some crack in neck joint, but I don't know yet if it is only finish that has cracked, because I haven't really done anything to the guitar yet. Neck joint There is smaller crack on the other side of neck joint also. In tremolo routing, there is also small crack in the wood itself, but I don't know yet if it is deep or does it have any meaning to durability or sound. Tremolo routing Otherwise, guitar seems to be in fairly good shape, neck has not warped as far as I can tell and I got most of the pieces of this puzzle: - Jackson licenced Floyd Rose, made by Schaller (needs few spare parts...) - Electronics, including pickups and mid-booster... Bridge pickup is Jackson J-50 BC, works as far as I know, haven't got the opportunity to check it though... one of single coils is broken, other should be OK. - Cavity covers Now, as for repair, someone represented the idea that the body finish could be sanded (or heated) away and front side of body could be planed down by approximitely 4 mm and some figured drop top installed to it, since there is no contours except the arm rest. Sounds good, and it could be finished with kind of stained cherryburst or something to fade the seam, but there is also some questions... 1. As far as I know, woods used in late 80's Charvels were good quality and well dried up. Also, time has passed, so wood should be dry. If I repair it with fresh drop top made of figured maple or birch, will it hold together? What I fear is that newer wood is not as dry and it will twist or crack during time. 2. If I do it, seam will be in the middle of contouring. Is it possible to hide that seam so that is won't be noticeable under finish and in use?
  3. Ok, something new info about the guitar... Exact model is most probably some variation of Charvel 475, made late 80's or early 90's, don't know for sure. Bolt-on neck, sharkfin inlays etc as I have told before. So, if I'm correct, woods used in this thing is basswood on body, maple neck and rosewood fingerboard. Friend told me that I might want to take off some wood from body because of weight, but I don't think it's exceptionally heavy weight. Friend compared it to his Warmoth with one-piece cedar soloist-body.. Same question stands - is it worth repairing/refinishing, and is SSL-7/TB4 or SSL-7/Invader-setup good for this? Another choice would be to get Charvel Model 4. I could get one for €450 in very good condition...
  4. I don't know yet, but I'll check that out as soon as I can.
  5. Thanks for info again. I'm not sure what model this Charvel is, but I'll try to get it home somewhere near future and take couple of pictures of it. So it would be easier to identify... It seemed like Model 4 for me, when I played it for a while, except that it comes with standard strat-style witch, not three separate mini-switches like Model 4. If I remember it correct. Remains to be seen...
  6. Yes, pro-series and combination systems are not too expensive, considering that they are complete sets with wiring, controls, jack etc. I could get close to it (or cheaper) with Kent Armstrongs (something like €110-€170 for pickups, depending on setup, plus wiring, controls etc), but I bet those EMG's are better sounding and less noisy ones. So, S/S/85-combination seems reasonable choice for me. Pro-series SL20 would be my choice, if my guitar had strato-like pickguard... Duncan-setup would consist of two SSL-7 Quarter Pounders and one TB-4, at price of €217,3. I'm under impression they are passive ones, but what should I do with volume and tone controls? Old ones are crap, but I have no idea how should I choose other parts if going for Duncans... (yes, I'm newbie.. ) I once played Jackson Professional series.. my friend bought one second hand and it was almost unused. Paid €300 for it. It was fun to play, althrough i couldn't get satisfactory cleans from it. But I have heard that quality of Jacksons have decreased from what they were back in 80's. I don't know if they are any better nowadays. At least cheap ones are crappy (even worse than my PS2, but USA Selected Series SL2H Soloist was actually very pleasant thing to play...) So, I probably wouldn't buy brand new Jackson, or used Jackson/Charvel if it's not from late 80's... sad thing, because they are really good looking guitars.
  7. Thank you for info I'm not sure if Duncans are really cheaper, I can get S/S/81-set (or S/S/85-set) at €260 (about $312), including switches, jack, volume/tone controls and wiring. Duncan Distortion Trembucker alone costs €110 and TB4 €89. So, it would be actually cheaper to get those EMG's. For the sound, I'm not sure if it's better to use 81 or 85 if I'll use EMG's (yes, it's alder). Same for Duncans, if I'm going to use them, I don't really know what single coils I should pair with TB4 or PA-TB2B. Honestly, I have no experience with EMG's or Duncans (probably ypu already guessed that ). I've mostly been playing with passive Jackson PS2.. it sucks. That's why I want to restore that Charvel.. It's easy and comfortable to play and I really need good quality instrument to use in gigs and in studio.
  8. Hi! I have been searching for some advice/ideas for my future project. Primary question is about puckups and elecrtonics on the guitar, but of course, other opinions are welcome too, because this will be my first project. I have an old Charvel, made in Japan -88 or -89. I don't know exact model yet, I haven't been able to get it here yet from my friend. Probably something like Model 4 or Model 6. It has sharkfin inlays, Jackson/Schaller double locking tremolo and Jackson active pickups in S-S-H configuration, with standard strat-style pickup selector-switch. Original colour is white. Guitar has seen some rought handling, it has some bruises in body and one pickup is dead. Other problems with electronics, when volume is turned all the way up, it starts to scream like insane (feedback). Tremolo has seen better days, but it can be fixed. Now, for initial ideas on what to do with it. I'm under impression that Charvels made in 80's are of good quality, both wood and labour. So, I intend to sand off old finish, put in something to fill bruises and make some additional contouring to get better acces to upper frets. Tthen refinish it in black (headstock is black, so they would match...). Neck will remain as it is. But then the electronics... I'm looking for heavy, warm and full distorted sound and then again, some beefy rich cleans. There should also be long sustain and I'm going to tune it to D. I was looking for EMG's (S/S/81), but they are expensive and I'm not sure if the guitar is really worth it (is it?). Duncans are even more expensive alternative. Jacksons are not too easy to obtain. However, I found store selling Kent Armstrong pickups, not too expensive. I have no experience with them, so I'm asking if they are worth trying? Are they noisy and how's their quality overall? Or should I just invest some more money on EMG's?
×
×
  • Create New...