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actually I believe most of the gibsons use a tenon joint rather then bolt on or neck thru. The tenon is much better then the bolt on but still allows you to replace the neck easier then a *edit* tenon joint. The neck thru is the best you will get for tone, the tenon is mid, and then the bolt on(tone wise). Ease of use would go bolt on, tenon(less glue area to remove), and neck thru being the hardest to replace if it can be done at all without completely dismantling the guitar. Basically there are trade offs. Personally the bolt on is probably the best way to go if you want the ease of being able to buy a neck and slap it back together if anything happens to it.

Really its not that hard. I didn't have a proper shop setup and other then a few small details my body is pretty much cimplete. I used a plunge router with 1/4 inch bit, a 1/4 trim bit, dremel tool for heavy sanding in tight spaces and light routing, and a bandsaw. The only other thing you will need is a crap load of sand paper and probably some chisels if you really want a carved top (or access to a dual action sander like I used). Really you can make a guitar with a jigsaw or hand saw if you please (cut won't be as straight with either so I would leave some sanding room to true up the edges).

Looking good. I want to do something similar, but I am wondering if a car amplifier will work to amp up the output from the modeling amp. I am considering using a Vamp 2 though. I have a couple computer psu's that should be adequate to power one car amp. Just curious to know if its workable.

Or it sounds like the grain should have been raised and sanded down until it didn't raise anymore. I am guessing the grain probably absorbed any oil or liquid in the filler spray and thats why it raised up(just a thought).

Jigsaws are definitely not the best way to go. I did a sample cut on some scrap wood and I was never satisfied with the results. I went out and bought a cheap Bandsaw at lowes for $87 dollars and remarkably it cuts 2" thick mahogany relatively well and straight for what it is.

well if you haven't bought the guitar I think you should check out the chambered les pauls since they are alot lighter then the originals. Also Warmoth custom makes bodies to the options you need meaning you can have the hollow out the inards of the guitar to lighten it up. Just my suggestion.

ya I was using the filler not the glazing putty. Also I used it to fill in some sanding marks and dings from the original. I may use it on the body if need be depending on if there are any deep goudges I missed or did to it in the rough phase.

well I need to make a run to some local stores so I will see whats availible. Not sure if I still need the neck because the damage was minor enough for me to do some repairs. Now the switch I still do need though.

I coated a neck in a really thin coat of bondo for repair jobs and it adheres really nicely to bare wood IMO. I don't think I will use it on the body of my guitar but for small dings on the neck it worked wonders. Now I just need to get ahold of some auto grade paints.

The resistor acts as a load and the electricity is transferred into heat energy and convects away. This is why high resistance in wires isn't good because then this can lead to the wires overheating and melting if there is to much load on them for there resistance.

Ok I want to get a Vamp pro and a pair of 12 speakers and mount them in a plywood enclosure i am going to build. The question is what kind of amps would I use to amplify the signal from the preamp of the Vamp into the 2x12's in stereo config. I am a newb to this so if it sounds wrong you will know why. I am trying to do this cheaply which is why I want to use the bamp head. Now I am even more curious to know if one could use an amiplifier from say a car audio system to boost the ouput from the preamp into the speakers. Also thinking of just using the X Vamp instead of the pro into a power amp and then into the cabinet. I figure the pedal would be easier to quickly change effects with and also cheaper then the vamp pro.

still looking for a neck. I attempted to build one, but I just don't think I can pull it off with my current level of skill. I am going to wait until I get a few templates to make a neck so I don't waste wood.

because I am short on money and I had lots of scrap mahogany I am attempting to make my own neck. I am making it in two pieces. The main stock, and the headstock and I will join them together. Its not the best situation, but the longest piece of mahogany I had was about 20" long so I had to do it this way. The fretboard from the old neck wasn't damaged so I was able to salvage her. I might upoad some pictures of the neck in progress after I get some more of the general shape down.

lol at the toilet seat idea. Anyhow how do these guitars made with synthetic materails sound in the end. I have seen acrylic guitars, but one can only wonder if they are more of a show piece then a quality instrument.

The tuners sound good then, but not really in need of the d-tuna at this point. Mostly I am trying to keep the cost down so anything extra will have to wait until I get the basics. For now to complete the guitar I need to either attempt a neck repair( I have the stuff so I will try it and see if it can hold up for a month or so until I get some more cash flow rolling in), I need another EMG active pickup preferably the 81 for the bridge, and the tuning pegs to complete the hardware aspect of this project.

Well I am looking more for the locking tuners only because I have a floyd rose in the guitar and a roller nut instead of the typical locking nut. I don't plan to completely dive the strings so the Locking tuners should be adequate to keep it somewhat in tune.

To be honest I was in the process of making an mdf guitar out of scrap but I'd rather not comment on its current status hehe. I am curious to know how it will sound because of the density of the wood being so high I would think even low quality MDF would have to some good sustain.

Thanks for the tip on the sanding. Ya I was using a power sander to shave the wood down, but I haven't done the final sanding yet until I finish with the layout work.

Tradegy has struck. The neck I was going to use was damaged in the process of removing the fretboard. Even when heating the glue the wood was really dry and it cracked very easily so I am now in the market for a new neck.

I was in the process of removing the fretboard from the neck and everything was goign smoothly and the fretboard cracked. When this happened I somehow managed to also crack the neck itself so I just gave up on it (ain't much of a lose at 20 bucks for the neck). I am looking for a 3x3 style neck to fit my les paul styled project. It has to be the bolt on style neck as well. If possible I am looking to buy tuners as well such as grover, sperzel, or schaller locking tuners preferably either gold, black, or two tone black and gold. I have some stuff for trade if anyone is interested. I'd appreciate any good offers since I am trying to keep the total cost down. A few other things I am looking for are a les paul style switch, floyd rose routing templates, and pickup templates. 16 x 18.2gb ST118202LC scsi hard drives with 80pin conneters( got as factory refurbs and haven't used them yet so there going as is). Largish bird cages for those who are into birds.One is suitable for a cockatiel and has a stand. The other would be good for smaller parrots like african greys I suppose. Couple CPU waterblocks for anyone into highend pc cooling lastly for anyone into RC I have a TXT-1 that I am parting out or will sell whole minus the speed controller(first thing I sold to buy some new tools), and I have batteries, chargers, spare parts, e-maxx tranny(2-speed), 3ch remote,etc. I am also willing to sell this stuff if you want anything, but don't have what I am looking for. Pictures are availible upon email request at sephiroth2029@aol.com.

Thanks I will have to try that once I get her wired up and see how she sounds and such. One thing I did see is house of kolor has Kosmic glo powder additive, but at 30-40 dollars for 4oz of the stuff I just can't justify it since thats about what I paid for the 20"x16 slab of mahogany with a extra piece 8"x 19" the guy included with it(by the way I got the wood off an ebay distributor who was offered great services).

Ok I fixed the links now, and I see they aren't duds after all. Anyhow I thinking I can get something similar in the paints finish, but I want to use a UV auto paint that is thin enough to shoot through my airbrush. The problem is where do I get small samples of auto UV airbrush paint in similar colors without buying pints, quarts, or gallons of the stuff (want to use an airbrush because of the greater amount of control you have with it over a spray can. I already have worked with the duplicolor black paint I am going to use for the base coat, and I have achieved a really nice gloss finish on curves and such on prepainted metal so I am thinking that the paint will also work really well for this application as well. I just remembered I might know someone who has a computerized paint mixing machine so I might give him a call and see what he can do for me. All I need is maybe 8oz of the black or so, 6oz of white, and maybe 2-3oz of the two blue tones or three I will use to get that fade (any distributors give out small free samples lol). Edit- I seen some Createx automotive airbrush paints for 5 bucks a bottle that are labled Fluorescent paints. I am just wondering if these would infact fluoresce under exposure to black light.

Ya to be honest I been thinking about it more and more. It does seem a little largish to me as well. I am going to get a piece of 1/16 aluminum for a pickguard that will hide the imperfections in the wood I discovered and also will add to a theme I am going for. After the bridge I am going to have the metal strip come to a lionheart griever (such as in this picturehttp://www.fantasysquare.com/store/images/...laces_Small.jpg . It may seem really dumb to you guys but I have this idea of an FF8 lionheart theme. The guitar will be made high gloss black base coat, and then along the edge of the contours I plan to paint it dark blue moing to lighter blue, and finally fading into white which fades into the black(somethign like on this sword from FF8 http://www.ffsverige.nu/ff8/vapen/bilder/lion_heart.gif. This may be even tackier yet but I was going to put some leds along the neck while I have it apart to change the inlays to a cleaner white material or possible use arcrylic for the inlays and haze them then add leds behind them on a switch. I may be getting a little ambitious, but I am taking my time and drawing up my sketches as I go. Thanks for the input so far because it helps me see flaws that I might be to proud to miss. Basically you guys are helping me proof read the paragraph. *edit* sry the links I provided in this post don't work and its late so I will find some new ones tomorrow for you guys. I am also going to sketch out the layout onto a template and color it in to test out the look.

The pictures don't quite to it justive plus I have some more sanding to do before its ready for me to shot on some sealer. The neck is straight to the bridge if anything the body its quite as symetrical. It could alo be the camera angles cause I took the pics holding the camera at odd positions.

Ok heres some of the pics of the progress so far. As you can see its influenced by the les paul, but not really close since I did freehand the design myself. Also the top curvature was just something I wanted to try and I did it with a pneumatic dual action sander and 60 grit disks. The guitar claimed a one victim so far. My poor 1/4 router bit snapped when I was routing out the electronics bay lucky me it stayed in the wood instead of shooting out at mach 1. Mind you this is my first guitar so I know its no where near being great, but I have learned alot and any future projects should turn out much better. The neck isn't the best since its just a bolt on Carlo rebelli 24 3/4 scale 3x3 neck. The fingerboard is roosewood, but I am not 100% sure what the neck is made of. This will be a temporary neck until I find some nice size pieces of ebony,bloodwood, and some nice bright white colored maple(I want a big thick piece of bloodwood to run right down the ceter with a white maple on either side and then the ebony on either side of that). For pickups I should have an EMG-85 coming in the mail, and I am looking to find a emg-81 for the bridge. As you can see I went with the tremolo style floyd rose bridge which seems to be one of those hate or love pieces of hardware. If I really don't like how it turns out I will fill in the holes with scrape mahogany and go for a TOM bridge. I also got some of the cover plates for the bridge, switch cavity, and the jack plate, but they all still need drilled and touched up. Thanks for looking and please add any suggestions as you feel needed. Here are the guitar pictures to date. I will update as I get more of it done.