thebadger

Finally finished, went with a wipe on poly finish. Not too happy with the finish actually but everything else I am digging. I may refinish it at some point. Here are some pics.

Quick update, messed up the ziricote fingerboard so I now using a rosewood one. Still with the sycamore binding, also switched to a rosewood headcap. Other than that things are going good. I will post some pics later. Trying to figure out which way I want to go on the finish, I am for sure going for a natural clear finish. Here are my options. 1-Nitro lacquer in cans 2-Nitro on the body and tru oil the neck 3-Tru oil the whole guitar What do you guys think? I have not really messed with any oil finishes before. I do like the feel of an oiled neck, also my last guitar I used the rattle can nitro and didn't really dig it. Any other oils or wipe on finishes you guys would recommend?

Thanks, I usually just do the overlaping joints unless I was using a multi ply binding then I would use mitres.

Got the wood for the fretboard yesterday, pretty much finished it up. Needs some sanding still. Also trying to decide if I should inlay fret markers or not. I have small white MOP diamonds I was going to use. The board is Ziricote and the binding is flame sycamore.

Thanks, the horns are not symmetrical...the bass horn is shorter than the treble. It must just be the pics.

Starting on a new build, this one is going to be my take on a Mosrite. I traced a Mark V from the 60's then I brought mine in about 1/8". Just started on the body so far, shaped it then I took my first swing and a carved top. I have never done it before and after using a cove bit in my router table I did the rest by hand with cabinet scraper/rasp/file/sandpaper. Here are what the specs are going to be Claro Walnut body Birdseye maple neck with bubinga/maple/purpleheart heel Ziricote fretboard and head cap Flame sycamore binding on the neck Recessed tune o matic for the bridge w/ string thru. Have not decided on the pickups and wiring yet. Going to just use a clear Nitro finish. Here are some progress pics. http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj275/t...dger138/4-6.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj275/t...dger138/3-6.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj275/t...dger138/2-7.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj275/t...dger138/6-2.jpg

Ok, this thing is finally finished. It turned out ok for the first guitar out of my garage and not under my former school's guidence. The string ferrules on the back aren't as straight as I would like. I know now that the next time I should use a template. Here are the specs. - Mahogany Neck w/ Bubinga heel - Mahogany body w/ bookmatched flame maple top - Rosewood fretboard,headcap,knobs,truss rod cover - Flame Maple Control Cavity cover - Amber stain on the maple pieces, clear nitro over the whole guitar - Grover tuners,recessed gotoh tuneOmatic,string ferrules - Recessed dunlop strap locks - Cream plastic binding & pickup rings - Seymour Duncan Phat Cat (Neck P/U) - Rio Grande Crunchbox (Bridge P/U) - 2 Volume Controls 1 Tone, all CTS pots The control cavity cover is stained flame maple with nitro over it, sheet metal epoxied on the back to use magnets instead of screws to hold the cover on.

Just about finished with my latest build, did all my wetsanding and have started buffing when all the of the sudden I noticed the lacquer starting to split/crack right along the glue seam on the back of the guitar. It is two piece mahogany with a maple top everything glued with tightbond. Looking through the finish and at the actual seam in the wood it looks okay and the body doesn't seem to be warping or coming loose but the finish right there is cracking. What the hell? What should I do, is this going to get worse? I am sure I could sand it down and fix it aesthetically but will it come back?

so you can have a tune 0 matic without having the neck angle. the guy I am building it for likes the tune 0 matic look but not the strings that far from the body, likes a more parallel/flat string profile like a tele or strat.

Thanks, 1/4". I couldn't really find a "standard" depth for routing recessed tune o matics. I just did some measuring and everything seems to be lining up...well except my back string ferrules!!! haha

update, neck glued in, pickup cavities routed, recessed tune o matic routed, electronics holes are drilled. only woodworking stuff left is routing control cavity and inlay on the headstock and input jack hole drilled. one sucky note....drilling string ferrules sucks...haha. it was my first time doing it and the top turned out ok but the back is a bit off. sucks.

one bit of concern right now though, the truss rod worked normally before gluing on the fingerboard but now it is not wanting to move much either way. I wrapped it in saran wrap and only dabbed a bit of silicon on the ends. this is worrying me a bit, I have not yet put too much elbow grease in turning it. I know that one of my builds kinda had the same problem and then once I kinda forced it it worked normally

About to glue in the neck today, then once that is set up will do the pickup cavities and the bridge stuff. I am going to do a recessed tune o matic with a string through. I already did the recess for the dunlop straplocks. Kinda on the home stretch now. P.S. the neck is straight...for some reason in that photo it looks crazy bent..haha.

quick update, haven't been able to work on it too much but as of tonight headstock is shaped with the rosewood headcap glued on, I also bound the headstock. Truss rod channel is done. Started carving the neck, pretty much roughed in, just need to fine tune it. Neck pocket routed. Try to post some pics tomorrow.

Just a flat top, the maple top is only 1/4" inch thick. I have yet to tackle a carved top guitar.