Marzocchi705

that relic is SWEET! Looks pretty much exactly like my guitar teachers exept his was a Daphne blue base coat and it is actualy from the 80's! Nice job!

Seriously one of the coolest things i have ever seen on here. !

Mmmmm, very nice!! I Realy like how it turned out. One of the only trans green guitars i have liked the look at.

Nice work!

+1 on the Ibanez WD7, fantastic pedal. Ive got mine where i want it and i never move it, but if i wanted to i could make it sound differant. Cant do that with a standard crybaby now. Also the build quality on it is insane, ive thrown mine in and out of cars and studios (by accident of course...) and the thing is still solid. Great product.

I have never played a Morley or a Budda so i cant comment on them.

Just make a neck jig as per myka. Do a search for neck jig and you should be able to find it and instructions on how to use it.

+1

brass is much softer than steel, not somthing you want to make a screw out of.

2vol, 2 tone LP style config on the body, plus a 3 way toggle to swap Pu's (if its a 2 bucker guitar) with a mini to coil tap the neck. On a 3 single i just have Vol, 2tone strat style. I generaly change my mind where i want toggles every once in a while.

On bicycle headsets, they call that index steering. When you turn the handlebars, you can feel little detents in the steering, when the balls drop into the next worn spot in the races. High end bicycle head sets use ball bearings at the top, and tapered roller bearings at the bottom, to avoid that. In highly loaded, small excursion joints, they make special precessing bearings that move freely in one direction and then skate a little in the other direction, to distribute the work over more balls/rollers, and work different parts of the races. Naturally, precessing bearings are much more expensive.

Only problem with that observation is if you have little indents as you call them your headset was poorly set up in the first place. My headset is one of the strongest (and one of the cheapest) around (its an FSA PIG if you want to check out my claim) I never notice dips in steering acuracy. Also never use bearings in a race, all that does is make you use less bearings, without a race you can get at least 4 more (depending on the size or ball used)

Have you thought about retro fitting a bike hub cone into your system? I just thought of an idea that will use the axel of a front hub in a bigsby-esque system. I will draw somthing up later as im just of to work.

http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/bodies/tele....ion=tele_hollow

on that page there is a pic of how warmoth do it.

That should atleast give you a referance point to work from.

I say be called MR TACO....

just see my sig for my reason

Go and get yourself some thicker material, use the template you have to transfer it in to the new material and just think of it as good practice handeling a router. Shims in this case are NOT a good idea, as you have said if they slip, your buggerd. even though you will have it clamped down well things can slip from time to time. Yeh, if you get some 3/4" material you should be able to work with that.

Ok, that clears up alot. Just print out the standard pick gaurd shape then draw on what you needon to the shape. It should just flow out longer, i did one simelar for my SG-esqe body (that i never finished), then just transfer it onto your chosen material. Remember to chamfer the edge for that professional look.

Well do that then... Why do you need to make it longer? its already long enough to cover the Brige PU's ears.

What has football got to fo with amps? (thats a joke btw, oh never mind)

What do you mean by SPL all my googling came up with was Scottish Premier League.

http://musegear.fobbedoff.net/

On that site look the bomber manson, then have a look at the black one, the black one has a cool touch/proximity pad that controles a digitech whammy. its very robotic looking i think.

I tryed a UV the other day and honestly my RG1572 plays just as good, with a pickup change it would sound identical (or near enough) not that the RG sounds bad its just slightly treble-y for my tastes. And RG3217 could be somthing to look at, but its a hardtail.

If i had $250 i would but i dont, i dont even have enough for one (and my epi realy needs new PU's)

+1, adding a dowel wont make the joint any weaker and for the whole what 10 seconds it will take to drill each one i think its worth doing. Dowel joints are nice and easy and that stong glue you have will ensure a tight joint that will last. And post pictures when your done

Ooooh, what a burn. I agree though, that shape is gad awfull. If you want evil get a Moser or a BCR, or get Mr. Matt to build you one

If you can get a decent picture of one from the internet you can make your own, you already know one dimension (nut width) so you can scale the pic according to that. Then print it out, transfer to your template material and route.

Huh? If im not mistaken that is Johns personal guitar prototype. They make a JP model but its 25.5" scale has a trem and is a bolt on. This is 24.75" scale hardtail and neckthru...

May be wrong tho, not a huge EB or JP fan

Im pretty sure that guitar will be trans, what else would be the point in inlaying a top like that?

Ibanez have a 7-string Edge, i have one on my RG1527. Nice trem.

Change the actual image size, not the file size. Use Photoshop or somthing simelar to get best results (dont use MS Paint, it make images realy grainy)

Pots are the same, you make it a 'tone' pot by adding a capaciter across a pair of the lugs (see your own shematic for that).