Daniel Sorbera

$14?

Whats the moisture% of that piece?

I put a 2mm thick piece of ebony in the scarf joint and when the neck is carved it looks like that.

What was the amp/pedals used?

The body is perfectly level around the top edge, so binding would work just fine.

Yeah in case you didn't notice, about half way through the build the customer decided he wanted something totally different, and normally I'd say no, but since I wanted this guitar for myself anyway I just went along with it. So after that point I threw the seymour duncans in there and changed the specs to what I wanted.

The veneer was 2mm you can go thinner or thicker to change the look at the back.

Quantum Mechanics aint exactly light reading.

I'm thinking of redoing the color in a deep blue or maybe the original idea of green.

Step away from that guitar! You want a blue guitar? Just build another one!

Seriously, the red looks very good, I like it.

Actually I have 5 in the works right now that will be mine, "show" guitars if you will. So I may leave this one alone. Only time will tell.

I just realized I never posted the finished pictures in this thread. Sorry, when I post some of the guitars on here I usually forget to go back and post pictures. It's been real busy around here lately.

I actually only have a few pictures of this guitar, but I'm thinking of redoing the color in a deep blue or maybe the original idea of green. I'm not 100% happy with the red, it looks great and all, but since it's my guitar I can have it whatever I want and I just love blue/green guitars. Maybe even a nice carriburst is in order.

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You also might look into renting instruments, or borrowing some from people you know.

That board looks anything but flat and level. It needs to be perfectly flat, level, and even, or your not going to get much playability out of it.

Thanks guys glad you all like it!

So where do you guys buy your bolting hardware? What are those things called and where can I get some?

All the way up to 12000?

I should've done it to my board before fretting. I might tape it off after I'm done, polish the frets, then tape the frets and hit the board with some mesh, before lemon oiling it. Looking good, Rick!

Drop the lemon oil and your good.

Of for sure dude. Micromesh is the only way to go.

There is no way I can make it, but take lots of pictures and say hi to Myka for us!

I've never had an issue with fret access. So I guess I'm in the same boat you are.

I would make it possible to remove the whole deal just in case it craps out on you down the road.

If I'm worried about a spot (ie the end of a horn with figured brittle wood) I'll use the spindal sander in that area.

I've had good results with danish oil on necks with 0000 steel wool.

Thin guitar does not at all = thin tone.

You have to remember that an electric guitar is indeed an acoustic instrument. The electric pickups have to sense the strings, and the wood construction will indeed change your tone quite a bit. But once your amp is cranked and the gain is turned up the effect is lessened.

There is no reason whatsoever that a very thin guitar wouldn't sound good. It might sound a bit different than what your used to, but better or worse would be in the eye of the beholder.

That being said, I've never played a blackmachine first hand, but I've heard nothing but good things about them and hope to play one sometime.

I call it the Nova

This was the first of this new double cut shape. Hope you like!

Specs:

Swamp ash body

Maple neck

Ebony fingerboard

Schaller tuners

Seymour Duncan humbuckers

It's very light on the shoulder and has great note clarity and sustain.

I dunno I've seen better honestly. But Perry is right about turning a profit even with the prices that high.

Thanks for all the responses guys, looks like it might be worth me investigating car body shops as acrylic seems to be the least favourable option. 3 Cans of nitro (primer, colour, clear) comes to £45, (about $90) over here, so i'll see if a bodyshop can come close to that.

Wow nitro rattle cans are that expensive over there? BTW your going to need between 5-9 cans of clear, not 1.

Scuff sanding is quite different than the final wet sanding they are talking about here.

FWIW I had decent (not anything like the 2 part stuff I spray now, but decent) results with the minwax single part poly in a rattle can. It cures in less than a week and is much harder than acrylic in a spray can.

Very nice indeed. I like the thicknesses of the laminates that you choose. It looks really good.