Daniel Sorbera

Its amazing how far some people will go just to build a guitar for someone. Every single one of those $400 guitars will haunt you in the future.

and why is that? you always have to bring me down.

Because in the future you will realize those guitars that you have to give away are not up to standards and you will have a bunch of instruments going around with your name on them that are less than ideal to say the least.

If someone is not willing to pay premium prices for a custom guitar maybe that builder shouldn't be selling.

Price lowered to $280 + shipping

I'd also trade for an 80GB zune.

Also whats with the acoustic in the background of the first picture? Is that one of your creations?

Very cool. I like the look of that top

I just don't use my psp as much as I thought I would so I'm selling because I'm in need of some extra cash.

It is in perfect condition, the battery still holds a full charge, there are no scratches on the unit, and all buttons/functions work perfectly.

It's the limited edition silver psp and it comes with

silver psp

wall charger

1GB memory card

psp carrying case

7 of the highest rated psp games including,

Syphon Filter: Dark Mirror

Syphon Filter: Logans Shadow

Metal gear solid: Portable ops

Ratchet and Clank: Size Matters

Jenne D'arc

Final Fantasy tactics: The war of the Lions

Daxter greatest hits

All games come in original cases and include manuals. The discs and cases are in perfect condition with no scratches or wear marks.

Everything included is $480 or so if you were to buy it all right now.

I'm looking to get $300 + shipping.

PM me if your interested.

You can use a trussrod that's treaded all the way... most home made trussrods are... For your other question about the casing... You can just put it in and secure it with the wood filler but often some kind of sleeve is put over the trussrod in order to stop it from rattling inside the neck... Besides that, an additional sleeve will prevent the trussrod itself from being glued in the neck by any access glue from the wood filler. I use an ethernet cable for this, I remove the inner wiring and just use the outer mantel (is that english?) ... It fits the trussrod I use perfectly...

Grz Arjan

I think the word your looking for is casing, or even material would work there.

You better move that BMW before you spray anything... Your going to get overspray all over that nice white paint.

first of all, it needs a paint job... second of all, no overspray has ever hit my car, i always get it far enough away. i don't think a tiny drop of paint is gonna travel that 20ft expanse, do you?

Actually you'd be surprised, although my post was more of a joke than anything.

That guitar looks great! 2 days...man that movin. Looks like you have quite a nice stash of black limba leaning in the background there. I can't wait to see what thats for!

I bought all that form Rich (Thanks again!). You won't have to wait long to see those turn into guitars.

This one is for a friend of mine. Started work on it two days ago and the box is already closed and binding is going on today.

It has a 15 7/8" lower bout and is 4 1/4" thick.

The fingerboard will be padauk and it will have fishman electronics.

pic2

pic3

pic4

Here you can see the design Chris burned into the center strip.

You better move that BMW before you spray anything... Your going to get overspray all over that nice white paint.

How do you go about attaching the bolt to the neck heel with that butt design since you lose 3/4" of thickness taking off the tenon?

So what type of finish do you use? and glues? Hows the dry time building that fast?

Eh? Just do a butt-jointed bolt on neck. Drill from the outside in, using a new, sharp bit. Stick a bit of scrap to the inside of the block with double-sided tape to prevent some of the blow out, and you're fine.

So your saying just slap the neck on there with a butt-joint and bolt? Why not do a mortise and tenon bolt?

Is the peavey classic 20 gone already?

For some reason I read it as 1st and 2nd frets. I must be really tired. In that case it *does* sound like a relief problem. Check out Frets.com for some really good setup instructions.

If it's only buzzing on the first and second frets and the open strings are fine the first thing you should check is fret level. It sure sounds like a fret level problem to me, not a relief or action height problem.

I would personally give ANYTHING with bent sides side tapes. No question. You may not think it's crack prone... but that's not to say you won't one day sit down with keys in the wrong pocket and BAM, crack with nothing to stop it from spreading.

I'm lookin' to build a reso (round neck) at some point so I can rock out like Eric Sardinas!

Chris

+1

I've seen it happen before. It's not a pretty sight.

Yes limba is porous like mahogany, the pores aren't quite as big, but very close.

You could pretty much bet a hard maple/bubinga laminate would be very stiff and have a very crisp tone.

Personally my favorite neck construction is a 5 piece flamed western maple and ebony.

I don't have any experience with stringing classical guitars, but you should check out this Link. Maybe you did something wrong, it's always good to be informed.

I think necks have a significant influence on tone; they're the thinnest bits of wood, lots of direct string tension applied to them, so the way they vibrate will certainly filter the strings.

Hi Mattia,

I'm not arguing against the neck having an effect. In fact I am sure the neck wood has some effect, but there are so many other variables, I think it's probably minimal and that we make too much of the tonal differences.

Is it a bolt on, set neck, or neck through. Does the neck have carbon fiber rods inserted, is it 1 9/16" at the nut or 1 3/4" and is it .75" deep or .8" deep, are all factors that will have an effect. And the big issues other then the player are really pickups, strings, the amp. Heck, I'd bet the size of the cap on the tone control and the Pot being 250k or 500k will probably have more effect than the 10 or 15% difference in density or stiffness between maple and mahogany. And even among one wood, from one tree, there's variations in stiffness and strength.

Now it may be that you or Perry have actually build two identical guitars other than the neck wood. I wouldn't be surprised if Perry has. But I haven't, and I haven't seen any data that would make me think wood species is a huge factor on tone. I basically think choosing a neck wood based on 3 S's and one C makes more sense: strength/stiffness/stability and cosmetics.

Best regards, and please don't take this as argumentative. And thanks for your advice on all those other things where it's helped me.

Regards,

Todd

PS) Plus one on the feel issue though, like Rick says below. My friends tele has an oiled mahogany neck. Feels nice. Not super slick, but nice.

Actually you should listen to Mattia on this one. In my experience the neck woods plays a substantial role in the guitars sound.

Obviously there are many factors impacting the sound of an electric guitar, but you cant overlook the most important ones (and the neck is important) when building for a particular sound.

So back on topic, I would suggest black limba for a mahogany replacement. It works just like mahogany and has a very similar feel and pore structure. I agree with Mattia that both limba and mahogany feel great with no pore filling and just oil.

You could always find a black dome knob and add a white dot.

I voted for the Multiscale Custom. It's classy, yet simple, and the finish looks really cool. As always all the guitars were excellent. That acoustic looks very nice.

Any Post that is not an entry will be deleted, feel free to start a new thread to discuss any guitar entered this month

I totally agree with that one. It needs to be there, or the GOTM thread will get really cluttered really fast.

Make sure Your Guitar has a Name or Nick Name as well

Personally I think this one has to go. I think it's hard for some people to come up with nicknames for their guitars (myself included). So if they don't put a nickname I think it would be best to refer to the guitar by the builders user name.

Is there a rule about how many guitars I can enter? On we go...

I think it should be limited to 1 guitar per person per month. But thats just me.

Wait a sec.... since when was PG.com's GOTM allowing entries from people who purchased guitars? This was not built by you, but by Shamray guitars. This 'competition' is designed to showcase the members talents, not what they paid someone else to do. It cheapens the entire 'competition'. Otherwise, why dont we see 25 Les Paul's in here every week?

I think to enter a guitar into GOTM it needs to have either been built by the poster, or modified in some way.

Now the problem is that it's really hard to judge what counts as modified.

So that there is no miscommunication I think the poster needs to say exactly what parts of the build they did (if they only changed the pickguard, or if they built if form scratch and anything in between)

I think we need to make sure we don't turn GOTM into a "real" contest with tons of rules. It needs to stay fun and friendly or we lose a lot of whats great about this place.

Amazing guitar. I'm loving the pearl white finish

I sent you a PM with a question.

Well it's all done. Sounds great, plays great, and it feels great. That swamp ash makes for a very light guitar. I'll get Chris to take some pictures ASAP.