Daniel Sorbera
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Posts posted by Daniel Sorbera
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You can quickly check the intonation by fretting a string at the 12th fret and seeing if it plays in tune or sharp/flat.
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My grandfather passed away and we inherited his wood shop. I didn't know anything but the basics of woodworking and I had just started learning guitar so I thought it might be cool to put the two together.
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Unfortunately this morning the cancer won the battle and my Grandma drew her last breathe the day after having one last happy Christmas with her family.
Rest in peace.
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SA Auditorium acoustic
Crown of thorns rosette inlay
Black limba back/sides
Cedar top
Fishman Matrix Infinity pickup system
Rosewood fingerboard
Rosewood binding with purfling (on headstock as well)
"Broken glass" fingerboard inlay (Abalone material used)
Semi gloss finish
Click Here for in progress pictures.
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Very nice. Except the green is screaming out for gold hardware
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I listed this a while ago but I cant find the post to bump it, so here it is again.
For sale is a hand built 6 watt tube amp with 1 6v6 output tube and 1 12AX7 preamp tube. It's single channel with,
Master volume
Gain
Bass
Mid
Treble
On/off
standby
It's made with the best components available with real caps/resistors/pots and beefy hammond output/input transformers (very important for good tone) and is hand wired. It sounds so much better than the circuit board poo that you get with massproduced amps.
It's built into a epiphone valve junior cab and has the stock epiphone speaker (actually a weber 8" ceramic magnet branded epiphone)
It's a pretty simple no frills amp that gives great tube tone. It has a cleaner tone but will drive when pushed. Where it really shines is with pedals and if you have a good overdrive pushing the front end the result is sonic bliss.
Price lowered to $250+shipping for christmas (more like I need the money for christmas)
A quick picture.
(for an extra $50 I will throw in the extention cab pictured below the amp)
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Sounds like your asking your guitar to do things that are physically impossible. Raise up that action until it stops buzzing, and you'll be good to go.
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Same as DC Ross here, except instead of a flap sander I use a Foredom tool with a "power rasp" attachment for the initial rough carve.
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I might have screwed up the relief because I tightened the truss rod when I put heavier strings on. It doesn't seem any straighter than when it had 9s on it though.
99% sure that is your problem.
Press down on the first fret and the last fret and look under the string at around the middle of the neck. There should be a *very* small space between the string and the frets. If it's touching, your need to loosen up the truss rod, if there is a wide gap you need to tighten it until there is a very slight gap.
And to check if your nut is the issue just put a capo on the first fret to take the nut out of the equation. If it's still buzzing, it isn't the nut, the nut only affects open strings.
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Gettin' a little high and mighty these days Daniel?
Chris
uhhhhh not really. Saying what I said has nothing to do with the build quality of the guitars entered, which as I said, is great. It just means that none of them were quite up my ally.
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This was the first month in a long time where I didn't really like any guitar. They were all great of course, as always, but none really tickled my fancy like they usually do.
I voted for Kenny. His seems like one I'd like to play.
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Does 1/2" count as long?
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Just in case there is any lingering confusion, LMI is still good, so don't hesitate to order from them.
+1 to that.
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Hmm thats weird. Maybe they went out of business and no one bothered to take down the website?
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Black limba would be a good choice, but then again everyone around here knows about my obsession with the stuff
Swamp ash would be a good choice too I think, nice a balanced with good midrange.
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Where are you located? I might be interested in the cabinets and jet sander if your withing driving range...
Looks like somewhere in the north east since you have a basement, but I figured I'll ask anyway.
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I'll take the jaws fret press.
PM sent.
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I was planning to do the channel, but got carried away and in a building spree glued the wings on before I did. So I guess it's through the output jack for me.
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I'm currently building my first neck-through electric and I've run into a bit of a problem.
Usually on our set necks and bolt ons we use a really long drill bit and go from the neck pickup route into the bridge pickup route. But since the neck (in effect) is already glued in it makes it impossible to do it that way.
So how do you guys do it?
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If I do remember correctly, aren't neo speakers supposed to produce a flatter frequency response?
Or I could be pulling that completely out of the air. It's happened before.
What's the difference in weight between a regular 12" and a neo 12"?
I think it's more like they can have more lows and more highs so the frequency response looks flatter if you look at the curve.
IIRC neo speakers are louder, lighter, and have a slightly more "hifi" sound to them because of the aforementioned frequency response anamoly.
I haven't heard them in a guitar amp, but I hear good things about them. I have however heard them in a PA system and not only are the cabs very light, but it sounds really really good.
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One question, by 10 pictures in the "tutorial sections" does that mean the "in progress work" section? Or only if you put up a finished tutorial?
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Perfectly normal don't worry about it.
It really gets scary when you start doing some really thick purfling on the top and realize there is less than 1mm of kerfing holding onto your perfect top. Those are the times the hair on the back of your neck stands up when your gluing your binding on.
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I've used grovers quite a bit in the past, but right now I use only schaller.
Binding Trimming
in Acoustic and Hollowbody Guitar Chat
Posted
I always use binding that has been pre-sized. Saves a load of time scraping it down to size.
But honestly I wouldn't have any problem taking a router with a flush trim bit to it. There is far less chance of tearout since the grain is always running in the correct direction to avoid tearout (since the binding is bent) as opposed to the back and sides which have grain to deal with.