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Daniel Sorbera

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Posts posted by Daniel Sorbera

  1. I've done exactly two necks that didn't need any leveling, both were pressed frets into a very hard ebony board and I still hit it with some high grit sand paper and polished um up just to be on the safe side (and because I always buff them out with special metal compound, makes a big difference).

    So it is possible to do a fret job that needs to leveling. But I wouldn't count on it.

  2. Chris, do you and Daniel have a thickness sander? If so what model did you go with...if not how are you thicknessing your acoustic wood?

    There is a local cabinet maker nearby that owns a very big $8000+ model that he lets us use to thickness all our wood. He also has an enormous bandsaw and very nice planer.

    So basically when we need to mill the wood to specs we just go over to his shop for the day and do everything over there that we don't have the tools for.

  3. Are the boulder creek guitars the ones that have only a "player" soundhole doing away with the one on the front entirely?

    If so than I've heard about them, and I heard that while they sound great for the player, and are nice plugged in, that they are lacking for any kind of acoustic audience in front of the guitar.

    One the guitar I built I've played it while someone covers up and uncovers the "player" sound hole while your playing and you can hear the distinct difference. It's considerably better, both for the player, and for everyone out in front of the guitar with the extra sound hole there.

    I've been playing it at gigs twice a week and I haven't noticed any drawbacks (ie feedback or anything like that).

  4. Very close to mahogany in the midrange, but with a much more defined and prominent low end, I'm not sure weather to attribute this to the black limba, or the bracing design and light construction.

    This was an exceptional piece of spruce and the sound is very above average. Everyone I've shown it to so far has compared it to their $3000+ high end acoustic and mine has won hands down in the sound department every time. No contest.

    Plus it's only gotten better over the last month. I can't wait to hear it in a year or so after it's really broken in.

  5. Its not that I dont like it I just see that same maple toped guitar all over the place, The design is great and I think that you could do some great stuff with some cool woods. Maple is just sooooo over done to me I want to see something New

    Oh I see. I agree, I love doing new and unique stuff, but hey when the customer says he wants a quilt toped guitar stained blue you give exactly that. :D

  6. thanks guys, sorry I haven't been back to check in a while. I thought about sellign and rebuying buy i love this guitar, It's just a schecter I know but still its an amazing ax. I contacted schecter and they told me to talk to some ron guy, Contacted him and he said he actually designed the inlays for schecter and he could do it, but its a little pricey.

    How bout completely replacing the fretboard?? How much does that normally cost for a 25 1/2" scale with 24 frets? I'd make it an ebony board with dot pearl inlays...

    Once again, probably not worth it. That's pretty major surgery and the guitar may not play the same afterwards. There are a lot of amazing axes out there. I would still recommend getting a new one.

    This man speaks the truth. If he says an inlay/repair job is not worth it, I'd listen to that wisdom and either live with it, or get yourself a new guitar. :D

  7. Great work as always Daniel! What did you use to fill the monster pores in the wenge with - epoxy or similar?

    Epoxy thickened with silica to make a paste. It only took one application and light sand back and it was perfectly flat. :D

    @ Matt, What is it that you don't like about the body? Just the shape? Or the stained quilt? I really like the shape, it's just edgy enough to be used for metal but soft enough to be used for more mellow rock as well.

  8. Well done indeed Daniel.

    I like your work, but you make me sad. I remember back in the days when you were working on your first guitar. Now I look at your work (which is most excellent) and at my pile of half finished projects and I hate you for it :D:D

    Good show mate.

    The difference between you and me then is I was a 14 year old kid who had tons of time on his hands and could build all day long B)

  9. Slightly more on topic. I'm going to order one of these as soon as I get my next paycheck. I cant wait to see if they are as good as Wez says.

    I don't believe it will help,but that is because I think people choose picks based on their style of play...

    For me,the 1 mm dunlop nylon is perfect for the attack oriented metal rhythm I play

    For Wez...maybe playing with turtle parts is the way to go...but I figure you,Dan,as a future turtle lover who will one day cry in sadness that you once played the guitar with a creature's only predator defense...

    I agree, and I play the super thin tortex on acoustic with a slight thicker one on electric and I've found those work great for me. But there is no reason I cant find a new favorite that works for my style.

    @ your last sentence.

    :D :D

    But you do realize these aren't real turtle shell right? It's a composite material that supposedly has similar properties.

  10. wes you seem to double post nearly everytime so i'd put the figure at about 9000 plus a few more for those rare occasions you actually talk sense

    And which brand of "sense" does this post of yours belong to?

    Actually,in the previous software program for the invision board it listed the percentage of posts in certain forums...and mine was over 70% in solidbody chat...

    If you wish,you may pull up my posts and start with the first one,reading from the start...you will see which ne of us passed on the most info there,vegas boy... :D

    Oh snap.

    Wait, did that count as good information?

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