stiggz

another for rosewood here, but straying from the topic papua new guinea rosewood, it has a swirling and circling grain in patches, and dead staight in others, worth a look IMO

luke

dunno much about the wood, but if ya wanna grow another tree, make sure u beat up the seed before u plant it, (get ur dog to chew on it for a while) cos otherwise it wont grow.

dont count on getting more than....2 guitars out of a tin, the stuff turns to sh!t after about 3-6 months depending on storage conditions

well yes ed roman sounds like a complete greazy used car sales man type, an i have read a couple of articles on whatever it was, and the amount of crap that boy talks is amazing, i think anyone who beleives that stuff should be put in a tiny padded room... or run in government :D lol

luke

yeah im with idch, crazy ideas are cool somtimes, but i think this is a little to difficult to achieve (well would be for me), but go for it if you dont mind spending some time and some money on it, go for gold

luke

hahaha dan, gotta love that python hehehe, "i fart in you general direction"

surprised noone has picked that up yet

could do it with CA, but i have found that if u use accelerator it creates a more brittle bond, and thin CA gets sucked in the grain of the wood. u could use titebond, and put a bag of sand or wheat on top of it (while lying the guitar flat of course), plus it gives u some time to position it correctly. i recon that would be ur best bet.

my 2c.

luke

gorilla glue as u said is a urethane glue, but is only good for glueing shoes rubber and other plastics that are non-porus. The way white, yellow and hide glue works is the glue is dissolved in a solvent (water), and the polymers get sucked into the crevases cracks and pores of the material being glued as the solvent evaporates. urethane glue works on the same principle, but the solvent is acetone, and it evaporates a hell of a lot faster, and that doesnt give the molecules enough time to be sucked in the material. Also triming the excess away from the glue shouldnt make a difference, as the excess isnt attaching the surface.

my 2c,

luke

edit: Doc i beg to differ you can separate a g glue joint, if you apply acetone to the glue joint... well soak the joint in it, it will come apart fairly easily.

the pine u will buy from lumber yards is usually for framing or cabinet making, and is usually fairly green (by green i mean not dried), and will not hold up to the stress' of a guitar to nicely, go for somthing tried and tested, or some other wood that is dry enuf.

try brian at Universal Jems, brian is admin here, and he checks out all the kits and cleans em up a bit, u pay a lil bit extra for his services tho. i dunno bout the quality of the kits though

Hey

I was wondering would anyone have the know-how or the schematic of the Framptone talk box or the danelectro free speech talk box, cos id love to experiment with em, but i dont have the money to buy 1, so i though i might try to build 1. any help fellas?

thanks in advance

luke

go for it, sounds like ur organised, on my first i didnt buy parts before i hacked into the wood, thats somthing which i lived to regret

luke

save it for 'ron (later on), or, dont go the carved top if the veneer thing is a huge issue, or flip a coin, and if u dont like what the coin gives u do the other 1

luke

i think this is a great idea, FAQ's are far better rescouce than saying its bin answered before go and find it. I am a search gumby, i cannot use the search function, it gives me (most times) random crap, so an FAQ is a good idea

hey,

i am currently doing a school physics assignment, and i have wired my most recent guitar, and it has an active system. now my question is how would one draw the active pickups in schematic form? a normal pickup is just an inductor with a magnetic core (curly line with 2 straight 1's undernieth) right? so how would i draw an active 1?

luke

hey welcome aboard

ur from brisbane ay?, there are quite a few people on here from brizzy, if ya need any assistance with locating suppliers and what not, drop us a line

luke

well i have brushed tung oil, its not bad, BUT, it goes on wafer thin, and it runs like just after a curry , and about 10 hours between coats, the finish on necks is great, shinny like laquer, but fast like a matt finish

another thing the stuff in the can turns to sh!t after about 3 months, so dont plan on using it the same can for more than 1 project, so buy the smallest can possible.

thats all from me

luke

tazzy blackwood as an alternative to koa? nah i dont think so. in the peice i got in a neck next to me similar colour, and small flaming goin on, but sounds nothing like it, harsher tone, IMO of course, i could be and am prbably wrong with this 1 but meh

luke

hi, at the moment i am just wiring my latest guitar, but i am killing 2 birds with one stone by using it as part of a physics assignment. now, my question is regarding this

cheap black ice

What is the basic theory behind this? What does it do to the output signal? Why it does it? and anything else that could be of use

thanks in advance

luke

if u cant pull up, probably 1 of2 things

1. your trem is actually leaning on your body

or

2. your trem is blocked, meaning there is somthing in between the trem block and the body cavity.

to fix 1, remove the diagonal spring, re-tune ect, (take out middle spring as well if necessary). if your trem is blocked take the thing that is stopping it from pulling up (peice of wood or somthing)

well my local music shop stocks alot of eagle guitar hardware, just small things like TOM's jack plates, basic stuff really. i cannot complain, this is good quality for what u pay for it, only thing is the plating on the gold items is a bit thin, but thats not really a big deal to me anyway

i dont mind it actually, it is reminicent of eddie van halens music man/wolfgang

perry,

i was under the impression, and have been told by someone that victorian ash, is just that, ash, similar to european ash in most qualities, density, colour, grain orientation and tonal properties as well. Since u know your stuff probably better than i do im gonna have to give you the benifet of the doubt on this 1

luke

well it will sound like ash, a bit crisper than american, like a strat (depending on pickups of course). but please make somthing decent out of it, not a junk guitar!! print out a basic CAD template, buy a neck if you are not up to it your self, use decent hardware, even cheap ebay rubbish is better than using cyclone rod as a bridge.

dont waste this wood on somthing you wont learn from

luke

Walmart sells guns.  Where have you been man!?

Anyway, yeah, Walmart.

←

I'm not from America There are places in the world where the general stores don't sell firearms, beleive it or not

Is Tru-Oil common outside the states? does it go by a different name elsewhere?

- Dan

←

dan, im not exactly sure if this is 100% correct, but tung-oil seems to be a close alternative, its goes on really thin, so it can be brushed without any major troubles, and unlike other laquer doesnt stay sticky-ish for more than 10hours from being applied, and when enuf patience, and(....for lack of a better word) commitment , a really shiny finish can be acheived

its dirt cheap and goes a long way, bout 15 bucks for a litre and i have used bout 3 cm's of this tin on 2 guitars

luke