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stiggz

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Posts posted by stiggz

  1. Wow, I didn't know there was so many of you guys doing the CNC thing.

    Mine is an MDF unit that uses skate bearings and aluminum right angle for the linear bearings. I'm using 269oz-in steppers and they seem to work well with the aluminium and delrin I've been machining. The bed is 600 x 900mm and has about 150mm of Z travel.

    At the moment the machine is in pieces as i have moved house but will be back up and running in no time.

    MiKro: any chance you could re-upload that LP surface? the link appears to be dead.

    thanks

    luke

  2. Reading the new issue of Guitar World it talks about a 3rd Jackson Prototype RR model guitar.

    It goes on to say how it was basically built to be a V shaped Les Paul Custon.

    In the article it talks about a 5-piece laminate maple neck.

    What dimension would each piece of wood be for a neck through?

    I'm not so much worried about length but more so the width and thickness of each board?

    Did gibson ever laminate any other types of wood in there?

    Thanks!

    does it really matter how thick they are?

    one could assume they are the same thickness or maybe there could be a narrow few in the middle? who knows

    for my neck through bass i did a 5 peice laminate of tazzy blackwood and QLD maple the 3 inner laminates were 1/2" and god knows what the outside ones were, thickness? how thick is ur guitar/bass gonna be? answered ur own question there

    *edit, who really gives an airborne fornication what gibson did, if you are building a guitar you are building it for yourself not a gibson customer

  3. its a matter of personal preference, if you're a fan of the everlasting eternaly shiney guitar then either a polyurethane (2 part) or automotive acrylic would do nicely. If you want somthing thats gonna wear with age crack a bit n yellow like buggery then nitro is the go. with tung oil it is possible to create a glass like finish, but i have only ever used it when i want the pores of the grain to come through. I like the feel of it, but i also like the feel of nitro on a neck

    all up to you dude

    take it easy

    luke

    oh make sure you use polymerised tung oil :D

  4. either you are more of a perfectionist than anyone i have met or there is a problem

    and old mate is quite possibly correct, your pollishing compound may be coarser than 12,000 grit,

    i dont know too much about the products you are using, but in my experience (somewhat limited at that) the compound should break down and get finer and finer till the is nothing but a freakin good shine, thats how the sruff that i cut'n'polished my car with does

    failing that some of this should to the trick :D

    turd-polish%20copy.jpg

    :D

  5. i did one on an rg i was refinishing, still havent completely finished that one there is an old thread on it somwhere here

    easiest way i have found is have the paint on the waters surface and push it through, then clear paint away with newspaper and remove guitar, but make sure the guitar is very well sealed i mean VERY well sealed ie drip wax/push blutac into all screw holes and make sure your base coat is thick as

    if ya dont clear the paint away when ya pull it out it adds another layer to it and gets more complex, which look a bit crap

    ill dig up my thread with pics of said rg in it

    http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...63&hl=swirl

    there ya go

    edited for spelling

  6. even most paint stripper will touch it.

    haha dont be so sure, motospray (you US guy probably wont have this) quick strip will take 2 pack off i stripped my celica with that **** and there was 3 layers of what appeared to be 2 pack, a coat of isolator then 2 coats of enamel, and it took all of this off with 2 applications of this ****, its a thick as gooey substance and good god it smells strong, its like sniffing acetone but it smells worse and eats through just about every form of "chemically resistant" gloves

    just going to offer my opinion now guys

    after having done 3 guitars in rattle cans and 1 in polymersied tounge oil, i will say that the tounge oil has been by far the most durable, but was a kent of a job to do 20+ coats, the first rattle can job was crap the second a bit better, and the third was by far the best, the first one i used uncatylised enamel absolute crap that was, the second and third i used urethane in a can, second was crap cos i did it in summer the third came out very nice

    after rebuilding and repainting my celica i have bought a spray gun (only a 90 AUD grav HVLP) and i cannot fault it, and the finish if poorly sprayed is about par with a good rattle can job, but IMHO you should buy a compressor and gun and go from there, bit of extra out lay, but with the compressor you can then use a rattle gun (i have a nice 900ftlb one:D) diegrinder and other really handy tools or just use it for its air squirting abilities for cleaning up

    my 2c

    cheers

    luke

  7. hi there

    i saw the carve from the top before you started finishing it and i thought meh it could be alright, then you posted that photo where you can see the whole carve, and farq me dead that looks good

    spend the little extra dosh on a compressor and a gun, you wont regret it :D

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