Lee_
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Posts posted by Lee_
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It's been a busy week, but I had some time to work today.
I thicknessed the fretboard using the router, down to 1/4". Many shallow careful passes, slightly overlapping.
Since I'm thicknessing the neck blank the same way, I cut it to shape to save myself some routing.
Down to 3/4"
On to the body:
The body core will be Red Cedar. It's a great tone wood IMO, very light weight and resonant. The only downside is that it's extremely soft, looking at it for too long will end up with a dent. However, since it's sandwiched between maple top and back, that's not a problem.
I've got some that really matches the color of the roasted maple:
Though it's not quite wide enough to fit the entire body, so I'll add a center block from lighter quartersawn cedar.
Cut:
Planed:
Arranged:
And glued:
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This should be fun! Never used roasted maple but a friend brought over some curly neck blanks awhile back that I'm itching to touch.
Chris
I agree, this should be fun. I'm not sure I've seen a Bigsby rigged for a tele before. And I like the headstock and pickguard shapes. And I love the P-90 in then neck position.
SR
Thanks guys, I sure hope it will be fun, it's been great so far..
Looking forward to see more. Tele + Bigsby is among the best looking guitar IMO. However I prefer the B5 version with the adaptor plate. It brings a little bit less "metal" to the look. BTW were did you get the thermotreated maple from? I have seen neck blanks (actually I have one here waiting for the right build) but never fretboard blanks and tops.
I bought the maple from "Hades Roasted Maple". It's some great looking wood, the only thing that I had to adjust to is the "roasted" smell.. couldn't realize how was my router burning the neck blank with my careful feed rate.. not to mention hand sanding.. than it came to me that's just how it smells
The bigsby really is a hefty chunk of aluminium. I hope it will all come together in the end.
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(almost) Finished the neck template today, there's a little router bite at the headstock that needs filling and sanding. Rough cut with a jigsaw, than cut the straight line using a router and a straight edge. The headstock was shaped using rasps, files, a scraper and sandpaper.
The neck will have 22 frets, and 5mm abalone dots
A little mock-up
with the pickguard
Just to show the way the pickguard goes along with the Bigsby
Now that I'm done with making templates, it's time to make some more expansive sawdust.-
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Hello everybody,
Haven't built a single guitar for the last 7 years.. Suddenly I have a little more time on my hands, and this is what happens. I have been posting the build process on another board, but I figured I'll post it here for old times sake.
So this one will be a thinline-esque, bookmatched roasted flamed maple top and back, roasted birdseye maple neck and fretboard, Kinman Bridge-Blaster and P90, Graphtech Ghost tunomatic coupled with a Bigsby B16 tailpiece and Hipshot locking tuners.
I'm a bit rusty, short in workspace (my balcony will have to do) and in power tools, so this isn't going to be the fastest build ever..
Anyway, here we go:
The maple (God bless Canada)
Free-hand design on a piece of plywood. It's not a one-for-one telecaster, it's ever so slightly rounder in the lower bout, and the neck joint is obviously different.
F-hole design
I transferred the f-hole's shape to a thicker piece of MDF, did some final shaping, then routed it to the body template (didn't take pictures of the template making, but it's pretty straight forward) using a 3/8" ball bearing bit, and finishing it off with a 1/4" bit, with the shank riding the MDF as a guide.
Same thing for the second f-hole
Cut and shaped the pickguard from some creme plastic (I know it seems early for this step, but I wanted to make sure the ideas that seem great in my twisted mind work in reality)
And here it is with a sketch of the layout. The f-hole will go through the pickguard.
I like it.
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I didn't have much time for building guitars or hanging around the forums for the last 12 months or so, but I did manage to complete this bass for my own enjoiment.
So here goes:
4 string headless bass
Black Korina and Purpleheart body
Spalted Maple top
3 pc Maple/Purpleheart neck
Birdseye Maple fretboard
24 frets
Bartolini 9J1 set and active preamp
ETS headless system (the headpiece is a custom design)
Piezo equiped saddles
I really like this one, it's not too heavy nor too light, and has a vast range of sounds from super tight glassy piezo tones to ultra deep lows and punchy slap tone. BTW, if you play distorted bass you just owe yourself a good piezo system, it's super clear and cuts through anything.
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I'm in freakin' tears from laughing so hard
(iron sausage ) -
A simpler, more traditional design than my other guitars.
Mahogany body with a maple stripe
Three pieces maple neck
Cocobolo fretboard
24 jumbo frets
Paua abalone dot inlay
Gotoh chrome hardware
String thru body
DiMarzio Steve's Special in the bridge
DiMarzio Air Norton in the neck
Vol. Tone, 3-way PU selector
Graphtech Tremnut
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This is the fourth guitar me and my friend have finished, and our first GOTM entry.
This is the revised version of our last design, the Serpentine. It has a bigger body, a different headstock, and better upper register accesability.
Specs:
Neck thru maple neck
Black Limba body wings
Ebony fretboard
Mop diamond inlays
Schaller floyd
Grover locking mini Rotomatics
Dimarzio FRED in the bridge position
Dimarzio PAF Joe in the neck position
Dunlop straplocks
Controls: volume, PU selector, tone, Varitone, series/parallel for each pickup, booster on/off.
Oil finish
This one was made for the guitar player in my band.
BTW, This design is currently avialable through the Moser custom shop.
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I'd like to wire a guitar with a 3 way pickup selector so that the first position will be bridge only, second position both pickups through a blend pot, and third position neck only. Got any ideas?
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I'm sorry if this has been answerd before, but the search didn't come up with anything usefull.
I know an oz is 28 grams, but how many pieces of shell, let's say 1.5 mm thick., are there in an oz?
Thanks
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Thats looks amazing dude!
My only question is, the 1st and 6th strings come out of/through the nut at a pretty savage angle... does that come into play at all seeing as you've got the Kahler on there?
Still, great work... looks excellent.
- Dan
Threre is no problam at all. The nut is a Graphtech Trem-Nut and it stays in tune no matter what.
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Well, the guitar was done about a month ago but I didn't think the oil cured hard enough untill yesterday. So I gave it the last layer of wax and done a photoshot. The camera used is an Olympos C-750 ultra zoom.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010008.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010006.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010003.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010039.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010037.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010036.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010034.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010033.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010032.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010031.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010029.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010028.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010027.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010025.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010024.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010021.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010020.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010019.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010018.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010017.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010016.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010014.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/PA010013.jpg
Sorry about the tons of pics, but I just got a new camera
As for sound, It sounds like nothing else I've ever heard. Korina is nothing like mahogany judging by this guitar. It has tons of low mids but the high notes are more crystal like compared to all mahogany guitars. Distorted it is just SICK, while clean it needs some mid cut to sound prefect. Luckily I changed the booster to a varitone so thats not a problem. Best pulm muting I've ever heard and the Kahler is just great.
The other twisted sister is currently on hold, bigger things to do.
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That's a beautiful shade of blue.
And I like the headstock.
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Glued the inlay in place and started sanding them. Gave the body some bevels.
I think the kahler looks prefect on this guitar.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8250033.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8250036.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8250037.jpg
And that's the soon to be happy owner, my little brother, Ron.
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If you use oak for the neck you'll have to finish it with a thick coat of poly or something. you can't use oil or other thin finishes because of the grain.
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And he ships overseas for a very good price
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Of course there are many ways to build a neck, so you don't have to stick to the one in the tutorial.
I rough shape the neck using a chisel and then I'm using a file to get it to shape.
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I could swear that I've already replied.
Anyway, the inlay material is paua abalone. All of the guitar will be oil finished so none of that beautiful figure will be covered.
Thanks for the tip about the pic Tommy.
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The neck is done, and so are the inlays.
Not the cleanest inlay ever, but nothing that a little bit of epoxy could'nt fix.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8200019.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8200020.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8200018.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8200021.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8220024.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/Lee_O/P8220033.jpg
Thanks for all the good advice.
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There will be no fret access problem as the 24 is right in the middle of the little hole.
i am sorry,but if the 24th fret is where you say it is you will never get your hand in there.
I don't think I'll have a problem. On my other guitar the body meets the neck at the 22 fret and I have no access problem.
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The specs on the korina one are as following:
neck-thru construction
black korina neck and body
ebony fretboard
24.75" scale
24 frets
Kahler bridge
dual Seymour Duncan alnico II pro humbuckers
Grover locking tuners
master volume and master tone
pickup selector
splits for both pickups
push/pull pot that activates a booster and sets it's gain
Graphtec nut
The mahogany one is suposed to get sold, but I just might keep it for myself and then I will slap a Kahler and a couple of bill lawrance L500s on her.
There will be no fret access problem as the 24 is right in the middle of the little hole.
For the headstock I'm going for a 3x3, althogh that's not set in stone yet.
I had to cut the corners of the Kahler route using a knife because the only following router bit I have is 1/2".
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Some seriously nice limba there. Im sure metal matt will love this
Watch the rules on pic posting, only one per post and then the rest links.
Thanks, I have edited it while you were posting.
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Finished this guitar a few weeks ago, but didn't have a camera until yesterday.
Maple neck, spalted Imbuya body, ebony fretboard, Grover machines, Schaller bridge and a Dimarzio super distortion.
More to come when I finish my exams.
(iron sausage 
Roasted Maple Thinline
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
No problem Peter,
You should probably go ahead and email Rene. He's a nice fellow, and I believe he has much more in his stock then he lists.
Cleaned, planed and scraped the body blank flat, only to draw the outline 2mm off center.. sanded the entire thing and drew it on again, correctly this time.
Free handed the chambers. The bottom has three separate chambers so that I could shield the electronics. You can see the fatter bit for the bellycut at the top bout.
Drilled 10mm holes at the tight corners
Than played a little "connect the dots" with the jigsaw
Cut the outline
I'll glue the maple top on before doing any more work on the cedar, as it isn't strong enough in this relatively thin form to deal with the forces a router would introduce. The only thing I must do before that is carving the bellycut's inner slope, I'll use a knife for that.