ToneMonkey

This thread here:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...mp;#entry402157

I think I only ever bought a slotted fret board from David Dyke so couldn't comment on the wood. I have ordered a fair few tools from him and they were what I meant was fairly pricey, but good stuff (which is why it's more pricey). Although I saw a really nice bit of wood from him sitting in my mates shed once.

Nice bloke on the phone too.

Not sure if craft supplies still cut wood with a teaspoon. Although I bought some hardware from there once and when I got it home, there was two sets in the box, so they've always had a bit of favour with me.

Any thoughts?

Go back and cut off enough for a neck....... and a body...... and some for me too.

The thing about David Dyke is that it's fairly expensive..... BUT, you do get what you paid for and the stuff is really top notch. The name that was evading me was Craft Supplies near Buxton. Last time I used them, they were fairly cheep and as queeny is from that part of the country I can call in on one of the (too frequent) trips up there.

Also mate, since you're new, I'd try to track down a copy of "Build Your Own Electric Guitar" by Melvin Hiscock (who is actually a member here now, but I haven't seen him around for ages). Well worth the money if you haven't already got it.

@ToneMonkey:

Yeah, i'm going to put another pick up on there. So SwedishLuthier expect an order soon

Good man. Now just move the selector switch into a Les Paul position and route me out a body...... I'll pay for postage

Thanks! The Steinbergers are great!!! Too expensive to use on all my guitars, tho... If I make more FBirds, I'll definitely use them again.

I have them on my Firebird and I'm fairly impressed. Look really good.

Interesting question, kind of "is the glass half full"

Personally I think of a hollow body something that was designed this way with a thin top ES-335. Chambered is something that was designed to be a solid body with holes routed in it (Thinline Tele etc).

-martin- - Glad to see it's comming on, I really like this design..... although I'd still get SL to make you another pup and put that on there

BTW - Swedish Luthier - I have a load of strat style pole pieces sitting upstairs which I don't think I'll use (well not all 120+ anyway), For the life of me I can't remember what magnet they are but I'm trying to find out. Fancy a trade of some description?

Ha ha, oddly enough, I can still just see a box with a red cross in.

I can't see any pics that are hosted on any pic sites (photobucket etc), I can only see pics that are attached directly into the thread (which is also a pain in the arse for me as I can't attach any pics to threads as my computer is blocked from doing that too)

Damn you all and your picture hosting websites. Damn you work server that wont let me see them. Damn, damn, damn.

Errr, I can't see it

Yeah man, I'd like to see that. i was looking on the UK knife building forum a while back when I was looking for something to build out of a nice block of wood that I had here. Think that one day I'll make a knife out of twisted demascus bar as I use a knife at work every now and again.

Alrighty dudes,

I was talking to my mate the other night who's training to be a tree surgeon. Not only does this mean that I'll have a good supply of wood for my new stove (when I finally move in anyway), but I may have a good supply of logs to dry and use too.

He was telling me that hornbeam is the hardest UK wood so I was wondering if anyone had used it for an axe? I know it blunts tools really bad and if you tap it it sounds like concrete, but that's about it... oh yeah, it's real good for burning too.

Can't see him cutting down too many mahogany trees though

My mates got a load of flouresent pink wire and has promised to use it next time I send a guitar to him.

I'm going to send my CAD plans up to the laser cutters next time I need some templates.

A powerful soldering iron should free it up surely

or try tapping it down first to break the connection...

then get an approriate sized bolt and take it out with a socket and breaker bar.

not that I've tried it but I have done similar things on many other things!

Yeah, I've pulled bushing out like this before, but these have been retro fitted and the original holes plugged. With the position that the bushings are in comared to the plugs, the nif I take out the bushing, I'm very likely to pull the plug out too. Sonce it looks like they've all been glued, it's not really an option.

I'm about the wire a guitar that has the bushings in for a wrop around tail piece and they wont shift (I think they're glued in). I'm going to have to drill down to the bushing, strip a wire and poke it down the hole. Then I'm going to fill it with solder. A bit of an arse about face way of doing things, but if anyone knows a better idea, I'd be happy to hear it :o)

I was thinking about this a while back and speaking in tone voodoo

If I were a tonevoodooian, then I'd agree that the fewer pieces of metal between the vibration of the strings and the wood, the better.

Yeah, but I know that neither of us are

Have a pay about with a scrap bit of wood and you'll see that you can put them directly into the body and it'll be plenty strong enough to be able to pick the scrap wood up. You'll notice how firmly they're in when you try to screw the bloody things in.

I was thinking about this a while back and speaking in tone voodoo, I would say that removing the bushings and screwing directly into the wood will increase sustain (although probably not by any noticable difference) as you're reducing any vibration that you might have between the post and the bushing.

The fact that it is a string through will increase the downward pressure on the bridge as the strings behind the TOM will be pulled down at a shaprer angle that they would with a stop piece.

Have you tried the usual suppliers (David Dyke, Touchstone Tonewoods, The other one that I've forgotten the name of), or are you after a private sale.

I see that you're new, so don't know if you know the suppliers or not, don't want you to think I was taking the p*ss

Birthdays and Christmas have been good to me when it comes to tools..... although I didn't get my £40 bandsaw when I dropped about two weeks worth of hints to the wife..... but she does say I can have a belt sander when we buy a new house.

Ha ha, yeah they're a real bitch, I was just having to do this on my Cigar Box Guitar (which I've finally finished, YAY ME).

OK, they do screw diectly into the wood, a hole needs to be drilled so that it can be threaded in. I'm sure some people will have different methods for this, but I just drilled holes in a bit of wood and kept trying it until I could screw it in. I didn't see a neew to glue them as they were in plenty hard enough, as it sounds like you've just found out trying to screw it in.

To screw it in there's two options available to you, you can use the thumbscrew that come with it, but I strongly advise you to find some nuts that will fit the thread on the post, you'll need two of them. Screw them on to the post and lock them together by turning them in opposite directions, you can now use the top on of these nuts to turn the whole post, at first with your fingers and then with a small spanner. Be real careful and protect the top of your guitar when you're playing with the spanner. Handy trick to remember, 'cause I bet it wont be the last time you have to do it (but the next may not be on a guitar)

EDIT: Oh yeah, forgot. Just done this on my Eggle too, but the holes were pre-drilled. Both of them were Gotoh BTW.

Less than the wife has spent on shoes

Fuggin awesome. Love it.

Donate to this site and there are LOADS of plans. Sadly I can never find the link to what is there, but I'm sure someone will help.

Yeah, I'm landing on the "take it to a luthier" side of the fence. Especially with an old guitar. Besides, getting them to do the nut for you will probably cost about the same as getting yourself set up to make one.

Alternatively, you could always learn to play the guitar the right way round