ToneMonkey

Oh yeah, I read at the side of borge's post by accident. Sorry, been in the pub most of the afternoon watching the football

Since you're in NY, then have a look at that Stew Mac link and see if you fancy making it. Even if it all goes horribly tits up, it'll only set you back a couple of dollars. If you get a pre-slotted one, you can sand it down to make it fit perfectly.

There should be a fair few luthiers and guitar fiddlers in NY. Have a hunt round and check on these boards, I'm sure someone could help you better than I can from Blighty.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. P-90's are my favorite pup ever.

Either. Where abouts in the world are you? (EDIT: I see you're in NZ. There may be a few people around here that can help you if you're after someone)

In all honesty, and don't think I'm taking the p**s here, it sounds like you're not as experenced in guitar twidling as a lot of those on the boards (which is no bad thing, stay around here for a bit and you will be soon). So if you're happy dishing out a couple of extra quid, then I'd take it to someone to do. This would be absolute bread and butter work to a luthier and wouldnt cost too much at all. They'd also be able to do give the guitar a once over and depending on the state that it's in, make it far nicer to play than us mear mortals

If you want to do it yourself then have a look over at Stewart MacDonald (google it). It's a good resource for looking at parts and will give you a good idea for sizes. You get the choice of slotted and non-slotted options so that depends on if you want to do the slots yourself or not.

BTW - If you are going to take off the nut then have a look around the sides and see if there is any finish over it. When I've done it in the past, I've scored round the nut with a scalpel so that it doesn't pull a load of finish off at the same time.

EDIT: Edited this bit due to stupidity on my part.

Personally though, if this was my axe, then I'd replace the nut and bridge (and pick guard for that matter).

Nice axe BTW, I like it a lot.

Well done indeed Daniel.

I like your work, but you make me sad. I remember back in the days when you were working on your first guitar. Now I look at your work (which is most excellent) and at my pile of half finished projects and I hate you for it

Good show mate.

Growth rings. The number of rings and or size becomes a factor because early wood and late wood are very different in strength and density. Early wood is the lighter colored part of the rings. It grows fast with lots of moisture and is much less dense and strong compaired to late wood(dark rings). The overall ratio of late to early growh is really what is important. The more late wood the denser and stronger it will be. This is why many seek wood from that grows more slowely at high elevations where moisture is often frozen much of the year and less available to the tree for growth. You also should onsider ring spacing, as very wild swings from wide rings to skinny will give you wood with less balanced strength/stiffness across the board. Very large differences may lead to focused stress in areas instead of spreading it about the top more evenly.

Well I don't think that there's much anybody could add to Rich's post, but I'll have a crack anyway

People often refer to old and new growth wood in a different (but along the same lines) context. When I was looking into building snooker cues, they refer to old growth and new growth as essentially the difference between new and old trees. When making cues, you want really straight grain with the growth rings as close to each other as possible, this makes the cue more stable and the wood denser. Older trees are generally from natural woodland where the trees are closer together and there grow slower as there is only a finate amount of light and feed. Newer trees are aften "farmed" (for want of a better word) and are grown further apart (this could include thinning out of woodland) therefore the trees grow quicker and the rings are futher apart.

There's a lot of that in woodworking, where each branch has a slightly different lingo. Get's bloody confusing sometimes.

As for the Yamaha, I have used a Pacifica, and I did not liked it a bit...

This is why you should try out the axes that you are looking at before buying. Most people like the Pacifica, but obviously Maiden didn't get on with it. You're a lot more likely to pick up the guitar and play with it if it's one that you really enjoy playing. You could buy a £2000 PRS, but if you don't get on with it you're less likely to pick it up.

I'd visit as many shops as possible and play as many guitars as possible so that you get a feel for what you like. It wont take long before you start to firm up ideas.

If my money covered it, I would probably go for a second hand pacifica and a Vox moddeling amp (AD??VT - I have an AD30VT). Not payed one of the Deans that Wes advised, but it certainly looks the biz.

EDIT: And what you save on kit can be spent on a couple of lessons, which will pay dividens.

Perry

Have you considered covering the area in mylar to enclose it? Mylar reflects so much more of the light and heat (around 98% I think) that I think you would probably recoupe your costs fairly quickly as you won't need as much electric.

http://www.mosesgraphite.com/products.html

They have graphite fingerboards for a lot of instruments. I've never used any of them though.

And anybody know why there aren't more laminated fingerboards used? I saw one on a bass project on the forum and it looked awesome.

When I made a neck blank from maple:zebrano:maple laminates, I cut off a long strip of the blank to use as the finger board so that the wood patern continued all the way through.... would have looked good if the neck didn't go tit's up (nothing to do with the fingerboard though).

and advised not to get tools too sharp as the fine edge wears quickly.

Well it's the first time I've heard that, but that doesn't mean to say it's untrue.

However, I take mine to the local harware shop where he does an excellent job for very little money. I don't really use my woodworking tools often enough to warrent buying a wheel. I've got an oil stone, but to be honest, it's one of those jobs where I prefer to pay to get it done propperly.

I just tried to give you 5 stars..... but it had no affect on the rating on your profile.

It was an experiment of course, normally I wouldn't give you the steam of my p**s, let alone 5 stars

I can't see the pics I'm afraid, but I had this exact same problem. Got the neck to a nice shape with only finishing touches to go, went to shape the headstock and found a very dodgy bit of wood hiding in there. Tried to cut it out but just found more

Ended up burnig it a couple of months ago when I ran out of wood for the fire. Zebrano smells nice when it's burnt

Yeah man, make me one too........

Except for a normal TOM and 2 pups

I like it a lot, I'd buy it too.

Although, I can't see the need for the additional bracing at the heel end now that you've routed them through to each other.

As for recessed TOM's; dunno why, but I just don't really like the look of them.

Aldi also have good kit sometimes (well I use the trem "good" losely)

They had a little band saw for £40 which obviously wasn't great but looked like a good forty quids worth. No matter how many hints I dropped to the wife, she still didn't get me one though..... but has just spent about twice that on shoes.

If you sand the finish off using emery cloth rather than sandpaper, it will come off a hell of a lot quicker.

I hear good things about Bulldog pups too.

Someone once suggested using google to just search the forum. Bit too complicated for a computer numpty like me, but it can be done.

And yeah, the search feature here isn't the best.

Don't know if you have your mind set on HBs. If not: my all time top choice pickup is P90! They are warm with a full, quite hot output and still retain that single coil top end/edge/openness to cut through the cymbals from a drummer or a keyboard player or horns or whatever. And the gritty sound they produce is (IMHO) perfect for both rock and blues. Can’t beat a P90 for slide playing.

Ok, great, that's what I'm looking for - suggestions on what to research. Is there a particular brand of P90 that I should look into, read up on?

-John

Hmm, I just did a search for P90, no results. It should have brought back a ton. Is the search feature broken?

-J

I'm a P-90 fan too. The originals were (I think) Gibson, so google "Gibson P90". I think most pup manufactures will do a P-90. I know Bare Knuckle do two different types (BKP-90 and BKP-91) so that could be a good place to start.

Just read this again and in response to the post that I made in April:

I ASKED THE WIFE & HERE RESPONSE WAS:

Now most of her experience is in plastic degrading and I'll admit that wood and plastics are differnt, but I'm transfering the theory across anyway. If the wood (plastic) is "off gassing" then the build up of the gas in the case would encourage the process, so you would get a stronger smeall for a shorter period. So if you want to preserve it, then open it up and enjoy it as often as possible.

Sorry about any spelling, rather drunk.

My thoughts exactly

Hey I just noticed you are in Lincoln!!!! I only live up the road so to speak in Nottingham!!!!!!!! nice to see some UK members and also not too far away That is a damn fine fingerboard and I have come to the stage now that it is just not cost effective to do anymore fancy inlays as it takes up too much of my time and basically any complex stuff I simply don't make a penny from it, this is why trying to get someone good and reasonable is what I have decided to do, do you build your own guitars and stuff ??

Luthiers of the A46, represent!

Another one here.

At the minute the strings do slightly touch the box, but the bridge has to be raised as the action is very low (waiting until it's wired before I set it all up properly as I have to take the neck off again) - which is one of the reasons that the bridge posts as still sticking up so much. Once it's raised there should be no problems.... but at the minute, it has no noticable effect.

You’re right, the HB is two single coils duct taped together. One of the SC’s was held together with masking tape so I decided to continue the theme. They look really old and they’re so big and fat that I could resist making a HB out of them.

Following on from Jehle's awesome creations, I thought I'd have a bash at knocking up a CBG.

Unfortunately I still can't get on to any sites to host pics, so the easiest way for me to show you guys is for you to click on the link below (where someone has alrady posted the pics for me - cheer WezV).

You can see my comments about it in the first post.

http://www.bareknucklepickups.co.uk/forum/...pic.php?t=13066