ToneMonkey

Could a jig to mount your router on be of any use. That would be a lot safer.

But to back up what the other guys have said, drill presses have a conical friction fitting between the chuck and the shaft, if you start to put too much horizontal pressure on it, it will come loose. I did this with a drum sander, very cheap pillar drill and too much drunken enthusiasm.

Ok so on most guitars that have pictures/prints on them their airbrushed on then lacquered.

But has anyone ever heard of getting a picture made on Paper or some suitable material to fit your guitar then laquer over it?

See my previous post

EDIT: Infact. here's a link http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/mat.htm

Update,

I cut out the soundholes. After I tried about 20+ variations, I found what looked best to me, kinda sexy in my thinking Not the traditional sound holes, but they have more volumectric area, appoximately 20% more than the traditional round ones. Now my question to you all. The worm holes (yes, that's why they call it ambrosia maple due to the ambrosia worm) look closely on the top, there are (6) six of them. I'm thinking about filling them with side dot markers? What do you think? I would really like some opinions on this? It might look cool then again kinda hokey?

link

Thanks

MK

Interesting, I didn't see them at first. Good job the worm ate its way straight forward so your holes are bookmatched too.

I owuld be tempted to either leave them (depending on the finish), you could sell them as special tone holes, dug by a specific size work to increase the resonance of an F#

Failing that, then something contrasting I would say, either mahogany or metal in my humblist opinion.

Have a search round for material finishes (using search) and I think there's a tutorial in the tutorials section (obviously)

Actually, the neck I'm working with is black walnut, with an ebony fingerboard. Black walnut body (Similar to an SG). Brass tubes would really pop. I will want to play with it, I wouldn't want the neck to shrink/move and make the tubes stick out, that would not be good on the fingers.I suppose if I relieved the edge a tiny bit it would keep you from getting cut, but it still wouldn't be good.

Larger brass tubes for the inlay for the fretboard? Except for the same problem, if the fingerboard wears over time, it will wear faster then the inlay. I guess you would have that problem with M.O.P. too wouldn't you? Am I just being paranoid?

-John

There's always sandpaper

Brass dots are pretty cool I tried them on some scrap and found that they were too light on the maple and blended in with the rosewood. On ebony it would work well, maybe even better with silver or... yeah, silver.

Going off topic I realise, but....

If by silver you mean actual silver, eg sterling silver (as opposed to silver-coloured metal) I would point out that silver tarnishes on contact with air, and even more so when in contact with.....you guessed it.....your skin! The chemical composition of your sweat will discolour it in no time. Everyone's a little different of course! Silver can actually go a nice black colour if left to tarnish enough. That's 18 years of experience working for a jewellery manufacturer talking.

Now, stainless steel on the other hand.....

DJ

That (and the fact that silver scratches up fairly easily) in one of the reasons why my wedding ring is tungsten carbide. You could try that, but sanding it might be a bit difficult

Yeah I did think that at one point. Think I'll break out the drill. Wish me luck

In follow up to my previous post. Ordered the stuff from axesrus near midnight 2 days ago. Parcel waiting for me when I got home from work today.

Alright guys.

I've got an order in the other explorer window and it's with axesrus, which if last night is anything to go by will delete itself any minute now.

I need to order some bushings for the stop tail piece posts to go into. I have the stop piece and some posts but they're a bit fat. The holes in my axe are 10mm and these busings are 11.5mm at the bottom and 12mm at the knurled bit.

Now here is what I think is the crux of the situation. The ones that I have, don't appear to sit flat with the guitars surface if I pushed them in. They have a ring on the top that sits proud of the body. I'm fairly sure that I need the bushings that fit flush with the body. Anyone know where I can get these from in the UK. I've tried phoneing axesrus but they must be round the back smoking and a couple of sites that I've been on are fairly non-specific. I don't mind buying the posts with the studs as the ones I've got are a bit too tight in the tail piece anyway.

Cheers dudes, first correct answer wins a pint, anyone to post them to me wins a pint for each busing and a pint for postage. Prize to be awarded at my local

bygde - new topic started in main section!

Alright mate, following on from the other thread, I've started this one so as not to hijack aidlook's.

My problem is that I need to join 2 pieces of steel. 1 piece (side/vertical) is 0.9mm, the other piece (top/horizontal) is 0.7mm thick.

The side is bent and clamped around a curved form. The top then sits on top of it (obviously) to be joined. I can create a lip or teeth in the top and bend it round at 90 degrees if needs be. I'd prefer not to have to, but the option is there if I need it (for example, if welding it isn't suitable and I need to silver solder/braize it).

Obviously I need to limit the amount of distortion that the metal sees to an absolute minimum. The finished weld will also need sanding down to form a nice rounded edge with the top and side.

Also, just to make things difficult, this may be chrome plated. This is done at a fairly high temperature, so if I end up silver soldering it, it would have to be able to stand this temperature.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

On a lighter note, aren't you a fairly long way north in Sweden? Thought it would be fairly dark up there for long periods at the minute, hence the crack about having enough light to work with. I was born in Sweden but moved away was I was still a nipper so can't remember it. Definately going to be going back at some point over the next couple of years. Been promising myself for ages.

Kaj (very happy because there's probably 3 or 4 people on these boards now who can pronounce his name)

Howzabout no headstock at all?

Odd looking

Earlier tonight I priced up all the stuff to finish one of my axes - nearly everything except pups and tuners (would have bought it if the security code didn't come off my card in the washing machine )

Turns out the with shipping included, it was nearly as cheap getting it fom axesrus.

Since you're up north, maybe worth a trip to near Buxton, name of the place escapes me, but someone will fill you in.

LAG or reverse firebird...... or the Zachary droopy willy

I once saw a drummer (The Oyster Band) playing a whole song on the scaffolding behind him. Sounded really good, all things considered.

Hey look, what's that over there? I think it might be the original topic, shall we all go stand over there to talk?

This is a post from a very nice bloke called floyd over at the Patrick Eggle forum:

This may be of help or interest to those people that didn’t know that you could change a left handed Sperzel to a right handed or vice-versa. You would therefore be able to change a set of six in line to a set of three a side or vice-versa if needed, or to change the hand of an individual spare to replace a broken one. It is very easy, all you have to do is: - remove the screw located at the end of the tuning key, pull the key off, followed by the small black washer, and then the bell shaped sleeve. Push the centre spindle out, making sure that the locking wheel is loosened so that the gears can move easily inside the main body, a little wiggling and turning may be required to release the spindle. Insert the spindle into the opposite side of the main body, (again you may need to wiggle it about a bit to get it seated hard up against the main body), and assemble the other parts on to the spindle, all that’s left is to adjust the tension of the screw to adjust the tension of the tuning key, job done.

floyd

This girl told me the other day "I was listening to this old band...have you heard of Tool?"

Was I not supposed to laugh at her?

My mate put a couple of tool albums on last weekend when we were round his house. Awesome drumming, but it all started to get on my tits after a while.

I think they're a top band, but I can only really take a couple of songs at a time. Maybe I'm getting old.

bygde - Bet it's cold in your neck of the woods at the minute. Got enough light to be working with?

Just wanted to ask if you're good at welding, I'm after a bit of advice on joining two bits of thin steel at a right angle (kind of butt joint). If you can help, then I'll start up another thread so we don't hijack this one.

And if anyone could post a picture of the axe straight into a post on this thread it would be appreciated.

I am Gandolf. Everyone thinks I'm hard, but I only show up at the end of fights to take the glory.

Ahhh, now the glory is mine, I'll be off. Send medals in post.

Ta ta.

You think that's bad?When I was in high school(80s) I used to listen to Metallica's Master of puppets and such in the parking lot,and routinely heard from the hicks(how can you listen to that stuff when you can't understand the words?

You could have got them to read the sleave notes........ No hold on, that wouldn't work

Well, I couldn't tell you about my favorite to play as I haven't really played enough, but Reverse Firebird.......SHWINGGGGG

I've worked with people born in the 90's.......... How the hell does that work

In that case, find yourself a local cabinet maker and befriend him. There's a thread somewhere about how many doughnuts and biscuits you should take

If you go and see the cabinet maker with your project and get them enthusiastic about it, they'll help you out.

Leave the guitars and catch up on the school work

Keep in mind there's a lot of bull/myth/mojo going around about what defines tone;

Ain't that the truth!