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Supernova9

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Posts posted by Supernova9

  1. I was just pissed of reading all the crap he wrote on the site...and how if you're a doctor/lawyer you don't deserve his guitars...Or if you've got any physical disabilities....or if you don't prefer a tube amp.

    +1.

    the guy is a tosser. i notice he "quotes" mattia and russ on his main page, wonder if those guys know??

    i for one wouldn't buy a guitar from someone who can't even drill straight for a string through.

    cheers

    darren

    Yeah they know, there was a massive thread about this guy not too long ago. General consensus then was that it was all tone voodoo. I really hope this thread dies soon, he's really not worth the posts.

  2. I have noticed that you have made the headstock ears. Please do not glue them to the neck before bandsawing the neck side profile, because it is hard to do proper sawing that way.

    What are you talking about??? The ears would have very very very little effect on how hard/easy it is to make those cuts on a bandsaw.

  3. When will people learn?? It's no good complaining about Gibson's pricing, it's not their fault idiots will by the BJA LP Junior, or the LP BFG. If someone said to you guys "Hey, write this guy's name on your guitar and you can sell it for double!", would you say no?

    They can only charge what people will pay, or they go out of business. Pure and simple. People buy them, so they sell them. Why do you all get bent out of shape about it? Yes, they're about profit, but pretty much any business in the world is. If I were them I'd be laughing all the way to the bank (and I believe they are, every day).

  4. You know, the more and more I hear this kind of debate (and it's very very often the maple/mahogany one), I'm more tempted to try and build two identical guitars (except for the change you listed) for this very reason. Purely for my own learning, I don't think there's an exact answer, but one of the things that gets me most excited about building guitars is the opportunity to try and test new things. Like how an LP would sound if you used a Wenge cap instead of maple, or making a strat with a bocote neck/ziricote board instead of the usual maple/rosewood or maple/maple.

    Luthierie isn't a science, I think it's an art. Yes, some elements require precise dimensions etc, but the constantly varying nature of construction materials (wood), means that you can't analyse it down to percentages. Kind of like cooking, there's no one recipe for a great-tasting dish (or great sounding guitar), but the most fun I have cooking is when I experiment with new ingredients and see what happens. Ok, there may be some times when it doesn't quite taste right, but using my past experience making food, I know what flavours can work together to try and save it by say adding a few herbs. I reckon it can be the same for guitar building, building up experience, and building on tried and true guitar recipes (like the old Maple/Hog body, Hog neck Gibson recipe!). I know that's pretty much repeating Drak and Rich, but figured I'd throw down anyway :D

    Hmm, after my semi-related food comments, I'm hungry... :D

  5. my fiancee's dad has an old handmade jazz box. it's crap but it is of sentimental value to him and having it fixed would be a pretty decent christmas present for him. the neck is very bent (upwards) and it doesn't have a truss rod. any suggestions? anyone? please?

    Buy him socks. You won't fix a neck bent like that without a truss rod. It's the reason they're put in guitars.

    Edit: Or listen to Setch. Far more knowledgeable than I is he.

  6. The $100 is just the surcharge for the body routing. You actually have to purchase a Line 6 Variax and strip the electronics out of it in order to be able to build your own Variax. I wonder if there'd be a lucrative enough market to buy Variaxes and just part 'em out on eBay.

    I really doubt it - you'll get decent enough coin for the circuitry/bridge, but you won't sell many, plus variax replacement bodies aren't really in demand - no-one wants that much routing without the circuitry that you've just sold to someone else. And as for the neck, they're the first thing most people change (and where Warmoth started doing their variax business), so I don't think many would buy them.

  7. I was in Portland in May and stopped at Apple Row music, and they had a guitar that was lime green, with a lime green fretboatrd(gloss). I already went to their website, and googled for some info, but I cant find out what brand it was. Not really interested in the guitar itsself, but how they finished the fretboard. I have a friend of mine that wants an ALL red tele, including the fretboard(matched to the body) and I was curious if anyone either has seen what Im talking about, or knows how to do such a thing. I believe Vintage guitar mag had an article with a red explorer style guitar with a red fretboard, but I cant find the issue(less than a year ago) Ideas?

    Use a bloodwood top and fretboard would be the easy answer, or you could use stabilised dyed wood (Larry at Gallery Hardwoods can do that for you).

  8. I've been thinking of doing a neckthru or a setneck with a really long tenon (maybe back to the bridge), and I'd probably to it with 2 HB routes and a strat-type trem route. Would all of this routing make doing a neckthru/long tenon moot because so much would end up getting routed out anyway?

    Maybe I'm just worrying too much :D

    What do you think? :D

    I think you're worrying too much. If it's stable enough for a neck through/deep-set, then it'll be stable enough with a standard strat-trem rout. As for the tonal effect of removing the trem wood, I don't think it'll have that great an effect either.

  9. Ok. I finished off this design and started on a few prototypes with some spare wood i had.

    Theres two of them, One with a carved top (not to the depth i would have liked due to the thickness of the maple top) and one with a flat top and a bevel. I was just trying out different ways of doing things. One has a maple neck and the other a wenge neck, both with nice cocobolo fretboards. Neither are anywhere near finished and have marks all over them, but hey. thought i'd let you guys see what i've been doing all weekend. first time since like june i've had chance to do anything!

    Very nice, I like the body style and the choice of woods!

    Just one question - is it me or is there a little 'bump' on the butt of the body on the first one?

  10. okay, so my work table is about 3' off the ground, so my feet are safe.

    my hands are both on the router handles so they should be safe, as long as i hang on.

    so what other appendage(s) would be 3' off the ground....................................................

    ..............................................................OMG, holy shiznit! I ain't NEVER gonna use it like that!.....I PROMISE!

    :D

    I hope you're referring to your crown jewels as being 3' off the floor....

  11. wow.. I don’t know why I feel I have to validate my self, but..

    1. it was plywood

    2. I know what MDF is made of, and I also know what’s in cigarettes(witch, unlike MDF, are PROVEN to cause cancer).

    3. I wanted the radio, bright light, and warmth, NOT the TV. my roommate was watching TV.

    4. Many people on this board don’t wear respirators to sand a piece of maple, witch, in my experience, is more of a irritant then plywood. I wear a mask

    5. I’m more worried about my roommate eating ramen or 7 year old jelly then I am him being around plywood dust. Especially because he works in a hardware store and recently moved to Millwork.

    6. have you seen how much dust comes off a dremel? its not a table saw.

    You know, wood is dangerous, so is driving in your car. In fact, leaving your house is almost a guaranteed way of putting yourself in harm.

    see you guys later, Im on my way to a kindergarten class to juggle loaded pistols

    You should have lurked more.

  12. I haven't explained myself very well obviously. I've drawn a diagram but as images can't be uploaded here I'm trying to sort out a place to host it....I'll be back!

    ok, if thise has worked you should be able to see what I mean....

    The red line shows the glue line...the blue parts are the grooves cut along the glue line so that the clamps aren't in contact with any glue

    Would possibly work, but then the groove would only be in the right place for that one time, and every time you glued wood of different widths you'd have to cut another groove or make new bars. Seems way more complicated than just putting a couple of layers of parcel tape down, or gluing on a set of plastic covers....

  13. exactly!...if the join is in the centre & the clamps have a groove in the centre running along the glue line then they won't make contact with the join or any glue :D

    Look at this picture:

    DSCF0443.JPG

    You can't run the glue line along the clamps - the clamps wouldn't put pressure on the joint holding it together that way. You method just won't work.

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