i-j-c

OK..a two part post. 1. When I used to make guitars many years ago...the biggest problem I had was making a radius on the fingerboard. In the end I made my own kind of jig/tool...which works perfectly. I still have these tools today.. Anyway...I made it using hardened steel...I had a radius cut in the steel by my father - and two locating holes taken from where I wanted them on a block of wood...I then cut a slot in the block and inserted the steel scraper...and screwed in place...I did it this way for easy removal for sharpening. The centre point on the radius sat at the flat of the block of wood. The reason for this was simple...so when I had cut down the radius...I knew I was done..because the block of wood would then be sliding on the fingerboard surface...and would no longer cut. The tool was used by moving it back and forth along the length of the fingerboard...it always came out leve...as when the block of wood touched the surface...and high spots would by taken down until it cut no mre...so everytime I had a perfectly level fingerboard...a diagram below is included. I have 10 blocks ranging from radius 12" to 22"...they were perfectly simple...and because it was tempered hard steel..it could cut anything..ebony, maple you name it...it also reduced the need for much sanding...here is a diagram which explains it better: This leads me onto the second part. On my two projects I am starting I want a compound radius...I intend getting a blank...and starting with the tighter radius work my way down the fingerboard...but I am nt sure how this will work as I am concerned about too much taper off at the end.. Any of you know any decent tips for compounding...I know you can get these ready made from stewmac...but as always, I like to experiment and do completely myself... Cheers, Ian

As I said..it's not ideal for that sort of thing..though I do have two friends..who still use the same guitars today gigging, with that wiring I did for them back in 1986...it's second nature to them now...they're old a decrepid like me...and sit doen most of the time...so that might be the answer..haha ..(though I might add it did not take 18 years to get used to..)....I've since (1986) done more than 20 circuits like that for gigging guys.. I'll give anything a try....!

Heck..I'm way too old a decrepid to argue... I just like to experiment that's all...and not with just wiring...it's a hobby for me that's all...but I've said what I said..so no point in rewriting history.. Anyway...if I can post anything that anyone finds remotely useful (for whatever reason)...great..if not..fine, no probs...I have a life! I have a number of mods I have made over the years...not just wiring...some have been used...some not...most have...and are still being used..I'm happy to post that stuff...if anyone finds it useful......if not...fine.. Way too old guys...just take it easy... Cheers, Ian

Well tonight I had some fantastic news that I wasn't expecting... Mynewest brother in law has been over...he's an artist and has a rather large country place with outbuildings..some of which are studios...he's offered me one of the outbuildings as aplace to work..for free...! Wow! I work in IT and I have to admit I am getting fed up sitting behind a desk...I want to get back to working with my hands again....and this is great news. I plan to make a cottage industry out of building my own creations....and hopefully turn to that full time...so I am well chuffed. The place is available for me now...so my plans will be getting started quicker than I thought... ...and here's me thinking I was going to be working in my 6x4 shed to uild my first two projects...

Okey dokey...I'll do you a few configurations now that I know you have a f way too... Leave it with me...you'll have them over the weekend sometime mate...

No problem...just tell me: How many volume and tone pots you have Are any of the push/pull pots DO you have a three way switch presently And the diagram is as good as done...

To look cool ??????? First...I don't play bands anymore...just for personal pleasure. Secondly to look cool...umm nope...the micro switches are hardly visible anyway...and fit in the space where the regular strat switch goes....that's it. One thing though and that pickup selection this way is probably not ideal for a live stage performance...unless you are used to the switch positions...so out goes the cool theory..it's just experimental...that's all. Also, I have neither had a Jag or want one and have not been through 'any phases' - whether to be cool or not... To answer what's the point - I just like to experiment with wiring...to see what's possible, what sounds you can get...that's all...I did this originally way back in 1985...and it was most certainly not for looking cool...what utter crap! I was just sharing ideas as I thought this was a forum for that...! Anyway for the guy who asked parallel/series...here's a long explanation On a stock Strat, pickups are wired in parallel at the "2" (neck/middle) and "4" (middle/bridge) positions. It is just a modification which not only allows you to select pickups in any combination, but to select whether they will be wired in series or parallel. I consider this one of the most useful modifications possible (after shielding). Without going too deep into the theory we can say that series vs. parallel pickup wiring affects the final tone in a couple of ways: 1. Pickups typically have an impedance of about 4k to 10k ohms. When the pickups are in parallel, each is a fairly low impedance inductive load on the other. In short, each pickup is effectively a primitive high-pass filter between the other pickup and the amplifier. When the pickups are in series, they do not load each other and the filtering effect is much less noticeable because the variable impedance component is now in series with the (typically quite high) input impedance of the amplifier. 2. The above mechanism also has a noticeable effect on the output level of the pickups. In every case that I've tried the guitar is noticeably "hotter" when the pickups are wired in series. Again, this is because the pickups are not acting as a load on each other. 3. The effective inductance of two inductors (coils) is radically different when those inductors are wired in series than it is when they are wired in parallel. Inductance is one of the factors that modifies frequency response. 4. Depending on how sensitive the first gain stage (stomp box, amplifier, etc.) is to impedance and inductance, the actual difference in tone between series and parallel wiring may be subtle or very noticeable. Inductance is similar to resistance in that the total inductance is simply added when inductors (pickups) are wired in series -- but you take the product over the sum for parallel inductors. Let us say simply for the sake of argument that each of the pickups has an inductance of 10mh (inductance is measured in Henries, or more commonly, in millihenries): * In series, our total inductance will be 10mh + 10mh -- or 20mh. * In parallel, our total inductance will be (10mh X 10mh) / (10mh + 10mh) = 100mh / 20mh -- or 5mh. Remember, inductors work just the opposite of capacitors -- they tend to impede high frequencies while passing low frequencies. Of course, it's not quite this simple because the pickups aren't simply inductors -- each is also generating a signal. However, I'm sure you can see that tonal response will vary quite a bit depending on whether the pickups are in series or parallel. It's difficult to reliably quantify this difference but I'll go out on a limb and describe pickups wired in series as having a bit more midrange punch than the same pickups wired in parallel. Usually. No guarantees. So, which is better? Unfortunately, that's one of those questions that has no answer. The sound of the two methods is just different. Keep in mind, though, that most pickups were designed with the idea that they would be combined in parallel by the stock wiring and that is the "sound" the pickup designer was striving for. I would recommend that you wire Strat pickups in parallel if you aren't going to provide switching between series and parallel. On the other hand, I regard the ability to switch between series and parallel wiring as one of the most tonally useful modifications you can perform -- much more useful than pickup phasing, in most cases (though combining series and out-of-phase wiring produces very interesting results in some cases). Wiring the Humbucker: Most humbuckers have the two coils of the pickup wired in series. With four-wire humbuckers you can install a switch to change between series/parallel wiring for the humbucker coils. If you aren't going to use a switch, series wiring of the two coils will provide the "intended" sound and usually a "hotter" output. Hey! What Happened to the Sound? When coils (or pickups) are wired in series you have to short across one coil (or pickup) to turn it off -- you still have to provide a complete circuit for the other coil or pickup. With coils or pickups wired in parallel you have to open the circuit to a coil (pickup) to turn it off -- shorting the coil will short all of the coils when they are in parallel. Sorry to bother you, just sharing ideas that's all..

Perhaps..you could lime the wood then either wax it or laquer...but therein may lay a problem as liming requires a good grain to fill...I do not know how this will work with hard maple..also, this would not be a lasting finish...unless lquered.. Another idea as the plague says is to bleach the wood...but you may loose definition of the flame.... Another idea is to make a wash...dilute white paint to the point that it is only thinner...then build up to the required shade/depth...then laquer...but you would need to make it very, very thin...and apply it with a rag... Difficult to obtain I would think either way...but try several methods on some scrap and see how it turns out.... btw, I'm no paint guy...it's just what I would do to try...but good luck if you try... Cheers,

Have any of you guys used the 12 way strat switching...?? All the strats I used to build a long time ago...I made this switching using micro switches...I loved the sound.. On my current project...I will be doing this again...I have decided on my projects now and will be making another post complete with pictures on the progress/build...I'm building two at the same time..a bass and a guitar.. Anyway the 12 way switching..here is a diagram.... This modification yields 12 settings. It requires three mini-toggle switches (one is a 3-way), each relating to its own pickup. Here's what you get: # each pickup alone (three settings) # three parallel pairs # three series pairs # three pickups in parallel # three pickups in series # three pickups in series/parallel All combinations are in phase. The tone controls follow the standard Strat convention, i.e., no tone control for the bridge position. They operate on the neck and middle pickups and provide particularly interesting sounds in the series settings. please note the three way is on/on/on switch...

When I was originally building I used to get my wood from North Yorkshire..place called John Body's...they had some real nice woods.. For hardware and other bits (they sourced the single piece tiger for me to make pickgaurds)..I used to use mail order from Touchstone Tonewoods.. Though I have a lot to pick-up on the suppliers now....and the price of wood (comparing from what I used to buy) has shot up in price.. Cheers, Ian

Hey, thanks for the welcome... This site is brilliant...you have everything on here...what you don't have has probably not been invented yet.. I'm pretty interested in the supplier sections...I'll post a little more about my projects in other posts...I wish I could find some pics of my last few projects in the 80's then I could talk a little more about them... Anyway...I'm from Washington, UK...which is right next to Newcastle upon Tyne..land of Newcastle Brown Ale... Cheers, Ian

Hi, FOund this site earlier on today and have spent the last few hours reading all the excellent articles....wow, there is some brilliant info here. Anyway...little about me....I have built several guitars many years ago...the I got married...job, kids...etc, all takes it's toll. Anyway this year, I'vve decided to back to making myself a guitar and bass this year...as I've recently cleard MY shed (yes..my place, no kids or wife..yippee)...so have space to do it.. I wish something like this existed way back when I was building...was all trial and error then - the last guitar I made was 1989...alll strat based and all with tiger maple pickgaurds...but alas I have no photos any more...sold all my guitars years back.. Anyway..that'sme...pleased to get back to the swing of the things...there are many tips and tutorials on here...great reading... I'll post my projects as I go along... Cheers, Ian