TGwaH

yeah great, i too am currently on my first neck through project.  would you recomend cutting out the wings to shape before glueing them to the neck piece, so you only have routing, drilling, sanding, and finishing to do once its glued, so like, no major wood work?

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Due to the nature of my build (i.e. I'm taking a class) I decided to cut out the wings AFTER they were attached to the body as shown in the pictures. There were many various reasons for this. So I can't really make a recommendation one way or the other. Nor with my beginners knowledge of guitar building would I be so presumptuous as to make such a recommendation. However, I will say this; a neckthough has been done with the wings cut before attaching them to the body as seen in the Telehawk.

Or you could be really difficult and go with the Rickenbacker "sandwhich" method.

I apologize in advance on two counts: 1 if this has been covered before a serch turned up nothing, and 2 my grasp of electronics terminology is shakey at best so forgive me.

For my build I decided to go with the dual concentric tone pots from Stew Mac in order to reduce the knob clutter from 5 to 3. I'm wiring up in the manner of the Ric 360/12 with a blend pot.

Now, where my question comes in is this -- Stew Mac shows standard wiring diagrams for the dual concentric pots (i.e. wiring diagrams with two pots) Now, I am guessing that it would be a similiar set up just using the one pot instead of two. (I plan on wiring volume on the outer ring and tone on the inner ring). Now, am I to presume that the hooks (see, bad electronics terminology) correspond to the rings i.e. lower hooks for outer ring? And if that is the case, would I just wire up a capacitor between the upper and lower hooks as well as a wire lead? Or am I completely out in left field here.

Well, it is the dead of night and I've decided to get cracking on this. I've an idea of how to lay out some of the more important aspects and the bits to link to existing information. However, I was thinking a good place to start would be to start listing acronyms and short hand (i.e. pup, AANJ etc.) But, being that it's near 1:30 (2:30 if you don't count the time change) the ol' grey matter ain't working up to snuff. Anyone wanna throw in some common short hand/acronym terms?

I like that design. It serves a purpose rather than weird for the sake of weird. Don't get me wrong, I love weird... but I like that guitar.

spoilsport!  i was gonna lay a bunch of damp fruitloops on a piece of swamp ash and see what happened but now i'm not.

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Don't listen to him, that'll work. But you have to use homo milk at the very least. 1% or 2% just won't cut it. You need the higher fat content.

I dig the design. My only complaint is the reversed headstock. It seems to have an old school style body, with a new fangled headstock. The round of the body and the angles of the headstock seem to clash. But I think the design shows some promise.

I cant wait to see this thing done.  You thought about colors/dyes yet? dont see too many semi-hollow bodies around here.

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Thanks for the encouraging words, eh?

I've got a few ideas to try and give this guitar a Canuck look while trying to keep a Ric style feel to it. Right now I'm toying with the idea of doing something along the lines of a white to red stained burst. However, because I can't make anything easy on myself I'm also seriously considering doing a french polish, so I think there will be some experimentation needed.

I have a feeling I'm gunna REALLY like this build!! Gunna have f-holes? What shape?

Also, my first build was a neck thru too. Just a friendly tip, be 100% happy with how you have your neck BEFORE you glue the wings. I've spent the last couple weeks spending HOURS fixing my first guitar for that very reason.

Thanks Chris, I appreciate that.

I am planning on F-holes. It'll be something along the lines of a traditional f hole shape with a maple leaf in the middle. It's still in the photoshop stage, but hopefully I'll have something by the end of the day. I'll have some time at work tonight to tinker... what, it's not like I have work to do

As for the neck, luckily I'm not doing this build on my own. I've been getting massive amounts of assitance from the teacher of the course I've been taking so he'll be there to smack me upside the head to make sure I don't do anyting too stupid to the neck.

It's been a while since I've had updates. Some changes have been made as I go along. It's been quite the learning process so far.

modified ES-335 body

The more I tinkered and toyed and traced and cajoled it became less like a 335 and more Tele like. I guess the 335 just didn't sit well with me once I got the template all made up. At least not for my vision of this guitar.

custom carved ebony tailpiece

I don't know what the hell I was thinking when I wrote that. I'm having enough on my plate with my first build without making it that complicated. Man oh man. The ebony tail piece is now put on hold till a later build. I will not abandon this idea. I've picked up the 12 string trapeeze from Stew Mac it's going to look good with my set up.

ebony fretboard

Without the ebony tailpiece I decided to go back to my original idea for a maple fretboard. I've already got two wood types in play with this guitar, and want to try and keep the number down to as few as possible.

The body is still rough at this point. The horns have yet to be cut and the neck is not yet shaped or cut to size. I can't finish the body till I get the neck cut to size, and I couldn't get the neck cut till I figured out the headstock configuration.

The Ric 12 string headstock style is deceptively simple looking. Hopefully in the next week or so I'll have some more purty pictures for y'all.

EDIT: Just want to point out that line done the centre of the body is not a glue line, it's a centre line drawn in pencil.

Ummm, sorry to crash your party idchy, but I'll also be in the December GOTM, and I'm gonna storm the GOTM castle BIG time     

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Dammit you guys, don't you realize I have enough pressure with school without having to pick from among three of the best builders I've seen?

I'm still upset with Perry for making me have to think

Like last month I still couldn't decide so rather than do last month's coin flip, I tossed all my choices into a hat. My vote goes to mattia.

What are you doing entering that in GOTM? Up until now my vote was decided, it was open and shut. Now you're making me think?! How dare you... I hope you're pleased with yourself

Hmm, think that holds true for "stencil" amps too? I've got a Paul amp made by PineCo out of Montreal I was thinking of selling. Just taking up space since I got my Traynor. But now you've got me questioning myself... I hope you're happy

iirc the reason for not doing a FAQ in the past is that it ruins any chance of discussion - faq's kill conversation.

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I had thought of that, but I can't see it killing conversation anymore than telling someone to search. After all someone can always ask for an elaboration of the FAQ if they are still confused. Besides, an FAQ only covers the most frequently asked questions, there will still be millions of questions not covered in the FAQ itself.

I think Gilby Clark had a white supertele in the sweet child o'mine video. I really want one

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Other than the fact Gilby Clark didn't join GnR until after Use Your Illusion 1&2 were recorded

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Woah woah woah, are the two of you trying to say that Sheryl Crow DIDN'T write 'Sweet Child o' Mine'?!?

I was just reading up on Craig Lavin's tut on the main page (because I'm doing a rather simple inlay on my first fret board) and I gots to thinking -- StewMac can't ship CA out side of the US so I need to find an alternate source. So I turn to Lee Valley for everything I can't find.

Now, for gluing up the inlay face down Mr. Lavin uses CA from StewMac, and I'm wondering for those of you that have used it which would be most like it?

Hot Stuff or Super T & Special T? Hot Stuff has a 5 second bond time compared with Super T at 10 to 25 seconds and Special T at 30 to 50 seconds. Are those bond times too quick? Too short? Just right?

Help a brother out.

Cheers,

Jonathan

And your beer sucks, too. 

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You realize telling a Canadian our beer sucks is considered an act of war, eh?

I started writing a truss rod faq a month or 2 back and completely forgot about it, its not finished and will need checking over by someone more experienced, i sorta looked through most of the truss rod related posts and did a bit of research, and i think its pretty acurate. I could finish the last couple of bits and pass it on to you if you want. I was hoping to get some pics pics of the relevant truss rods for it, maybe a few diagrams. Anyway here's its current state...

http://www.flak.clara.net/FAQ.html

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Not bad, not bad at all

I've sent a PM about erikbojerik's excellent idea so hopefully I'll have the wheels in motion soon. Things are a bit tight right now with school and wanting to get my first build done by the new year, but if all goes well I should have a fairly decent list going and up around the same time.

Anyone else wanna throw in their two cents on this?

I'd be game for that. Mods, what do you think?

You took that line of mine a little out of context   The "do it with PM" thing had been made clear by some senior members already, and I went on to say basically what you said there about the original poster making it sound like he was investigating perry for doing something shady.

- Dan

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Sorry about that

I'm gonna have to work on my reading comprehension skills

You have a question, fair enough, and although everyone is saying you should be gearing up for a smackdown, I also beleive you have full right to ask what your asking

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He does have every right to ask the question. However, I think the problem lies in a.) the accusatory tone this particular poster used and b.) the fact that the post deals with the business of a well known and well respected member of this forum. The post would have been appropriate in a forum where you had a but not b. However, in this case it would have been preferable for the poster to contact Perry directly rather than accusing Perry with the posters very first post.

cactuscurtis you're doing yourself nor the forum any favours with this thread. Please edit your posts.

So there I was tonight sanding down my guitar body when my mind started to wander. Perhaps it was a meditative state or maybe it was lack of caffeine, but I think I've hit upon a pretty good idea.

We have people coming on to these boards asking some fairly basic questions over and over again. Rather than ignore them or tell them to search (as they may not know how to do a good search) I was thinking that everyone chips in some information about guitars; basic stuff mostly. Once the community as a whole seems to think we've got the majority of FAQ's covered, I'll distill it down into an HTML file for the main site.

Scale Length -- the distance between your nut and the saddles of your bridge. The twelfth fret should be equidistant between both.

Common Scale Lengths:

Fender

Jaguar -- 24" or 609.6mm

Strat/Tele -- 25 1/2" or 647.7 mm

Jazz Bass -- 34" or 863.6 mm

Gibson

Byrdland -- 23 1/2" or 596.9 mm

Les Paul -- 24 3/4" or 628.65 mm

PRS

Santana -- 24.5" or 622.3 mm

Tremonti -- 25" or 635.0 mm

Yeah but clarify for me, the neck through goes all the way through right? You didn't carve away under the bridge, you have a log down the middle, yes?

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Right, one giant log. No floating bridge, the only thing to be hollowed out will be the mahogany wings that will be attached tomorrow.

The people who've been telling you this, or the wolf tones?

I'd prefer the former over the latter.

Point for you

with the bridge solidly tied to the back, or at least with 1/2"-3/4" underneath it, you shouldn't have any negative side effects like that.

So, with a neckthrough design with 1/4"?... er, 1/2"? ... it's about a 5 mm cap on either side of the guitar... I should be okay?

I'm getting ready to route my chambers in my guitar and do up my version of the f-hole. I've been told to be careful as I can get unaccetable acoustics and/or wolf tones.

Any suggestions on avoiding them?