Bassisgreat

yeah crazy work !

crazy amazing!

Connor

eggsactly what I was thinking.

I see what you're saying, I was picturing mounting the strap lock on the back of the body, I don't know what that does to comfort while playing, but I've seen other guitars with that setup.

Looking forward to seeing that burst finish!!

Dude, I.Dig.It. The upper horn should not be touched! Even without the grain, I don't see why it would be "too big." I think it's a unique curve that sets off the original body design nicely.

First guitar gonna be GOTM?

That neck looks dangerously close to neck dive length. Hope that doesn't give ya any problems! Looks great! The thin body doesnt' float my boat (the bass I'm building is 14" at the lower bout, heh) but I like the design, and can't wait to see it finished!

I like it! I haven't seen another one like it, and it doesn't look gaudy, and that means, it's a cool, original design, woohoo.

Now if *I* were building it, I'd make the points on the flame tips a bit sharper and perhaps do some type of cutaway (more flames coming up toward the bridge?? you have plenty of space) to the bottom end.

It certainly has a cool vintage vibe, and I see what you are getting at. In the end, it's YOUR guitar and your opinion (at least on aesthetic design, considering it's playable and functional) is the only one that matters!

On a side note, there IS a difference between constructive criticism and acting like a jerk. Inwardly, it's about your attitude toward the person being criticized, outwardly it's about the subtleties and wording. There's no need to be insulting and inflammatory about someone else's project. This is a great forum to come to for advice and constructive criticism, and lord knows that's why I'm here... Just treat others as you'd like to be treated and everyone will be happier, I would think.

For a dude who plays in a death metal band, I'm a big ole hippie...

I love the Sapele body! It looks beautiful, great work!

Thanks Rich!

A few minutes of searching hasn't yielded any results on more info about the CA glue failures. If I find anything about that, I'll post it here.

I have a piece of spalted maple that is not that punky for the most part, but there are some parts that you can press a dent in with a pick (that was the "punkiness test" that I was recommended to check for suitability for use on a guitar) but aren't just waiting to fall apart or anything. I just don't want any nasty surprises when it comeeps to cutting or finishing it.

Does that give you any more insight as to which method you would use?

I am considering using a piece of flamed/spalted maple that I have for the top on my first bass, which I am in the beginning phases of building (just the body, bought an excellent neck for it, will try that next time...) and I would like to stabilize the wood to prevent any problems with routing or finishing. What is the best technique for accomplishing this? I've read about some methods that turners use here :

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/sh...ead.php?t=33280

However, the methods they use seem impractical for use with pieces as large as a top. (though it did get me thinking about making an acrylic vacuum chamber, but the thought of buying the gallons of finish I would have to use is daunting)

I've heard a little bit about soaking it in thin CA glue (superglue) but don't know any of the details as far as the type of glue (brand) or the best process to follow. I also read on the forum linked above that there may be problems with CA glue losing its stability after a period of time (according to the folks on the site, 8 years) and I'd like to rest assured that whatever I do use won't have any problems in the future.

Will a CA glue soaked top take an oil finish?

I searched the forum, but couldn't find the results I needed. I may not have tried the correct wording combo, so don't get too upset if this has come up before...

Dude...that looks awesome!

As for the headplate, if you can manage to get one out of Sapele, that would be ideal, but otherwise, I'd think that Koa would look great, and since the color is more similar, you may be able to let it stand alone. I may also think that because I think koa is one of the most beautiful woods in the world...

Thank you all for your advice. I'm amazed by how helpful and friendly everyone here has been already.

This is a fantastic site filled with talented and knowledgable builders that are willing to bend over backwards for folks who share this great hobby! There are also alot of beginners (myself included) that will throw out ideas using logic, but without experience. You know who to listen to...

I'll consider doing a bolt-on, but I really prefer the look and feel of a neck-through.

Now considering the above regarding my experience, I will say that I think a set neck may be a good compromise for you in terms of look and feel, while also giving you many of the tonal and ease-of-build "advantages" (differences) of a bolt on. This way you can make sure you have a neck you are happy with before you attach it to the guitar, but you will also have a smooth heel and permanent, solid connection to the body.

Edit: OH. and you may want to see if there are any mill shops in your area if you haven't already. I went to one locally here once and found a nice piece of quartersawn african mahogany big enough to make 3 2X16X22 one piece body blanks for $100! I HATED the fact that I didn't have much cash at the time, so there it sat till some other lucky soul got it.

I think the carve improved the looks alot, I'll be looking forward to seeing how this one turns out!

Looks great! Nice work.

BUT! Why did you put a Gibson logo on it?

Hmmm, dead grass + blowing stuff up... Sounds like I'd get myself into too much trouble anyhow. I don't want to be in the news for burning 30 square miles of flatland.

Wow, this is a really PRO build! Makes me want to build a (not nearly as complex or handy) travel bass...

Great work!!

You could probably sell these pretty easily, I've not seen a traveller guitar this ingenius before.

I meant the guitar looks great...

looks great, congrats on fixing the ferrule holes.

I was thinking though, that if you used magnets instead of screws, a coverplate over them wouldn't be that annoying at all, and would add a nice aesthetic touch too, IMO.

OH, and there's nothing wrong with a healthy fear of power tools!

I'm really glad you decided to keep going with this one. It's going to be beautiful!

As for wiring...wish I could help... I need to do some about that myself.

Wow, that's looking fabulous! How hard was it to route the cavity for the locking jack in that curved space?

I love the last one! The cool carving details are awesome!

All you Dallas folk should move to the country east of Austin...I make all of the noise,dust,and scrap piles I want,anytime of day or night,and have not heard a complaint yet...

I can also start bonfires,make gasoline bombs,or throw grenades....if I wanted.

Just sayin'that's all.

Your ideas intrigue me, and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter.

beautiful!

Also, dude... ... did you murder someone in that bafroom before you took the first pic?!?

Sweeeeeeet.

I would think that an appropriately sized drill bit would do, otherwise a small router bit along a template. (edit) maybe even a bit on a dremel) This is all from theory though, with no practical experience to back it up.

TEXAS GET TOGETHER IN DALLAS!!!

/just sayin' that's all.