G_urr_A

Too sharp? Heh, I use 2mm picks that I sand down until they are as pointy as I can get them. Then I have to redo that about once a week, but it's really annoying for me to try and play with soft or rounded picks...

I just thought about the possibility of adding a veneer to the back of a neck, to be able to get figure on the neck without making it too fragile. Is there any reason why you'd not be able to add vener to the back of a neck? Anyone tried?

If you want to convert a singleneck into a dblneck, I'd say you 1. Strip the finnish 2. Cut a nice straight edge 3. Glue on a piece of wood 4. Shape it until it blends nicely with the old body About the shape in general, just immitate that pic, for example, or use some common sense (not meant to sound rude) and think up your own way to put two strats together. I can't really be of any more assistance. But I'm interested in seeing what this leads to. (Oh, btw, what is the purpose of a dblneck?)

About the Body Art series, I don't think the graphics are bad quality, considering the range most ppl will se the guitar from. I wouldn't want the Bitch's Back motive though. Would feel wrong towards my girlfriend. I don't she'd let me take a photo like that of her and put it on a guitar though....

My guitar is illitterate, so it's not a problem for me... Don't know what kind of guitars you have though...

If the 24 fret neck is built for a 25 1/2" scale instrument, it will (should) work. Any time you swap necks, you might have a slight intonation adjustment due to the heels being slightly different from manufacturer to manufacturer, but if you take that 24 fret neck and measure the neck from nut to 12th fret and it's 12 3/4", then it will (should) work...dig? But these 24 fretted necks typically have an extended tongue fretboard, the heel would be at the same place a normal 22 fret, 25 1/2" scale would be. If they make the whole neck longer, including the heel, then it probably wouldn't work, because you would be moving the nut further back and THEN throwing off the scale length and intonation at the same time. The other issue is if the extended tongue fretboard will interfere with the placement of the neck pkp, if it will actually hit it. Basically, the amount of frets doesn't matter as to whether it will work for a particular guitar or not, it's all about the scale length the neck was built for in the first place...dig that? For instance...you could have a 21 fret, 22 fret, and 24 fret neck, and all would work on the same guitar body IF: the body had it's bridge placed at the proper location for a 25 1/2" scale length AND the neck was manufactured to be a 25 1/2" scale neck. You work it out by (as Saber already stated) ...by doubling the distance from nut to 12th fret. 12 3/4" X 2 = 25 1/2". So for that scale length to 'work out' and be able to intonate properly, the bridge saddles need to fall under the strings at the 25 1/2" mark (give or take a few 1/16" for intonation purposes) From what I've seen, overhangs are not that common. And what you say about necks being interchangable if scale length of the neck, and the bridge placement on the body is *not* true. The heel has to be at the same distance from the nut too. And it usually isn't, since it usually is right under the last 2 frets. So a 24 fret neck would normally have the heel much further down the neck than a 21 fret, meaning the scale length, and thus also intonation will be off.

If it's a 22 fret jackson neck, I have no idea. If it's a 24 fret neck, scale length will be off. And if the heel looks like the one on my 13yrs old KE3, it certainly will not fit.

I've been thinking of getting myself a preamp, and (maybe) a poweramp. Now, the thing is, I'm not exactly overly rich, so I'm looking for used equipment, and it's very difficult to find used equipment of these sorts here in Sweden. So, what I'm wondering is whether or not a preamp made for the US market would funtion properly if fed with 110v *50*Hz, instead of the 110v 60Hz which it was originally intended for. (Or, really, what I need to know is if it operates on AC or DC) The transformation from 230v to 110v is not a problem (as far as I can see, that is), but converting from 50Hz to 60Hz is a lot more difficult.

its supposed to be homestarrunner but its getting re-directed somehow. he didn't mean for it to be the porn-place that it is. anyway, i'd still change it stonescreed. not getting redirected. check the spelling "...starrrunner..."!="...starrunner..." sorry, tired, can't write

Even though I haven't seen a speed knob in my life, I don't think the nut you're talking about has got anything to do with the knob. Id say you put some cloth or something (that won't damage the guitar's finnish) under the knob, and pull straight out from the body. The nut you mentioned is probably one of the adjustment nuts for the pot.

To continue the metal sound off-topicness (tell us to stop when we're going too far), I'm with dave and wes, middle below high and low. My eq consists of 3 20db boosters/cutters, and I usually have the lows at +3, mids -2 and highs 0 or +1. That together with emg 85/81 gives me a rather nice slayerish tone.

I've got no experience of the real thing, but I'd say 2 9v batteries in parallel should do the trick. I did some calculations on this stuff to see what you could have come up with, and I found LEDs which required 20mA of current. Assuming you've got 12 LEDs (one for each "dotted" fret, two on 12 and 24), that means a total of 240mA current. A normal 9v battery gives 580mAh (according to the EMG website), which should then last about 2.5h. It is however very much possible that I've overlooked something. What would you use this for? If you're going to use it when practicing, I can see it would be a bitch to change batteries that often, but if you're only going to use it when gigging and such, I can't really see the problem.

Kellys are 25.5" scale (as most Jackson, except the basses, the 27"ers and possibly the sig. series.) and 24 fret guitars.

I'd say the inlay idea is really neat. Just a little piece of some cool material holding the switch in place. I guesss you could even rout a bigger hole, and glue a thin piece of a different wood in there, and put the switch in that piece. Would look cool, imo.

At home, 7am, going to school soon.

http://www.pacificsites.net/~dog/StringTen...sionApplet.html I've got 0.011-0.049 on my 25.5" guitar and I tune to Eb, which gives approx. 9kg per string. That's a lot stiffer than most people I know like, but it feels good to me.

derek: I think he wants to make a template to make cavity covers. IE a template with which he can duplicate the actual cavity cover. sorry, i'm tired, don't know if what i'm writing makes any sense...... zzz....zzzzzz gotta....zzzz go t...... to zzzz school.......

Now, back to the topic! (Sorry about hijacking)

You'd probably not want magnesium for a guitar body. Even though you're not *supposed* to spill water on a guitar, it can happen, and magnesium+water isn't exactly nice (well, ok, nice as in "nice fireworks" but not "nice skin", if you get my point). But I guess magnesium is better than for example francium, which would be pretty much suicide.

Oh, I forgot to say that I'm not that interested in EMGs for this guitar (though the sound of EMGs is attractive), mainly because I allready have a pair of 'em.

I'm getting close to putting the bits and pieces I've bought or built during the last 6 months together, and I've been thinking about the pickups. I've got 2 old jackson hbs that I was going to use, but since I'm relatively unexperienced in pickups, I thought I might try something else. The only pickups I've played are the stock pickups in my cheap Morgan strat-copy, and the jackson hbs mentioned, and a pair of EMGs. I'm interested in knowing what something else sounds like. What I'm looking for is a 2hb combo the would be able to give 1. a good clean sound, with lots of harmonics, rather acoustic sounding really 2. heavy, tight metal distortion, along the lines of Pantera, Iced Earth, Entombed and In Flames. Both active and passive are worth consideration, though I think I'd prefer passive. So, does anyone have any suggestions? What do you yourself use?

ne c'est pas, that is. (sorry, just had to....)

ok, thanks for enlightening (if that's a proper word, and it means what i hope it does) me!

I think EMG says on their website you can go on the same battery for a year if you play 2h a day, but I'm not at all sure. I've been using the same battery since may (when I got my pickups), but I play only about 1h a day. But if you just keep a screwdriver and a taped up battery near your guitar it's not a problem. Takes what? 2 minutes max, to fix. And batteries aren't very expensive.

As Derek says, EMGs without the "activeness" are not going to make a sound worth the name. I pulled my battery out a few weeks ago, to see what would happen, and even with 20db + 10db + 20db + 5 db drive, I could not get more than a tiiiiiny sound out of them (sounded about as much as sliding your hand on flat wound strings on a guitar that goes into a clean channel with normal volume). But yeah, it's theoretically possible, though rather unneccessary. You could however install a passive pickup and switch between active and passive, but I guess that's not what you wanted.