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About daveq

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    GOTM Jan 2005
  1. I recently finished a PRS clone with a Floyd (OFR). Here is a pic of it before the finish was applied. I guess I don't have a pic of it completed. Anyway, it certainly can be done. I'm a bit biased but I really don't understand most of the "put-downs" when it comes to the Floyd bridges. I grew up playing a fixed bridge guitar and switched to Floyds after about 5 years of playing. Cutting the ball has never been a big deal to me - it doesn't take more than a few seconds. Tuning a Floyd after all of the strings have been removed used to drive me crazy. I have a piece of wood that I plac
  2. Now, being a huge George Lynch fan, you'd think I would have known about that. Then again, he's endorsed and developed so many products, maybe I shouldn't be surprised. Thanks for the tips, I'll check them out.
  3. I have a friend (really - not me) who has a multi-effects processor and some floor pedals that he would like to use for two amps. He has a Mesa and a Peavey amp. He does not like to use the Peavey's preamp - he uses his multi-effects for the distortion. He uses the Mesa's preamp though (of course). So, should he be looking at using some A/B/Y's or can he use the effects loop of the multi-effects to send to the Peavey, ... ? Lots of ways I guess but I wanted to at least get the question started. I'll try to provide more details as needed. Thanks, DaveQ
  4. This caused quite a conflict last time I saw this question posted. I think the basic answer is that the SD isn't really supposed to be a COPY of the BL version. It is supposed to be Dime's SD product - and I'll leave it at that. For what it's worth, I have the Dimebucker installed in an all maple guitar and really like it. I have not tried the BL product but plan to.
  5. I know, ... what could be less inspiring, less creative, less interesting than the one millionth PRS style homebrew guitar. What can I say? I've never owned one, rarely played one, but I thought I would give this carved top thing a try. When I use the PRS name, I certainly do not claim to have reached anywhere near their level of craftsmanship - I just use it to describe the shape of the guitar. It will have: - Alder body with 3/4" quilted top - Curly maple / Wenge laminate neck (7 piece if I remember) with Wenge headstock (2 way rod) - 24 fret curly maple fretboard with wenge bird inl
  6. I'm horrible at internet sarcasm. I hope you didn't spend too much time with that. BTW - does anyone use anything other than google nowadays? Is there any way MPA can sue for the use of that word? (that's more of that sarcasm again - no need for reply)
  7. Does anyone know how to contact these people or a way to express - umm, ....... let's just call it an "opinion" directly to them? I'll try to remember not to use any sentences or groupings of words that may have been in any song ever written in my correspondence.
  8. daveq


    I've been trying to contact VWall for quite a while and never get a reply. I haven't tried calling by phone yet but I guess that's next. Is he from New Orleans? Did he go out of business?
  9. My guess (which isn't worth much in the finishing world) is that you need to bleach the hell out of it. I don't know if they use a white pigment or not - very possible. From my vast experience in dealing with this type of finish (which is one project), I'd think that a well bleached piece of wood may actually be all you need. Stain it blue, wait for it to dry, hit it with some 800 or higher and clear. I think the critical thing may be to use a true clear though. Any clear that introduces an amber effect such as shellac will tend to take away from the white that you are shooting for. I di
  10. Yes, partly. I really like the faded denim finsh that PRS uses. I wanted that in the middle and a burst (which I don't think PRS usually does on that finish) toward the edges. I'm surprised you mentioned that.
  11. Thanks. I did it mostly using an airbrush (after rubbing the first blue coat). There's more to it than that but that's the nickel tour. I'm working on finishing it up now. I hope it will be ready soon - can't wait to hear it.
  12. As much as I was wanting to do the black burst or the brighter orange/yellow colors - I totally wimped out and went with something more familiar. I'm in a bit of a time crunch so I wanted to allow more time to practice a black burst on a future project. I still want an orange quilt someday also. For this project, I went with the ubiquitous blue-burst: I'm so boring and predictable it's disturbing. Maybe next time. Thanks for the input. See ya!
  13. Yes, it definitely can. With any figured wood, I always take off a tiny amount with each pass. I just tap the adjustment wheel, lock it and send it through. Over and over again. If it looks like you're not going to be able to avoid tearout even with tiny adjustments, stop before 1/32 to 1/16 of final thickness and sand the rest of the way. I don't normally have to sand but it does depend on the wood.
  14. Very often it "appears" as though more birds are visible. I think it's more of an illusion in that the planing just clears things up and doesn't actually uncover more. It's possible that more are actually uncovered but mainly, it's the cleaning up of the surface that makes it look more figured. To sum it up, planing it will make it look better. If you kinda/sorta like it now, you should feel more confident about it after it has been planed. No guarantees though.
  15. Here's a pic of the guitar as it is now: No points for creativity on this - just trying to put together something in the neighborhood of a PRS. I did do a more aggressive carve though - just something I wanted to do. I have more pics but they aren't on the web yet. I have a feeling that I would need to layer the black dye over some clear to get it right but I could be wrong. I wasn't able to turn up anything on this search or on mimf. I get a lot of results for the word "burst" and "black" but nothing that I could find for "black burst". So, any opinions on what might look good
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