Cam
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Posts posted by Cam
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on the last pic it looks like your neck has warped?
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sounds pretty mad man
can't wait to see this one
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guitar kits aren't usally the best. either the neck or the body is usually screwed up somehoe
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First off its only the body and neck,
Second, lots of guitars start off at 99c, search guitar and click sort by Price: Lowest to Highest, there will be heaps, they get all those last minute bids that brings the price up a couple hundred dollars. You watch that item and see how much it goes up before it finishes...
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You'll need
A Bandsaw or a jigsaw (bandsaws work better for cutting the body shape)
A Router
Drill Press
Fret Files
Templates
Fret Hammer
Rasps
If you get the cheapest stuff around all these tools would maybe cost $200- $300
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Alder Body Blank
Birdseye Maple Neck Blank
Purple Heart fretboard
Pickups
Electronics
Tuners
Bridge
Accesories (knobs, plates, fret wire etc)
All this stuff will then cost you at least another $200- $300 depending on the quality of the parts you buy and where you buy it from....
So without any tools or supplies you should be looking to about $600, but if you plan to build more guitars in the future I strongly recommend you do not buy the cheapest tools around.
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well i went to home deepo yesterday to get som suwdust and i saw sum under this big saw they had so i asked this guy hoe much it would cost to get some but he told me i could take as much as i wanted for free. so i was all like cool and i put a bunch in my pockets but when i walked out this manager guy got all in my face and was wanting to see what i had in my pockets and he said i was stealing thier sawdist. i treid to tell him that the guy said it wuz free but he said i was lieying and called the cops and the cops showed up an took me to jail even though i told them the the one dude said i culd have it free. but while i was in jail they had a bunch of sawdus therer that the put on the floors and stuff... i dunno why but whever. so i would have took some but they took my close and all i had was this jump-suit thing with noe pockets so i couldnt take any, but i asked the guy in charge if i could have some whem i left and he said ok... but then when i was leaving i forgot to take sum cos they just kicked me out real fast and they said the home deep droped the shof-lifting charge but they were keeping the sawdust i took for evedence or sumthing...
:haha::haha::haha: thats funny lol i was laughing for ages.
Also ur ritin is very hard 2 read all lik dis...
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All measurements are in mm
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true,
I would say you would have to some how take the neck off and add shims underneath the neck, so that the neck sits flat or still has a slight angle, it all depends on how you like your action.
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there are also Les Paul Floyd Roses, but they are very rare and hard to get, plus you already have your floyd.
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you can't move the neck closer, or further away. You will stuff up the intonation and have tuning problems. You can put a shim or something in the neck pocket to make it flat with no angle. You will have to put the bridge so that the saddles of the hardtail bridge matches up with the bridge where the strings first meet the tom. or you can move the neck a hole lot back and put the bridge where the tailpiece used to be.
To get the correct scale length, you must measure from the nut to the 12th fret and then double that to get the scale length. This is how far your bridge must be from the nut.
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Hi all,
Does anyone have an Ibanez edge or routing template which they can measure for me?
Also are all Ibanez edge bridges use the same route in the body?
I need to know all measurements for these Ibanez bridges, either the bridge itself or the routing template measurements...
Ibanez Fixed Edge
Ibanez Double Edge
Ibanez Edge Zero
Ibanez Edge Pro
I would think the Edge, Edge II and Edge III would be the same?
EDIT: Would they/ any fit into the Floyd Rose routes?
Thankyou in advance...
All measurements are appreciated!
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http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=969796
This is a tutorial i made on UG because of questions like these, it should help out a fair bit.
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What!?
I didn't get to vote! It says i've already voted?
And I haven't voted, thats for sure.
EDIT: My favourite was Daniel's acoustic, normally I don't like acoustics that much but I just love the wood on the back, sides and neck. Fantasitic work Daniel!
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ok...
I kind of had an idea of designing my own bridge for a les paul, but i'll see how that goes over time
With the inlay idea, i like jmrentis's idea and get MOP strips or do kinda like what Perry Ormsby did on that bass guitar with crushed MOP inlay material, although that may be a bit hard...
Heres the boxes
i might do something similar to the jackson shark fin zigzag idea but with rectangle corners^^
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But i want inlays
I do actually need inlays to know what fret to play, after all isn't that their purpose?
I thought clear inlays might be cool cause it will still show the awesome wood grain and you could kinda still see what fret your on....
Or.. I guess I could use wood for inlays, like if i have a flamed maple fretboard with the flame going vertically the inlays going horizontaly.
What would you guys do in this situation...
Theres the plan... The black squares on the fretboard are for the clear inlays.. (if they work) and yes i realize they are not all straight.
What would you guys do for inlays... I would've/ want to do black acrilic or MOP inlays but if possible I want to be able to see a lot of the wood grain...
I have considered the same inlays used on the Gibson DC
http://www.gibson.com/en-us/Divisions/Gibs...ornDoubleCutBV/
But inlays in black?
Opinions and suggestions please...
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This is slightly off task. But its kinda still got to fo with fretboards,
How does clear acrylic inlays look on a figured fretboard? Would you be able to see the wood grain still or will it just be glue?
I'm trying to "draw/ create" a guitar in MS Paint... So far it looks alright, I guess...
I'll post up a pic up of it when i'm finished. Can anyone recommend another program on the computer which I can create my own 'creations', like experiment with different pieces of wood for fretboards etc.
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Hello,
a friend of mine had the same problem and he had to make those parts himself as he could not find a suitable replacement (they seem to work!)
I live in Spain and we also have a hard time when we need some items like this. I know Woodcraft has many options but they don't ship internationally (outside the US). Good luck anyway!
What did your friend use?
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Well...it's hard to keep on task when the person who starts it isn't motivating the conversation...
As from the start...it has been difficult to know what the point and motivation of the thread actually is !?!?
IS the point as with most threads in that you want assistance with a particular project...or is it a bit of market research into some "product" aspirations (it does happen a fair bit)...
In a more recent contribution...you posted a bunch of guitars all with fairly conventional fretboards, all but one a typical dark rosewood or ebony.
I have returned to what I thought was the subject time and again...the more recent drift is because a very relevant entry in GOTM very much features a figured and unusual 'board. Similarly, I have posted pics of some exotic ideas and others have alluded to some interesting recent builds with laminated boards.
Well...that's great...what is this wood, have you a pic of this wood....you want to build a les paul...but the picture is again a conventional LP fretboard (in fact all of your offerings so far have been conventional gibson boards with most of the wood hidden below substantial block markers)...
Got to give us something to work with or the discussion will wander or die out...no point in complaining really.
I know about the headstocks and the fretboards...Its the program i used, do you guys know of any other good programs which offer different fretboards and stuff?
This is just criptic...what does this mean?
ok, i see what you mean....
I started this thread to ask what woods i can use as fretboards, as I do plan to do a few projects.
With the guitars I posted I was using the Kiseake and the Jackson custom shop programs which do not offer other fretboards, and im not very experienced with drawing/ designing stuff on the computer. I do not actually know what fretboards i will use, i was going to experiment with different figured woods etc. Those guitar pics were mostly to get you guys opinions on the bodies etc and give me some tips.
Woods: I'm not to sure exactly what woods I have yet, all I know is that it is good hardwood. When i asked about some wood it was late night and we couldn't really walk out to the shed out in the paddock. I was actually told some of the wood species and all I remember is that it was good for guitars. I will have wood for the neck and body and i could try it out with the fretboard, although i plan to get some figured tops from ormsby for the guitar tops and fretboards.
Thanks for the help psw i'll try motivate it a bit more and good luck in the GOTM anyway
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Not really related but on the band saw you guys were talking a bit about 3 wheel and 2 wheel bandsaws, is there any difference on which type you have?
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not being rude or anything,
but did you even read my initial post? i gave exact details on the whole guitar including colors hardware color and stuff.
it seems you just post random stuff on any thread sometimes.
and my question was what kind should i use, not where can i get it. i have many options, i just need to decide.
Oh yeah sorry....
I dont know to much wood species unfortunatly But with the crimson swirl a reddish wood or ebony would look nice for the fretboard although the inlays wont stand out. A maple fretboard would make the black inlays stand out but the maple wont go to well with the body colour... Maybe if you use the pink mop inlays on a ebony or reddish wood fretboard. I think pink mop inlays would look nice on a red fretboard but maybe not with the body colour?
Good luck anyway
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second time this has turned into a discussion thread way off task
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Well I was planning on building the drum sander and a few other tools needed like a fret press, sanding station (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Neck,_fingerboard/Luthiers_Friend_Sanding_Station.html),and a few other small things.
So if i use all spare wood and offcuts to build those tools I may buy a cheap planer although my dad's friends a cabinet maker and he may have a thickness planer, come to think of it we may have one in the shed lol, probably not but the shed is full of stuff, we used to have a massive shed before we moved filled with every tool you could think of, perfect for a luthier but when we moved dad sold a bit of the tools oh well haha...
Anyway I have a the bandsaw (need to replace rubber wheel thingys), table saw, router, dremel, drill press, Do I need anything else besides the planer and drum sander?
What I think you guys are saying is that the drum sander is better?
Drum Sander:
Pros- Can do all types of wood, makes wood smoother than what a thicknesser will do(?), easy to build
Cons- Takes longer to take off wood
Thickness Planer:
Pros- Takes wood off faster
Cons- Can't be used on figured woods, woods not a smooth as can be after going through sander(?) << i suppose i could just sand it with a handheld sander?
EDIT: I just saw this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/How-To-Build-a-10-T...idZp1638Q2em122
Its plans for a 10" thickness planer. Is 10" big enough? If not i supose i could just make the frame thing bigger?
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ok..
When you open up your bandsaw to replace the blade there are those rubber bands which go around the wheels on which the blade runs on, where can i buy these? Mine hasn't been used for a while so they have all fallen apart. I live in AUS, does anyone know where I can purchase these?
Thanks
English Walnut 5 String Bass
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
Very nice! I love the figure on the walnut