Sambo

the delay is there with or without a midi controller. Its just the V-amp being slow.

To decrease the delay, keep your cabinet sim the same on both presets. keeping the amp sim the same makes it even better, but isnt much use! Effects don't make much difference.

S

If all you use is a little bit of delay, why not just get a decent head with a switchable effects loop and stick a delay pedal in the back of it. Doesn't seem to me you have enough gear there to get a rack! unless ur dead set on the prophesy.

Get a rocktron midi pedal. then you can run it through a 7pin cable (no power cables etc then).

Not quite sure what the point of two power amps is. Just makes it heavier and larger.

Only thing i'd be sure of, as with all rack systems is your wiring. Make all your cables yourself. Make them the perfect length with as little slack as possible. Keep power and signal cables on separate sides of the rack (i have power on the left, signal and midi on the right). That should keep the noise down.

S

I've been doing this for a few years now. I cut the pickup wires very short and put a 3 pole connector on the end, and have the cut piece of pickup wire with the other side of the connector going into the electronics cavity. Works well.

S

Right. Anyone doing a physics major here?

I think the thing many people forget is that a string isnt just vibrating in one way, its more than one (hence why you get more than one harmonic when you pluck a string). Now, if your pickup is under a harmonic node, where there is NO vibration at that exact point, then your pickup IS NOT going to pick up that harmonic. Hence, you get less harmonics in your sound under a harmonic node. The neck pickup in a 24 fret guitar is probably under a harmonic node, but maybe not one thats audible under normal conditions anyway, so the difference might not be as noticable.

As for the difference being more closer to the bridge ya get, i can see that.

And just for reference, the human ear isnt a useful tool for assessing tonal constituents of a guitar signal. Get a decent oscilloscope.

But to be honest, the actual difference is negligable in any ways. It, as with most things in building and choosing guitars is a matter of taste.

S

PS: OOOOOOOOOH --> http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponseDemo/index.html

Right... the 22 vs 24 fret theory goes as follows.

If you have a 22 fret guitar, the pickup is effectively under where they 24th fret would be. Now, this is a harmonic node (as the 12th fret etc are). Now the theory goes that if you place under the 24th fret (ie you have a 22 fret guitar) you loose some of the harmonic qualities as the pickup doesnt pick certain parts of it up. How much of this is true, how much is voodoo is up to you, but they do certainly sound different.

In terms of your 26-27 fret axe. its dooable. PRS did one in their early days, Caparsion make them and i'm sure a few other companies do too. Be aware it will sound different. Obviously, the closer you move the pickup to the bridge, the more like a bridge humbucker it will sound. Think of a strat... the middle pickup is somewhere between the bridge and neck in terms of tone. move it either way, and it will get closer to the sound of the pickup its closer to.

And for what its worth... i prefer the 24fret guitar neck pickup tone to a 22fret one. think it sounds more... rounded and less wooley!

S

I'd first check with your doctor/physiotherapist if you've actually damaged anything in your hand. Don't wanna have broken yer scaphoid and not know about it (that's bad!).

But then, the petrucci rock discipline is good for actual technique and building up strength, and also, try gripmasters (www.gripmaster.net). Work well... start at the lowest tension one and work up.

S

Nice woods... Nice name... not sure why you'd wanna be called after a bacteria... but hey! all to their own!

Good luck with it... keep us updated

S

I'd imagine you do it pretty much the same way as you do a swirl top, except from ur making a block of resin to carve the body out of (ie liquid clear resin and swirl colour into it and let it set, then make axe body out of it)

S

http://www.spaltbasses.com/henry1.html

Now that's soooooo a musicman neck

S

Dude, tell us what gear you have access to!

S

If you want wireless, pop across to mouser. There's alot of chipsets that will do what you want. But, as with anything wireless... BATTERIES DIE! But whats the point when you have a wire to your guitar anyway?

S

Oops.

Yeah quite alot of people don't like the electronics bits of making guitars.

In terms of isolating pots from the shielding, you dont need to do that. The pot casing SHOULD be grounded, hence why the usual practice is to solder ground wires to the back of the case. Get a multimeter and test it, you'll find the whole of the pot (including shaft) are continuous electrically. If the pot is touching the shielding, then you can just ground the shielding.

Seriously... Look at an article on guitarnuts (guitarnuts.com ) called silencing the beast. It's done on a strat, but the pronciples apply to any guitar.

S

Oh and as for recording direct, don't. Unless you have a recording out AS WELL as the mics and can mix the two.

S

Boss dd3, 2x 5150mk1 heads into two 2x12's with SM57's just off axis 6-7inches away.

And the drop tuning shouldn't make too much difference. If you have a meaty heavy sound, it'll sound heavy and meaty in standard tuning.

Try a boogie MKIV.

S

No. If you're pots make good contact with the aluminium (i'd rather use copper tape.. bit better IMO) then you just need to ground the actual tape. Guitarnuts has a good tutorial on it if you google it.

Oh, advice. Not advise. You need advice and you advise another person.

Ahem.

Sorry.

S

ok ok ok.... i know USB stands for universal serial bus, but why in gods name would you want to put your guitar signal down a usb cable?

S

is a USB cable code for something or am i missing something bloody obvious?!

S

Sorry samuel, But if i plugged the 'nice banjo' into any guitar amp of mine without the footswitch etc i still wouldnt be able to use my bridge humbucker. By its output to the ring, you're grounding it with a mono cable.

S

Last bit confused the hell out of me!

A standard spdt (on-on) switch will switch neck to bridge pickups. But i'm confused what the rest of it was about!!

S

Sorry just noticed the diodes are the wrong way round on the diagram. Ooops.

S

Thomann sell Sommer's 'The spirit XXL' cable which is my fav cable. They sell it in lengths, so just solder yer neutriks onto it, best cable ever ....

Well not really. If you want the absolute best, and are willing to pay.... www.lavacable.com

They have a decent range to choose from... But are a bit pricey for some of em.

And Monster cables suck (only my opinion if anyone wants to buy some.... )

S

Right, Satch uses an adjustable crybaby (the 535Q if memory serves), no morleys near him. Two wah's in series, moved in opposite directions will give you a more 'vocal' quality to your sound (an SRV trick ). In terms of finding a resistor for modding this, i dont think you'll be able to tease much more out of a morley than is there by mods. If you look at the design of modern morleys, they havent really changed much at all in the past tenish years. The basic design has just had addons whacked on it (buffers, switching, boosts (tremonti wah), Contour controls (BH-2)). In terms of modding, the crybaby is the much more modifiable pedal. You might wanna get an old one off fleabay to have a play with. Theres alot more material on the net for that kind of thing.

S

Ok...

Fet switching guitar pickups! ha ha ha This is a quick idea when i really should be revising!!

The guitar:

The footswitch:

Power comes from a 9v battery onboard. THe current draw from the fets and the inverter (use a cd4069 or similar) isnt very high so the battery should last a fair time. You could even add flashy LED's if you want

The basic idea is the input (9v) from the footswitch up a stereo cable trips two FET switches which are kept on different statuses by the CD4069 inverter. The mode switch allows usage of the 'normal' pickup switch or the footswitch, and the inverter switch changes which of the pickups is active in each footswitch position.

I've left one pole on the footswitch so you can sort out your amp footswitch stuff on that. Use a 3 pole switch if you want LED's and such.

Cheers

S

A relay (in the guitar), a stereo axe cable and a little stomp box is all that would be needed. Basically, you need to wire the footswitch to turn on the relay (takes place of the switch on yer axe) and change the amp channel when you thump it. Let us know what amp you're using and can help you out there. I take it you want a footswitch to change both?

If you're not adverse to the idea of FET switching (some people don't like it) then you could do it with a battery in your guitar (a relay isnt really do-able with onboard batteries... takes up too much power).

S

Morley pedals do have a sound of their own. I've got a few of em, and its a question of whether its you or not. Some people think they sound a bit sterile compared to the crybaby. I'll admit the crybaby is a more versatile pedal (morley pedals, the modern bad horsie, pro series II wahs just do not do funky wikka wah sounds), but to my ear, for modern lead oriented shred, they are a far superior pedal (Mr Vai agrees with me ya know ).

Just my advice, if you too want something that sounds more crybabyish, buy a crybaby. But mods to these morley pedals are pretty easy assuming you can solder.

S