Jump to content

ooten2

Blues Tribute Group
  • Posts

    325
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ooten2

  1. I didn't know 8 ounce bottles were available. Thanks for that.

    I have trouble with the oil developing a skin on top before I use up a 3 ounce bottle. You can break through the skin and get to the oil underneath, but then you also get little blobs of oil skin on your project that you have to remove. I guess how fast you use it up depends on how many coats and how many projects you have going. For large volumes of work, the bigger bottle would be great.

    Wal Mart is like 2 blocks from my house, so factoring in driving costs or shipping costs to save a couple of bucks on a bigger bottle, I don't know that it would save much $ for me, but I certainly see your point.

    That neck looks very nice! Great job!

  2. Yeah, I totally agree, whatever works. It's all personal preference.

    I still did some fine sanding after using the microplane thing, but the surface was reasonably smooth. It probably wasn't as smooth as a routered surface, but close. I've only used it on the mahogany, so I don't know how it will perform on harder woods.

    I like the speed of routers, but you have the tear-out possibility. I like the robosander, but you have the dust. To me, this is kind of a compromise between the two. It's cheap enough that if you don't like it, it's not that big of a deal.

  3. I bought one from rockler a little while back. I rough cut a mahogany body out with a bandsaw, then used this thing in a drill press with a body template to complete it to the final shape.

    It works just like the robosander, only hogs out wood much faster. That's a good and bad thing, because it takes no time at all to do the job, but you have to be really careful not to take away too much wood. Also, could be very dangerous with the exposed blades. No tear-out whatsoever like you get sometimes with a router, and it spits out little wood shavings instead of fine dust like the sander.

    I would guess it would work well for making the forearem contours and beer belly cuts, but I haven't tried it for that yet.

    The package listed a recommended speed for your drill, I don't remember exactly what it was.

    Overall, I liked it and got good results. I'll use it again.

  4. Yeah, for less than $5, you can't beat the price for that finish. The Wal Mart closest to me is a super and they always have it. Thanks for letting us know about the 600 sandpaper, I've never tried that with Tru-oil, probably won't try it now. :D

    I've always had really good results using steel wool. Can't wait to see the pics!

  5. That blue sparkle fill looks cool. Is that an off the shelf thing or where do you get sparkle to mix in?

    Go to a hobby store, like Hobby Lobby, and look in the scrapbooking section for some stuff called embossing powder. I have no idea if that's what Drak used, but I have used that stuff to create some nice looking inlays. It comes in several different colors, and the one I used looks very similar to turquoise. In my case, I mixed it with slow-setting epoxy to get the color.

    You could also google for crushed stone, I'll bet that would look nice.

    Hope this helps.

  6. How about on mahogany? With the large open pores, would shellac first, then Tru-Oil, be a good option?

    I don't know much about pore filling, as I have limited experience with it. But to me shellac seems kind of thin for that. Epoxy maybe? Alot of others here know more about pore filling so I'll let someone else speak up on that.

    On naturally oily woods like cocobolo, the Tru-oil won't dry properly. It just gets all sticky and gummy. But if you apply a coat of shellac first, the Tru-oil dries just fine.

    Here's a link with alot of info about shellac and oil that I found helpful:

    http://www.woodworkstuff.net/KfinRude.html

    And another with a process that sounds similar to Quarter's:

    http://home.insightbb.com/~jpaquay/oil_fin.txt

  7. Tru-oil fan here, too. Great stuff. Erik that looks awesome!

    One trick I found with oily woods that normally don't do well with Tru-oil, (cocobolo as an example), try sealing with shellac first. Then go with the Tru-oil. No drying problems, and excellent results.

    But with walnut, the Tru-oil will look great all by itself.

×
×
  • Create New...