DeadJeep

I've got a Gibson Country Western Model from the 50's and an Epiphone acoustic from the 60's. Their finishes are both cracked like you describe. I'll give Co2 a try on some nito'd scraps. Thanks for the input.

I wonder if I can get my reply posted before someone tells you to do a search for this, then shove it. Autobody filler is the way to go, but not bondo. I forget the brand name, but the can is yellow and it's a two part product. There is a blue tube of hardener under the clear lid. The stuff in the can is like a dark mustard color. When you've mixed in enough hardener, the shade of green is medium. When mixed that way it's very workable four about 5 to 8 minutes. It bonds seamlessly, sands to shape easily, takes paint primered or not, and can be built up with additional coats if worked down too far. With this description you can find this product at Auto Zone or maybe Sherwin Williams. Post pics man!

Different topic all together. Thanks for reading.

I'm working on Lawsuit Les Pauls right now. One is a complete refin. I'm ready to add the VINYL decal. The decal I selected comes with application instructions warning against using lacquer as the clearcoat over the decal because of a chemical reaction that will dissolve the decal. They suggest using poly with wet sanding between coats. I'm interested in hearing from anybody who has successfully clear coated ove a vinyl decal as well as anybody's trial-and-errors.

Interesting. Is that hard to come by?

Was also wondering how they do the binding.

I was thinking they might do some of that on the back, but for the front I was considering an abrassive hand soap and fine steel wool.

Working on a few few Lawsuit Les Pauls. One is a refin. I'm wondering if anyone has seen www.gibsoncustomshop.com and knows what techniques they use to age their replicas so convincingly.

It was originally a honeyburst. Most of the wood still has an orange hue, but there are several spots that don't.

Refinishing a nice setneck Lawsuit Les by Hondo II. I saw the tutorial on adding a 1/20" maple veneer. The illustrations showed the process being done to what looks like an Ibanez Jem. AT first I didn't think I'd be able to do it to my LP because of the carved top, but with the amount on contouring there is on a Jem I'm starting to think that the job wouldn't be that much more difficult. Any input would be great.

The project is a VERY nice Lawsuit Les made by Hondo II. Every single piece of hardware is off, I've removed the fretboard, and sanded the finish off to the point where the sanding residue is all wood. The problem is that there is still a lot of stain splotches. This guitar was made considerably thinner than the real deal - a little thicker than a Nighthawk. Is there any sort of bleaching agent I can use to keep from sanding this thing down to the size of a Memphis?

Melvyn Hiscock's book shows a photo of the 90 degree black white black white, etc. binding for Les Pauls and says that you should be able to get it through stew mac, but it's not on their website. Where can I get some? Also, I was able to chip away a lot of the original binding with just my fingernail, but it looks like the rest is firmly attached. Any suggestions for removing the rest of it cleanly?

You sure? http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tutorial6.htm I suppose yours is slightly different. ← If you're referring to the article on pulling a trem post, yes it is completely different. If you're referring to another article, that just illustrates my point that stuff on this site isn't always easy to find if you don't already know where it is because I followed your link and that was the most relevant thing I noticed there. The real point of this thread is this: This board is a place where a guy making shavings on his first project with the most basic tools can post his dilemas as they arise and recieve input on it from guitar makes of all skill and experience levels. Even the most simple task can be approached innumerous ways. The guy who's pulling a bridge bushing is no less deserving of the help he can get here than the guy who broke the head off his '57 Standard. It's amazing to me that the nicer some of these people are the more they get bashed. These guys just want to get their guitars straightened out.

I'm curious as to whether or not the the tone would lose warmth by replacing the bone nut with metal. Also wondering if it will stay in tune like I think while looking smooth in gold to make it worth the project. I know that's subjective. Clearly the value of a project is based on an equasion where V= what that guitar means to you. My one year old daughter points to it and says,"That's Daddy's favorite Les Paul." Ibanez Super 70's make it scream with 10's on. It is.

The project is a set neck Hondo II Lawsuit Les Paul Custom. I play with a lot of bends and vibrato. Klusons keep it in tune pretty well short term, but after extended vigorous play it goes out. I'm considering using one of the Tune-o-Matic style bridges with fine tuners. It occured to me that, if I were to install a Floyd Rose style locking nut as part of that system, that the thing would never go out of tune period. Anybody tried this?

This is a great idea for a thread!

I'm kidding. Of course I know how. I just wanted to watch the collective blood pressure of the knowlege snobs penetrate the ionosphere. Why is it that people get so upset over newbies asking their questions in this forum? If new posts covering familliar territory pop up frequently that's a good thing. It's a sign that increasing numbers of people are taking up the art that inspires you and me. The more luthiers there are, the more experience and knowlege there is to share. Instead of condescendingly tossing a link to a general section at someone and acting like they're lucky the didn't get smacked for asking, why not find the actual answer, post a link to that, and offer the new user some suggestions on how to navigate this website and others related to the topic? I'm sure many still-learning-luthiers, I'm one, work on borrowed time. Sometimes it can take a while to navigate a site that you're still getting familliar with. There's a funt of knowlege here, but I can attest to it being difficult to locate at times. Is it that bad for someone who gets lost in search of answers to ask for directions? Learning together is easier in a relaxed and friendly community. So what if there's a few extra posts on the message boards? All the more to read through while you kill time. I say if you've got a question; ask it. Now, about those bushings, I have a little technique, one you won't find anywhere on this website, that makes it easier to get them out. 1) Score the finish around the bushings with a sharp razor blade or exacto knife. 2) Remove the bridge. 3)Take the bridge assembly off its adjustable screws. 4) Place the bridge ontop of the bushings so that their holes line up. 5) Thread the adjustable screws through the bridge and into the bushings. 6) Turn them one full turn. 7) Place a piece of soft cloth under the bridge and something thin and hard for a prying surface over the cloth. 9) With a heavy duty screwdriver or other lever, pry against the bottom of the bridge. The bushings will pop right out unless they're glued in. If you suspect that yours are glued in, insert the tip of a hot soldering iron into the bushings, hold it there for a few minutes to melt the glue, and QUICKLY repeat the steps.