wood is good

I agree with a few others here, all I have when i start is the bridge. But I use pretty much the same bridge on every build, so I already know the height and stuff.

And Doug is surprisingly inexpensive considering the level of craftsmanship...

They only send emails for every 3 replies posted.

1. If your going to build the body and neck, you need the templates first. Get your templates, then see what size wood you need according to your templates.

2. Depends on what kind of wood your looking for. Mahogany and bubigna get large enough for 1 piece bodies, walnut and alder are not that wide.

3. the scarf joint doesnt make a difference in wood size for the neck. Its still the same length either way. The only way it would make it easier is if you scared a shorter piece, and then used a different piece for the headstock.

4. Wood prices vary EXTREMELY from state to state. You have to find out what prices are like around your area.

5. Veneer on a set neck: Are you talking about putting it on a guitar that already has a neck glued in, or just a set neck guitar that you would build? If its before you glue the neck in, its no different, its fine. It would be quite hard to put a veneer on a guitar that already has a neck glued in.

Do you sell your guitars on ebay?

What wood are you staining? Most woods dont really need it, mostly softer woods tend to need it.

Still looking for that truss rod diagram though. Does anyone have it? Thanks

-Marshall

Truss rod Diagram?

Why does he want the capacitor in different places? Second, you ground it by soldering it to the back of a pot (the volume and tone metal things) Like stated above.

This is as close as your going to get..

http://cgi.ebay.com/2005-Jackson-LTD-Randy...alenotsupported

I have also been looking for the measurements of a gibson explorer and I found these 2 sites.

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=827134 <scroll down on that one.

http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/standard-...asurements.html

Not much but I hope it helps and good luck with making it.

Nah, that first one looks nothing like a WM. It looks just like the thinner ESP Pre lawsuit models.

Did Drak ever say why he left?

WHOA WHOA WHOA!!! What were you doing Wet sanding with Alcohol on a shellac finish? That's just basically stripping the guitar!

That's more than enough. That is enough to be a super strong neck joint. Think about it, Gibson uses one smaller than that, that doesnt even follow the taper of the neck. It will be more than strong.

I love the harpoon headstock on the Poke a dot V zack wylde plays.

Oh man, C'mon, Thats just horrible. Whats horrible is to relate it to Zakk playing it and not Randy! BOO

Well,

If you have a bandsaw, then whats the point of using the miter saw in the first place? Just use the bandsaw from the beginngin.

Tons of clamps like that are usually only used for gluing on tops. For gluing up body blanks, no more than 5 is needed.

Im plugging it in to the tuner. Its wierd, it shows the tuning a bit different depending on what pickup i select. I dont have anything to measure the string height with.

On the note of the frets being level enough after seating. What type of straightedge was used to measure how level the frets were. Or the fretboard itself for that matter. A hardware store grade straightedge, has a good chance of not being flat enough. A job like that needs to be done with a precision straight edge.

Well, if its not buzzing anywhere, and all the notes produce the right notes (just a few ticks off from exact) then doesnt that mean the frets are perfectly level?

I diddnt say my tuner doesnt pick up open string notes. Where did you guys get that from? I just said it doesnt pick up some. Like it wont pick up any notes on the low e untilt he 5th fret. But it does work open. Its a brand new korg tuner, its a nice one.

It could be the nut, but how would that affect the middle frets?

Its not the action, the action is fine.

Like i said, with the tuner, it only says its just a few ticks off on middle frets from being perfectly intonated. but i just sounds like its a whole lot worse than what the tuner shows.

It was a pre slotted board from LMI, so i know thats not it. The actions is really low on the high strings, but due to an inadequate neck angle, it is a little high on the bass side. Well, just the E and A strings are a bit high. I use an assemetrical neck angle, so that the high strings have a lower action.

But, this has never happened before. What gets me is that the tuner says that its not that far off when i fret those notes. but it sounds like its horribly out of tune.

It couldnt be that, i diddnt level the frets at all, they were already level. So there was no crowning done.

I have just finished my third guitar, well, a few weeks ago that is.

Only 1 thing wrong. It has horrible intonation issues!!!! When tuned to pitch, its right on at the 12th fret. But on the 5-9 frets on the A D and G strings, it sounds horrbily off. It is only off a few tics on those notes though. I dont know why its sounding so out of tune. And i cant check at the first fret, because my tuner doesnt pick up those notes. Any tips?

I dont think thats really good fret access. Thats 4 frets you cant reach, wich makes them really pointless.

After looking forever, i realized my main site for wiring updated thier stuff, and now offer the diagram i need. Thanks though Geo!

Would this work? If i just run those wires to the toggle instead of the blade like in the pic?

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-tech/10709...me-no-tone.html

AWWWWEE!! Dang, i have searched the web for weeks already. I cannot find this wiring diagram for 2 hums and a 3 way toggle. Everything needs the tone. Please help me out! how can i wire this?

Just send him a PM

Sorry to hear that. Im sure comfort over the net is hard to grasp or express. I never knew any of my grandparents. they all died when i was young. Just keep those good memories you had of her.