wood is good

Great! then! And cavity is same size as regular hum?

Yes... THey are identical besides the pole pieces being at a different spacing.

What about from the jack? Where did you ground the ground from the jack?

Ive tried to use Epoxy. I scuffed the plastic binding sides, but There was NO adhesion at all. After the epoxy was dry, It just flaked off from the plastic binding.

Can you get a better pic of the wiring? It looks like you dont have the switch grounded to either of the pots.

It is VERY doable. There is even a tutorial on the main site:

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm

Why did you post this again?

Like I said, not positive on the thickness. An 1/8" difference on the thickness you won't really feel, but could cause trem issues.

NO NO NO

Im sorry Ihocky, I meant to quote Narcs post, not yours. Yours is correct. Sorry for the confusion.

I'm not positive on body thickness but I think they are about 1-3/4" thick. Hopefully someone else can answer that better.

Which neck do you want? Some have a .790" 3rd fret and .850" 12th fret. The RR3 is .745" 1st fret and .810" 12th fret. The RX10 has a .775" 1st and .880" 12th. And that is based only on what they have listed on their site now. I know there were other profiles in the past as well.

Yes, but is that compensating for the bevels? I thought for sure they were 1 3/4" too, because for a trem they use, It needs to be that thick.

Well,

I bought a bag right after i asked you about this... It diddnt work. I used a shop vac to draw the air out, but it still diddnt compress nearly as tight as I needed it to. There were lumps and unglued spots everywhere. I dont know how you did it, but Kudos for getting it done with that.

I thought I had seen RR1's with maple tops, but I guess I was mistaken. I haven't looked at many of the newer Jackson's in a while, so I didn't know they moved the jack, good to know.

Have you ever taken apart an RR1 though? How can you say for certain how they run the wiring channel? I have never had to to play around with, so you may be right.

No worries. I dotn think i have evefr seen an RR1 production run with a maple top. There are tons of custom shop Rhoads with maple tops. Just not regular USA RR1s.

I have changed pickups on a RR1. The there was indeed a wire going to the pickup rout from the Jack. This was a mid 90s RR1, so I dont know if its changed with the Fender buyout or anything.

Avengers, BRILLIENT!

Sure, the gets the credit. I said to do it that way like 4 days ago when you mentioned it in the off topics chat

Ihocky,

There are no RR1s with maple tops. There are also a few newer RR3s, and the RR5 that have the jack in that spot. They are all done just with a long bit to the bridge pickup cavity. On my template of a RR, the pickup cavity is only about 5.5" from where the jack would be. I see no problem drilling.

Thanks Geo.

I had that diagram bookmarked a LONG time ago. I went back to it, and forgot why i thought i could just take the tone off. I looked at it, and for some reason, thought the middle lug of the switch had to go to the tone first. I now remember why I saved the diagram, because you indeed can just remove it. Thanks for reminding me.

Whatever man. Just because i cant figure out how to convert a diagram, doesnt mean i dotn know what im doing. I couldnt figure out how to eliminate the tone control from that diagram, because There was nowhere else to put the wire from the jack.

I dont appreciate your lecture. I have been doing this a long time. Just because I am not an guitar electrical genius, doesnt mean I cant do a quality wiring job.

Thanks J pierce. I think they have a minimum of a 15$ fee. Thats ok with me.

I dotn really have anything else i need surfaced. Just the body blank and the top.

The reason is because this is such common knowledge that it is too basic to print (even on the web). Don't take this the wrong way but shouldn't you know this already if you are taking service orders? Believe me this will take you much less than a year to figure out if you apply a fraction of the energy you spent waiting for someone to do this for you.

Here's a link that just might help you out.

I do know how they work... And that wasnt helpful at all. I went up to page 22 on google with the terms "2 volume no tone diagrams" and found nothing. Like i said, I want it the way i showed in the diagram.

And yes i know, about the tone on 10. But that doesnt help, because he specificly wants 2 volume with no tone. If i could have, i would have done it that way in the first place.

DOUG!! YOU FOUND IT!! THANK you so much.

Ok, I have searched for about a year now. I have NEVER found the diagram i want. I wan one like this http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/WDUHH3T2101

Where the wires from the pickups go to the switch. I want 1 volume for each pickup (just 2 HBS) and NO tone. DOES THIS NOT EXIST??? I just cannot figure it out or find a diagram. Please help me, I have a guitar in for service, and thats what the guy wants BUT I CANT FIND IT! Please help. thanks.

Wow, really that fast? Thanks for the quick reply Rick!

And yes, I was speaking of surfacing. Thanks a ton!

Ok guys,

So I am in need of a drum sander. I am not going to buy one. My local woodcraft offers the service of theirs for 45$ an hour. My question is,

How long does it take to run a blank or a bookmatched top through it? If it is almost level already? I have heard it can take a really long time, but I'd like to hear it from you guys who actually have one.

Spoke,

How did you edit the title of the topic?

DO NOT WET SAND THE WOOD

That will ruin the wood.

You probably heard about wetting the wood and appying the dye, or something to that sort.

Looks like great work!

I have some questions about the vacuum bags if you dont mind.

Does it chip or break the veneer where it bends it over the ends? (how the veneer is cut oversized around the body)

Do the bag get tight enough relatively easy?

I think i might try this!

Its probably just intonation being off. If its that sharp at the nut, then the nut is probably too high.

OHH, Sorry, I thought he did mean the cutter Diam. not the shank diam.

Check the post in The solidbody chat labeled something like "body woods"

NOt all areas have the same stores/lumberyards. ITs too vague of a question to just ask where to buy wood.

Yes, 1/2" is actually the one you need.

you cant find a 1/4" one, because they dont make one.