wood is good

The issue is not having it slide during clamping. Like John said, it's easier to glue two tapered pieces and have them snug than one tapered and one square, especially when one is radiused. I already have the template made, so it's not a huge deal to run both pieces through the router beforehand. I might try the zip tie method actually.

I must say i COMPLETELY disagree. How is it easier to make 2 pieces line up PERFECTLY and NOT SLIDE at the same time, than to have one square board? There is a ton of room on a non tapered board over an already tapered neck. If you want ot prevent slippage, just put a clamp on both ends so the fretboard has no where to go. ( No clamping it down, On the wood around it, to act like as stopper)

How about just glue the oversized untapered fretboard to the already tapered neck? Then just trim with a flush cut bit. Eliminates all that hassle in the first place. I never understood why people liked to complicate things and make it hard to where you have to line things up like that.

CORRECTION!!

I meant that the neck pocket would be too BIG, because of the sanding of the heel of the neck. Regardless, different methods work for better for some more than others.

Spoke,

I feel that only works if you dont have to sand AT ALL around the heel area. If you do, then your neck pocket template is then too small.

Just look at the tutorial on the main site.

Stick your board to the neck - that should be your basis for keeping the neck straight ;-D

Of course, I would never radius first.

Thanks for the info guys!

Thats great to know they he will make longer ones.

That router radii jig makes no sense to me...

Like i said, I buy my fretboards pre slotted, so i cant use the radius bits.

Spoke, I have contacted GPC about those before. The response i got was that There is no need in guitarbuilding for a radius block longer than 7.25 (the size they sell) and it would make no sense to make one. I then asked why Stew mac would sell them, and why a ton of other luthiers use long radius blocks, and I got no response.

The main reason I want a long one is because i have trouble keeping the board level while radiusing. I do use a long leveler in between, but Going thru the higher grits, I still cant keep it perfectly level without spending hours on it spot leveling and whatnot.

What smaller companies?

Would 16" be long enough for you? THIS place sells 16" long blocks with any radius you want. I have no experience with them as I ended up making my own blocks but the price seems pretty good to me for a CNC machined quartersawn maple block of that length.

OO Thanks! That looks pretty good to me. Do you know where they are located?

Spoke,

See, they are even more than what I thought! I dont really need a aluminum one, just a longer one than 8".

I cant use those radius jigs, because i buy my fretboards pre slotted. My drill presses table doesnt rotate, so i cant use the Safe t planer method to make one. That is why i was asking too, if someone could make me one.

I honestly HATE making cavity covers. I make my own cavity templates, but its impossible for me to make the covers match exactly. I HATE IT!!!!

Now a hate this part post. It was inevitable.

I once used a template set and made the cavitity cover match exactly. However it was so tight you could not remove it. So much for precision. I now want them loose as thay are made from wood.

I hate sanding, ugh.

HEY! Narc brought it up, how come I end up with the downfall??

But with a template set, you cant make the cover if you dont have a template to copy in the first place.

Hey guys,

I have been looking. Is there anywhere else besides stew mac that has long radius blocks? (like 20" long) There is no way im paying 110$ for a piece of aluminum with a radius in it. Is there anyone that can make me a wood one that long??

KH2??? Looks just like a basic RG to me.

Nice looking neck woods!

I honestly HATE making cavity covers. I make my own cavity templates, but its impossible for me to make the covers match exactly. I HATE IT!!!!

Top notch work mister Venables!

Where did you get that top, and how much was it if you dont mind me asking?

http://cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/906.191~2

There it is. Only the blade is more curved on this that I have.

Not really a spiral bit. That barley has any twist to the blade at all. Not much of a difference. Spiral bits look almost the same as a drill bit.

Well, It kinda was dead for 3 years

Why the nice multi lam neck, If its going to be painted? Just for strength?

Dont know,

On the can of shellac, it says not to be used as a base for poly. It says to use their seal coat for that.

Wow, that looks like a super flat profile. Is that intentional?

It doesnt look like zinc, But It could be. It does look a bit more like copper than brass though.

I have recently found out that pretty much all brass guitar parts (bridges, that kind of stuff) arnt really solid brass, even though companies claim so. I have sanded the backs off a few TOM bridges, only to find out that they are X( color of hardware) on top of brass on top of cheap steel. Anyone else know about this?

About 1 year late.

OH, Your right. Sorry about that. I had just got done with reading all the other posts about it, guess i skimmed thru the post.

I just dont think they would look good at all with a 6 inline headstock. Those are all fairly symmetrical shapes, which would be thrown off by the headstock.

They make a 6" bandsaw? What could that possibly be useful for?

I dont think a 6 inline headstock would work with any of those bodies...

why dont you think it would work with those bodies? looks or structerly(sp) its some kinda original i love lp and sg shapes but im not big of a fan of 3 and 3, all the guitars i have now are 3l 3r i want something differnt

... check out the other replies.... We thought it was the throat. If it was the throat, it would be not very useful. But we now know that it is not.