wood is good

Yes Cam, The measurement of a bandsaw is always the depth sideways ( the "C" Shape)

THats why I brought it up, and mentioned that I had never heard of a 6" bandsaw.

They make a 6" bandsaw? What could that possibly be useful for?

I dont think a 6 inline headstock would work with any of those bodies...

I was just curious to why he specified it as quilted maple, when it was painted. Just seemed kinda strange to specify that it was quilted even though it was painted.

Like I said, it just follows the taper of the fretboard. It has up to 80% more gluing surface area than a gibson style joint, and is stronger.

Wait, Im confused. What does getting a quilted maple top cheap have to do with painting it a solid color? What was the point of that?

How hard is the recon stone to cut?

Sure, but good luck getting a tight fit and routing the neck pocket to that shape. You should just do a full sized heel that follows the taper of the fretboard. Gibson style joints are obsolete if you ask me.

??? That without the neck for 500? I have seen the whole guitar go for that on ebay.

Wow, how is it even possible to get a body flat with a block of wood, flat enough for a top to be glued? I have use a huge flat piece of wood, and measure with a straight edge, and it still wasnt flat enough to glue a top.

Well see... This is most new builders biggest mistake. You all want to make a guitar EXACTLY the same as a production guitar. This is pointless, and not really worth it. Think about it, why do people like customs? Because most production guitars are to general and basic, and have some design issues that could be easily changed, but would cost the company more money. so they keep them the way they are.

YOu need to just figure out what thickness guitar you like playing, then build your specs to that. It absolutely doesnt matter how thick the body is on the edge. And by asking that, You cant possibly get a real answer. There are hundreds of different carved top models, all with different thicknesses of tops, which changes the overall thickness. There really isnt a straight up answer for what you want to know.

Uh, Just look at the pics rick posted.

Why does it take days to sand to 2k anyway? I can usually go from 80 to 2k in like 30 minutes on a whole body and neck.

you measure to the angle you need, draw the line, then cut to it.

hand plane

I think you should bind before even gluing the fretboard to the neck on the future necks you make. Its a lot easier.

NO, orange peel is not caused by incompatibility.

Are you asking why you are seeing the primer coat after you sanded, or are you asking why are you getting orange peel?

I use this method all the time even when a piece has been over the jointer - the roughing up of the edge improves the joint strength. I generally use my jointer to get the piece quickly to a level then use this method along with the squiggly pencil line to get the piece absolutely true.

I dont want to start a battle... but...

I believe it has been proven a ton of times that roughing up the wood does not improve strength, but actually weakens it. Since wood glue does not create a mechanical bond, the strongest bond possible is made with a perfectly flat planed surface. Only with epoxy does roughening up create a stronger bond.

Yeah, i guess that makes sense. I just tend to look at every single new post there is. Good luck wiht your new career as a neck builder.

C'mon John, Your on the forum all the time. I can remember 3 different topics in about the last 2 months that asked this question. Most say 1/8" to 1/4"

Much cheaper.

http://yhst-50206111187217.stores.yahoo.ne...baboxfor9v.html

You should get a digital caliper. It lets you know exactly where you are, and you can measure before you carve so you know how much you can take off before you get the to TR cavity.

I was meaning only level them once, after the back is done.

And I didn't want your $0.02 I wouldn't be asking for it.

Which I am.

Still, what he means is it will have moved a lot more, and whatever levelness you had when you fretted, is completely gone. There is no benefit to fretting prior to carving. What you should do carve the back, then re level the fretboard, then fret.

Well, doing a skunk stripe would be pretty pointless. The only reason for that is if your doing a one piece neck without a separate fretboard. So, just rout the channel, the glue the fretboard on top.

I just stick a small allen wrench at and angle it, so it can pull up on it. I have also gotten them out by putt a screw in until it sticks and almost threads into it, and then just pull it out.