wood is good

You can just use the 2k as a sealer in a few light coats. It dries fast and hard enough.

Looking good! Though I'm not a big fan of the headstock looks. Funny how everyone adds a bevel on the bottom edge, even stranger that the original doesn't have it. How does a 10 string actually work? Are some strings acompanied by an octave higher string?

Cheers

Yup, exact same as a 12 stringer, just without the Low E and A strings doubled.

It just a generic Telecaster body.

The big thing with automotive paint is to stick within a system.

Haha, he was talking about the V in the link.

You dont need to grain fill that wood, IIRC, Its poplar or something, which doesnt need to be grainfilled. So you dont have to worry about any epoxy or anything.

I understand, I just dont like how everyone acts like its his and only his, and act like he is superior to us.

I dont think its fair that EVERYONE gives credit to Mr. Ormsby for that "idea". Ive know luthiers who did that WAY before Perry became popular. It just wasnt thought of or known as well.

Cost and trouble? Its a ground connection. It has to be grounded, shielded or not. A lot of manufacturers do that, its just easier to have a central place for grounds.

There are a few species of cherry. But the most common cherry, ABSOLUTELY NOT! IT is almost idenical to maple, but just with a hint of pink tint. Very stiff, Very hard, and even the same grain patterns as maple.

I saw an explorer someone posted here with a wenge top, and i think Daniel Sorbera did one a long time ago. It seems nice. It is hard and heavy, probably being close to maple sounding, but probably brighter since its a lot harder.

Same question as always that everyone always forgets. Did you ground the bridge?

From what ive seen, Ibanez is the only manufacturer that does the "no wall" thing. It has no affect on tone whatsoever. They just put it right up against the neck p up for asthetics.

Is a TOM really considered a hardtail? I always considered a hardtail a strat non trem bridge.

Anyway,

It will be really hard building a neck around a body that already has a neck pocket routed. Why did you rout it already, when you dont even have the neck ready?

Whats happening is that your coat isnt level, and when you sand it, It brings out all the low spots, that you could not see before. You just have to sand more, or spray more coats until it is level. Its impossible to "make" orange peel by sanding.

I dont think we really have any idea what the heck your talking about. A double cutaway, is just that. 2 cutaways. A strat has 2 cutaways. So yes.

Is there a ground wire to the bridge, (actual bridge, not pickup) This usually is the main cause.

1/42nd is veneer, cut in on a roller.

I would say 2ks are the most durable of all, almost polyester like!

No...cocobolo is a Mexican rosewood, family of the Dalbergia. Both are beautiful, though!

I think he quoted the wrong post...this one

Guess I should show this lovely piece of Siam Rosewood off here!

I think this is what he meant...at least that is the only thing I can think of.

WOO! Glad somene knew what i was talking about! How i quoted the wrong one, I dont know. Yes, i meant to quote the Siam Rosewood one. Is it cocobolo?

2K poly is automotive. That is the only 2k out there. The 2 part varnishes are different. Automotive 2k are the higest of quality, car painters will not mess around with non quality products. Some even use it as a sealer too, because it dries so fast.

You need to use a Chamfer router bit.

DUDE

DUDE

DUUUU FRICKEN UDE

How did you buff thru the WHOLE clear coat? That doesnt even seem possible!

Well, how do you know its a candy finish if you cant see the grain? That doesn't really make sense. Unless your just talking of the color NAME. Candy colors are transparent, and that's the only use for them. (besides over flake or something else)

What exactly is your question? If you spray candy right over a a clear sealer, it will show the grain. That's all there is to it. If you spray a color coat or primer, it obviously doesn't show the grain. Pretty self explanatory.

Or, you can just drill the hole, clear, then clean out the hole. Thats what everyone does even with bigger holes, like TOM bridge holes, and tuner holes.

WOW! Thanks for all the info guys!! I promise, I did search, A LOT! I think its just because an acoustic is much different than an electric, and I dont really know WHAT im searching for to search for acoustic info. Those all look like great resources! Thanks once again, I will spend much time going thru all of what i can. I really appreciate it guys, thanks!

I was initially turned off by the price of two-way rods. But I found a supplier where I can get them for less than the cost of basic one-way rods, not the welded flat bar 2-piece, but the straight round bar rods. I just wish I could remember who it was. I have them in my favorites at home, but that does me no good here at work.

How much were they? Doeringers sells them for 10.25$

http://www.doeringerguitars.com/servlet/th...8-Guitar/Detail

Oh, thats probably not it. You said it wasnt a welded 2 piece. These ones are still good though.

Ok guys,

I have now become interested in building an acoustic guitar. Thing is, I can find NO information anywhere on the web. There isnt just info like for building solid bodies. There are plenty of Tuts for those. I have searched all night tonight, and really havnt found anything helpful. I would get the sides pre bent, and the rest would be done by me. My main questions are about the neck attachment, and how you make it fit perfectly, and a ton of other stuff.

Big question:

Where did you guys learn to build acoustics? There has to be some free info out there somewhere.