wood is good

now that is a guitar that will rival the pros!!

how many have you made? that is one great looking/well made guitar. congrats

why not just by the regular pickups and add the 15$ gold covers?

Well, first of all i am a little concered that you are attempting to grain fill pine. second, i am also concerned that you are claiming you are seeing grain show thru, when pine has no open grain to show.

I dont think you get how grain filler works. why would it just magicly work overnight instead of right away? it wont just change.

if you were using a wood that actually needed to be grainfilled, you would apply the grain filler, sand smooth, and then apply again until it is smooth. you should be able to see when the grain is fulled filled.

EDIT:

Also, i noticed you said the pine has some "dark spots" do you mean knots? cheap pine almost always has a ton of knots. yes they well be a problem if they are indeed knots.

WOW

can i ask?

why would you do that? what is the point of radiusing it both and then gluing it? why not just do it the regular way and glue it flat and then radius JUST the fretboard?

thanks pete. it appears it was "sticking" rattle it around a bit and unmounted it from the guitar, and now it works fine. thakns for your quick reply!

Hi,

I have yet another problem. i have just moved a completed wireing harness from one guitar to another. (both my own, and my own wiring)

it worked perfectly fine when i had it in the first guitar. it consists of 1 vol 1 tone, 3 way toggle. i moved it to another guitar, wired it up with the same pickups, and for some reason, now it combines the neck and the bridge pickup when only the neck pickup is selected. it isnt the neck pickup, becuase if i switch the bridge and the neck, then it combines the neck and bridge where it should be only the bridge. i am using the wiring diagram that has the hot wires from the pickups directly to the switch itself. what could be causing this? there isnt any contact between that lug and the middle one, so im not sure what could be wrong. if anyone has any suggestions or advice, it would all be greatly appreciated. thanks.

i diddnt mean on just the 5th, but the 5th -the 7th. those are the problem areas. thanks for your help. ive tried all the things people suggested, but since i dont have precision straitedges and what not, i cant to the best. thanks for your help.

well, i tried leveling them 2 more times, and with my straight edge there is no gaps with the truss rod loose.

i guess i just dont have what it takes guys.

i am only using 9s. and i do have a hard pick attack, but even lightly it buzzes on the 5th -7th frets, especially worse on the A and D strings. o well thanks for your help guys, i think i will scrap it and sell the parts.

well i guess i made my guitar really really badly, because even though the frets are perfectly level, i cant even get the action below horrid without it buzzing somwhere, and i followed this tut exactly.

depending on the size of the CNC, i believe it can do basicly a whole guitar. but fret slots, i dont see how you could achieve that on a CNC.

i have heard, you send a paypal payment of minimum 10 bucks to the Administrator Brian, and then it takes a few days for you to be able to see the stuff.

well, i did what you said, and adjusted the neck to where when i fret it at the first and last so there is a very slight gap in the middle. it helped, but very very slightly. it still buzzes bad on the 5th. the thing is, it diddnt used to do that. i re strung it with heavier strings, and it got really bad, so i took them off and put the same string gauge as before, only now it buzzes like that. i will level them again and see if it helps.

i dont see how everyone can say that the correct nut height is where you fret it a the third you should just barley clear the 1st fret. to me, with 6100 sized frets, that seems like a really really heigh string on the first. i usually put it to where it barley clears at the first without being fretted anywhere. i did the 3rd fret thing on this one, and the it seems almost impossible to fret the first fret its so high up.

no, there was no relief when leveling, all the frets looked like they were leveled evenly.

there isnt space in the middle when i fret at the 24th, but there is when i fret at the first. its just that core part of the neck around frets 5-9, 5 being the worst.

i have messed with the action many times, and right now its at about the height of a quarter if that helps. i dont know the measurements of that.

i dont think he wants to change it, i thought the pics he posted were of the final finish? he said it was already sanded up to 2k grit.

hello all,

i come to you today with a bit of a problem.

See, i made this Les Paul style guitar. The frets are leveled (perfectly)

the problem is that i get buzz only in the middle of the neck. well, not really middle, but from frets 5-9 on all strings. no matter how much or little relief i put into the neck, it doesnt go away. what should/could i do to get rid of this? it isnt horrible buzz, but enough to make the note unclear. please help. thanks

the neck blank thickness depends on how thick your body is going to be. no one can just tell you.

as for the LMI blank, just add another piece to the heel to make it thick enough.

avenger:

when i said the fretboard, i diddnt mean the face of it. just the sides. no one wants to mask off the fretboard sides and spray the rest of the neck, you would have a big ugly line you could feel afterwards. i always mask off the face of the fretbaord and spray the whole neck including the sides of the fretboard.

well then, you still have to bandsaw the front, so why not just bandsaw the whole thing? its that simple, there is nothing else you need to do.

you are complicating this way more than you need to.

easy way to do what your asking:

before you scarf, plane the headstock scarf part to the right thickness. that fixes what you want to do,

and to profile the depth, just use a bandsaw!! and smooth your angle with a belt sander!

Thanks for your reply Erik!

i will look into that!

Hi guys, me again,

i was wondering, it seems as though polyurathane doesnt adhere to cocobolo due to its high oil content. i have made 2 guitars with the stuff, and i must say i think it is impossible for poly to stick to it. on the sides of the fretboards, after the rest is dry, it just rolls off like sticky adhesive from the cocobolo. anyone else had this problem? how is it with other finishes? thank you!

Hey guys,

Well, thanks for all the opinions and such. I have not done anything at all yet, it was just an idea in my head that bugs me because i wanted to know how to get the slots cut thru the aluminum.

i guess i will have to result to cutting the inlay and then inlaying it, which i dont like the sound of.

Ello!

i was wondering,

would a fret slotting table saw blade (AKA the Stew Mac blade) be destroyed if it was used on some thin aluminum that was inlayed on the fretboard? i thought up a nice inlay that would cover a few frets in length, and i would like to know if it would completly destroy the blade, or if since the aluminum would be so super thin, and its soft anyway, if it would actually work without becoming extremly dull. im sure no one has done it before, so im not sure what the answers will be. thanks if you can help.