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Posts posted by GuitarGuy
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The thought crossed my mind, im thinking it may mess with the symmetry of the body. Black shrink tube will become obscured and lost in the body. Ill entertain both options though.
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Yep, I'm thinking about just shrink tubing the wiring and electronics connections. Industrial, yet classy.
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So would this be a solid body guitar? Semi hollow? Hollow? Air?
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I don't partake in the tap tone school of thought unfortunately. The Idea that you can tap a pice of wood and then change its form, attach some stuff to it, then expect it to respond to the same frequencies is lost on me. Just for fun, it rings like a bell, fwiw, I dont know what it's natural resonant frequency will be, but im sure it will be apparent when its together and playable.
Im just worried about the extra metal affecting the current in the coil. Im leaning toward some sympathetic vibrations being read by the coil creating a chorous or vocal effect. But its pure speculation.
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Not sure yet. The bridge, backbone and neck mount is stronger than a hardwood body is. Im not sure how the cage will respond to vibration.
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1 hour ago, ScottR said:
Well, that's eminently practical. I was picturing the back of the neck in straight steel rods, but couldn't envision a steel rod fretboard.
SR
Its on my list of things i want to try, but i cant figure out how to do steel frets. You could bend them to the right radius but as soon as they are welded in they would warp. They would need to be pressed into something. A project for another time.
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4 minutes ago, ScottR said:
I can't wait to see what you've got planned for the neck.
SR
Nothing fancy, ash or maple. Dark fretboard. Rosewood or cocobolo perhaps.
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Powdercoat, reflective purple.
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Its cool and all but it would be nice to have an image of the scale you are playing. with the speed and image quality you can mostly see what you are playing but somtimes I was doing the pick and listen method to figure out the right note.
Keep in mind im a less than stellar guitarist and this may be aimed a a more advanced audience.
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Point already covered.
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Thanks I'll try there.
P.S. Nice to see another Nova Scotian on the forum!
if you are near halifax busy bee has it. Just go up Wright Ave in the burnside industrial park. East Coast speciality Hardwoods is on Wright ave as well. You name the wood they got it. Not cheap though.
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Not that a drill for a lathe is much of a good idea but i think you guys are over thinking this. there isnt really any side load from a tool on the lathe, because the tool slices wood off in a circlar pattern as the piece is rotating. This is no different than the cutting edge of a drill bit or a spade bit. If there is a side load you are pressing way too hard.
that is wrong, you are pushing from the side, without evening it out on the other side with an equal force. a drill has equal forces on all sides that even it out, making it just a resistance to turning, as opposed to a sideload. when there is just a single point touching it pushes it to the side.
sorry to be so blunt but i didnt want people misunderstanding the situation and assuming that there is no difference to normal drill use.
Ill grant you that.... but it is not a lot. its not going to break a drill..... if I can turn a 1/4" round piece of steel thats about 8 - 10 inches long without a steady rest and only be out a couple thou. Thean I think I can turn a piece of wood without breaking a drill......that being said I really dont care to argue the point anymore. a drill as a lathe is a dumb idea anyway.
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Not that a drill for a lathe is much of a good idea but i think you guys are over thinking this. there isnt really any side load from a tool on the lathe, because the tool slices wood off in a circlar pattern as the piece is rotating. This is no different than the cutting edge of a drill bit or a spade bit. If there is a side load you are pressing way too hard.
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Do you have a drill press? you could make your own with some bar stock and a tap.
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My experience with painting aluminum is limited to automotive poly. But what ive found is you can pint over the bare aluminum with no etchant but it does not stick very well ....pretty obvious. The thing is as long as the paint doesnt chip it acts like an eggshell and envelopes the aluminum. As soon as you get a chip it will peel. It held up pretty good on a peavey strat pickguard I had.
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Yes. Naphtha melts sticker glue.
Goo gone would be my first choice but naptha works too.
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The handle (aka "monkey grip") is terrible. I say no.
Does anyone actually use that for this purpose. I thought it was strictly decorative. (as fugly as it may be)
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see the problem with leveling with anything other than a known straight edge is that you can introduce a wobble into the fretboard. If the sanding stick you have is anything but true you can get high and low frets as youre sanding. being out .005-.010 is a lot in fretwork. It can mean the difference between a smooth guitar and a buzzing fret.
At the very least joint the piece of wood you are using as a sanding stick. But ideally you want somthing that has the same flatness as the flatness you ar trying to achieve.
Steel body strat
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
Pickup will be just a basic humbucker with a volume/tone combo. I kept it simple for ease of building. If it works I may do a more elaborate round 2.
Chrome would be awesome BUT in order to get something chromed the parts need to be near mirror finished to look decent. Im going to try to get a good finish before powder coating but its not detrimental. There is so many nooks and crannys its going to be a job in itself to get it presentable.