GuitarGuy

I just want to get few opinions on leveling tools. I already have the16 inch bar (stewmac #4578), and I'm debating whether to get the adhesive sandpaper for that bar, or get the diamond leveler,(5256). Also, I already have the 3 in 1 crowning file with the replacable burrs, what is the best crowning file around? Thanks

if you already have the bar use it. Stewmac's sandpaper is a rip off tho. try eastwood.com they have good quality self adhesive sandpaper double the quantity at half the price.

the best I can do is to venture a guess, but I would have to say it is something done through a computer. The pattern stays the same through the different marbled colors. But I could be wrong

um no... Its called crazer from alsa corp. theres other companies that make that kind of stuff too. You can also pull it off with a coarse metallic over a grey/silver base. Just after spraying the coarse metallic scrunch up a plastic bag on the surface. Then use a candy coat of your choice. All in all not somthing I would try unless you have previous painting experience.

This kinda folds into the milling thread the other day. I guess the main thing is to stop buying cheap ass drillpresses if you can avoid it. I know not everyine has the space or bankroll to buy big. But dont expect it to stand up to the abuse that a floor model will. There has to be a distinguishing point when you refer to a drill press on this forum. Say bench or floor model to stop these arguments.

I agree an arbor press is better than a benchtop drillpress for this operation. But....If you have a floor model drill press then this is a non issue. I have a 1ton arbor press but I prefer the old beat up drill press because it allows the caul to autocenter itself.

Bottom line. Bench top drillpresses are no more than a glorified cordless drill so keep that in mind when using it.

People will buy anything. Unless you want to contibute you're not going to get a warm reception here.

fryovanni- my post was directed at the way I do it and I explained it in the first post. The freehand method described in the above posts is not safe and wont work at all. The bad advice comment towarad all things drillpress/router related tipped off my attitude on this.

Tearout is not so much of an issue because you can move the cross slide vise in any direction to eliminate it. I think a video is in order for this one. Im heading to the garage in a few min and ill set this up and take a few vids. The reason im so head strong about the idea is beacause i have been using that method for a lot of things over the last 10 years and have never had any broken bits, lost chucks....The odd messed up workpiece due to my own planning mishaps (but not the fault of the tool). I have used it as a lathe to make knobs and wheels before too. The reason why I have the opinion I have....my experience with it.

I couldnt agree more that the original freehand idea is a bad idea.

As for the rest ..All is well that ends well. Peace.

EDIT:

Just a clarification on the chuck falling out of your drill press.

If the actual chuck is falling off the spindle you want to heaten the chuck up to expand the hole in the chuck and then push it on, but if the chuck is falling out with the Morris taper that fits up into the spindle still attached. then you want to put it in the freezer for a bit to shrink it. and then jam it in.

Breaking a router bit at 1000 rpm is way different then breaking one in a router at 10 000+ rpm

If a router bit scares you dont buy a mill. Taking a .100" cut on a piece of steel goes to the point where every tooth of the cutter can be felt throught the concrete floor as it hits the steel. And the machine feels like its going to shake iteslf apart. Yet the carbide end mills dont break.

A drill press as you say does not have the side load capability of the mill. But the router bit has a side load limit too. (less than the drill press spindle no doubt) Thats why you take the same size of cut on the press as you would with a router. maybe less.

Because of the pitch of the screw on a cross slide you cant really move the piece faster then 2 or 3 inches a min. (well maybe thats a little conservative.) but its not very fast. The reward being a perfectly straight cut on the two axis. So pickup routes, wooden pickup rings are all possible and relitavely easy to do.

I can attest to it being just as safe as any other power tool when set up correctly. And by the way you are talking I know for a fact you have never attempted it. So why argue a point you dont have any experience doing?

And dont give me the injury argument. Just because a captain idiot cant keep himself out of harms way does not put the tool at fault.

But it appears you have come to the point that you are arguing the point now for the sake of arguing so do whatever you want.

Mattia just to put this in perspective. To make radius blocks on my mill i hold the piece to the table with 2 strips of 3/4" double stick tape. I can take a cut that is 1/2"-3/4" deep without any problems of the piece moving or breaking loose. So the forces are not what you imagine.

edit: Also the spindle speed is 1000-1200 rpm. Same as a drill press.

Where's that 'bad advice' picture when you need it?

A drill press chuck is downright dangerous if running at max speed with a router bit in it. That's a lot of force applied lateraly, a direction a drill chuck simply isn't designed to take on forces of that nature. It can and will fall off (happens to me from time to time when using a sanding drum, but I set the table so that if it falls off the chuck, it can only drop about 1/4", so it doesn't actually go anywhere, but it remains friggin' scary.

A lot of things are possible. That doesn't mean they should be done. Tool safety is important.

Wheres the if you've never done it don't talk picture?

Man ....Ive cut aluminum and some mild steel on my mill using an endmill in a jacobs chuck. It does not budge. Al long as the workpiece is fixed and the chuck is tightened down zingin tight its not going to move.

Yours falling off means you dont have your drill press set up correctly. Heaten up the chuck in the oven for a bit. then use an arbor press to push the chuck on to the taper of the spindle. let it coool and it will be really tight and never fall off again.

And keep in mind that the workpiece should be held using a cross slide vise. its impossible and very dangerous to try and freehand like that.

Seriously, DO NOT RUN ROUTER BITS IN A DRILL PRESS OR DRILL BITS IN A ROUTER.

Basic shop safety, guys.

Welllll... with a cross slide vise on the drill press it works quite well. Cut many a template using that method before I got my mill. BUT...it is incredibly hard on the bearings in the drillpress. My drill press has many knocks and rattles now and could really use an overhaul.

Drill bits in a router...big no no.

It basically means like soapbar said its made from cheaper steel. Considering the price of those i would contact lee valley. But what can be done is any time it is in storage. put a skim of 3 in 1 oil or some equivalent oil on it and then wrap it with tissue paper or cling wrap. You will never see the rust again. When you want to use it a quick wipe with a rag will clean it and allow you to use it. Kind of a pain but you never want anything that is a precision device to show signs of rust. You can't count on the accuracy if that happens too much.

I'll take a shot in the dark....I'm betting you have a flat headstock (i.e. non-tilt) with not very much break angle over the nut, and it's vibrating between the nut and the tuning pegs. Pick that B behind the nut and see if it's the same high note you're hearing.

If it is, some string retainers or felt baffle should take care of it.

or saddles....same effect

Oh well, back to the drawing board. -Vinny

Hey I thought it was a good idea at first too.

Got it modified it tried it on my mill. Using an attachment I machined. The tolerances are not accurate enough. the runout in the blade makes the slots about .040" with the blade dialed in on the mill. I sanded the saw to make it a smaller kerf and then it just started burning. Forget it. its a lost cause. Good theroy, but not accurate enough to be effective.

That is very unique looking. Just an idea. YOur routes for the wood inlay are a little less than perfect. So I would consider oversizing them a bit and using a colored epoxy filler like a pinstripe. Blue maybe?

Now here is a question. On the 50-50 blend pot. wouldnt one coil sound basically the same as the second coil. (i know its reversed polarity but still the sound of a reversed polarity pickup is marginal from what I recall). So at 50% you have the humbucker, but at 0 or 100% you would have just one coil with the same number of windings only a reversed polarity.

Im by no means an electronic genius....far from it. But wouldnt a split coil humbucker with a seperate volume for one of the coils do somthing like this? The only other thing I can think of is a multi position switch the taps the second coil at different intervals. Then again he could just be blowin smoke too.

Hobby shops carry clear and white printable waterslide decals. By white I mean the actual waterslide material is white. so it's a non issue being able to print white.

The new hitachi ones look real nice....expensive tho

I love it! The whole idea behind this is awesome. I bet 90% of people that guess here will be wrong or at least the statistics of chance.

Stupid question!

but i have to ask

does it work with longer scale length?

if i dont make longer neck pocket?

I think you might need to do a little more research on this. Search scale length.

To me it appears that the balls drop in straight but when tightened up they wedge in there because they can't come out straight. Simple but effective.

I remember that pine explorer, was for the 2x4 build-off right?

Yeah i was the only one that followed through with it

This one

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...21933&st=45

Hey thats my guitar...yay!

Another tip: Check the radius block radius against the Stew Mac fret press caul radius. You may find that they're not an exact match if you did not get your blocks from Stew Mac.

Unless the radius block is brand new it will most likely never be an exact match. Wood moves unless you have them painted and sealed and even then they fluctuate with temperature and humidity. not much you can do about it besides getting aluminum blocks. even so The difference between a 9.5 radius and a 10 radius is marginal. If you put the two beside each other you would be hard pressed to tell the difference.

The main thing that is important is that the neck is true down the length. As long as the radius is close thats all that matters.