GuitarGuy

So it is a rubber tree then?

So the neck would be a rubberneck......sorry, it was there.

I always enjoy reading your posts pete. Your rants are like poetry!

Drak....couldnt have said it better myself.

Nothing left but to give them a good shoeing then. 3 Goons and a van, say no more

You got room for one more? my boots are steelcapped , just the way we like'em

Im in. But all I got is a Louisville slugger.....that good enough?

There will always be tab sites, just not the same ones. Look at Napster, it is no longer free. but now we have bearshare, limewire, shareza etc. Once one site goes down another will pop up. Just keep looking.

Dont worry about tonal characteristics yet. The first guitar will most likely be sub par to what you are capable of.

For what is worth I canabalized by first two because I wasn't totally happy with them.

im looking in to making my first guitar but stuck on what kind of wood to use first just for me to learn how to make it then i will move on to using harder wood i been told by a guitar player i know he said maple body and neck with rosewood fret board on top of the neck what do you think any help will be great thanks JJ

Maple/birch, cheap, easy to come by not heartbreaking when you screw a piece up.

So the Prefix "graph" is a misnomer. Clever marketing.

www.busybeetools.com

Theres one in edmonton. But they ship too. It's a canadian based version of harbour freight

Doesnt graphite conduct electricity? At least it did last time I checked. Although I don't know how much graphite is in graphtec saddles, if any. Anyone wanna test this?

Birch is a great wood. Dense, tight grained, a lil on the heavy side. It can have some really pretty grain. Kinda speckled like the back of a small deer.

All i know is, i just built up 3 neck blanks from clear hard maple. Three strips laminated vertically for each. When i got them out of the clamps, I tapped each of them in several ways, as mentioned above. One of them stood out with a belllike ringing, while the others weren't exactly dull, but not like the first.

It was a night and day difference, and the dimensions of the blanks are identical. Now, I am not claiming anything, and i am sure that as soon as i start shaping, the "tone" may very well change and be deteremined by it's final dimensions. But which one do you think I'm going to grab first?

KOMODO

I like it... A tad bit of scientific method. You have me curious now. So maybe I'll be one of the crazies in the wood store now as well.

Grind the bottom off of the screw, then grind a small chamfer on the bottom end at about the angle of the thread pitch. That should fix the thread that gets messed up during grinding. if you're at all worried about it, run the proper sized die down the thread to fix up the bottom. It is usally not necessary though.

Last time i checked hamerhead stuido was free and exportable. havent used it in years tho

hotstepper is good too, http://www.threechords.com/hammerhead/hotstepper.shtml

Im sorry Rich but you just gave me a good laugh. I got a mental picture of some guy in a hardware store bangin on a piece of wood. A very fine line between that guy and a crazy person.

The whole concept is silly. As soon as you change the wood's shape the information you have gathered by taping has gone out the window.

Acoustic soundboards.....maybe i can see it being practical. Otherwise im thinkin crazy person knockin on wood.

No offense intended at all.

no radius blocks.... it'll ruin the curve.

Just fret as normal if sanding is needed do it lightly by hand or use a straight block down the length of the fretboard.

One word ....Marketing

Why not just use end nippers like everybody else?

Exactly what i was thinking. I bought mine in a set for 9.98 at Canadian Tire

Matt, are you just looking for a special deal or are you located somewhere where you cannot get parts?

Its kind of a bit of both!! hear in Cold Lake Im 4 hours away from A Music Store

I have some black gotohs. Good condition but on some of the tuners the paint has scratched off the tops...would be will to trade for some gold 3x3's.

How bad is the damage? pics?

!!METAL MATT!!

If its real bad i can fix it

If you want it accurate or "vintage". You could use templates and a router set to the proper height at each template. Much like a topographocal map. That is how I did my first strat. Totally not necessary but it works and lets you get it very similar to a real carve.

Why?

Cnc is not cost effective unless you make a large quantity of units. You don't just plug in the program and click start. There is a lot of setup work involved.

That being said there was someone on here that did bodies but I can't remember the name.

Yes, it will shrink but it is negligible. So don't even worry about it.

If you are using alder, you shouldn't have to grainfill, as it is a tighter grain, then, say ash. I just had my alder Solist body done, over the past few months, and no grain filling had to be done.

If you don't fill it. It will use way more clear to get it level first off. But it will work. Regardless whatever grain filler you try, attempt it on scrap first. I'd hate to see them react. I really think it would be fine but its better safe than sorry.

Honestly, what I would do is pore fill it with epoxy. Then clear it like you would a normal clear finish. Then the color coats and more clear. Leveling between coats.

On the first few coats the wood will just eat the clear. Within 2 or 3 coats you'll have a nice level base.

As long as you don't sand through the clear at any point. The base coat will be fine on top of it. If you have a sand through make sure to seal it with another coat of clear. Otherwise the base will try to lift the clearcoat. (I made that mistake a long time ago, might as well pass it along)

Now raise your hand if you don't get that... gold, platinum and WHAT!?

Chris

Any decent hobby shop will carry K&S tubing. they have copper, brass aluminum and stainless in multiple sizes. Just a fyi