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Donovan

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Everything posted by Donovan

  1. That is interesting Pete. Thanks for the link... the possibilities with your switching scheme sound endless and cheers for taking on such a task. What I have found with my S-1-switched strat is that I only use about 3 of the 9 different settings, while the other 6 I pretty much ignore. I have not delved into the S-1 switching much at all, but since I don't use mosty of it, I think I might mod the funtions if I can get a working sustainer circuit going... which brings me to my less than significant progress update... I tried what you might call a "naive" experiment based on what I have read here. I disassembled a pair of Harmon Kardon desktop PC speakers I had lying around. I destroyed one of the cones as I investigated its construction. The other, I more carefully dissected. I got it down to the puck with encased magnet and coil, glued the coil to magnet with Elmer's glue-all and wired it to the speaker set's mini amp. I then proceeded to hook it all up in my bedroom, running my guitar signal into and splitting it at my Digitech modelling pedal (bypass mode) into both the PC speaker mini amp and my Fender Hot Rod Deville 2X12 as my main amp. I sat on the floor as I tested the ability of the small coil (maybe 50 turns tops) to sustain, but nothing significant happened until I made the biggest mistake I have made since shooting a handgun with no hearing protection. I mistakenly got too close to the selected pickup and after creating a really BAD, high frequency oscillation, I was within .001 second reduced to a slumping, 50% conscious mess. Though my amp was only at output 2 (of 12), the frequency and sheer volume of the squelch this mishap produced was enough to seriously reduce consciousness!!! I will not do that again! I located an old American standard neck pickup I had from before switching out my neck and bridge on my 1998 strat... and the pickup has been hiding since '98... I am happy to have located it today! Anyway, I removed its original windings and cleaned the bobbin. Wax dust was everywhere! Have you guys tried using wax as the potting medium for the driver coil? This also reminds me that I wanted to mention the material used for potting coils at my company. It is thinned urethane. When thinned, capillary action allows the urethane to penetrate through all the windings, even when applied after the coil is fully wound. So I am out on company shutdown until next Monday, glad for the time of but anxious because we haver all the wire to wind my first proper driver there. I am planning on trying (for my 1st attempt) a dual coil - driver in first 3mm of bobbin, followed by pickup winding in lower portion and perhaps over the driver, depending on number of turns when they are flush. I know others have mentioned this in the past. Does this sound like a bad idea? Will let you all know how it goes. I would plan on using this in its final configuration as part-time sustainer and part-time passive pickup, but will worry about the details later. Now, I just want to get the driver built, then begin the pre-amp/amp build. Have you guys tried the most simple transistor amps using only transistors, a few resistors, and input output caps as opposed to these F/R setups? I am wondering if it can be accompishe with a MUCH simplified circuit. Conversely, I really like the results (sound samples) the member Strib got from his seemingly more complex setup this past summer. I found more details and photos on his project at his website... www.strib.fr here. Happy New Year All!
  2. Here is my strat setup. It should be noted this is a mahogany body strat, so it will be a little darker than the average strat. Bridge: Full size SD JB Middle: SD Hot Rails Bridge: SD Vintage Rails The strat has S-1 switching, which works like this. S-1 Switch Up: Position 1. Full Bridge Humbucking Pickup with Coils in Series (Lead Tone Control). Position 2. Middle Pickup and Inside Coil of Bridge Humbucking Pickup in Parallel (Lead Tone Control). Position 3. Middle Pickup (Lead Tone Control). Position 4. Neck and Middle Pickup in Parallel (Lead and Rhythm Tone Controls). Position 5. Neck Pickup (Rhythm Tone Control). S-1 Switch Down: Position 1. Full Bridge Humbucking Pickup with Coils in Series (Lead Tone Control). Position 2. Full Bridge Humbucking Pickup with Coils in Series, in Parallel with Neck Pickup (Lead and Rhythm Tone Controls). Position 3. Full Bridge Humbucking Pickup with Coils in Series, in Parallel with Neck and Middle Pickups that are Paired in Series (Lead and Rhythm Tone Controls). Position 4. Inside Coil of Bridge Pickup Paired in Series with Neck Pickup, in Parallel with Middle Pickup (Lead and Rhythm Tone Controls). Position 5. Middle Pickup in Series with Neck Pickup (Rhythm Tone Control). Favorites Position 1, S-1 switch does nothing, sounds boosted mids and highs for rock or metal tones. Not strat-y, more SG'ish. Position 5, S-1 up, very vintage, full-bodied with emphasis on low-mids, not high output. S-1 Down, very strat'y bell-like tone which I would nmot expect from this posion. My other strat (Am Std.) has a SD Hot Rails in the Bridge and a SD Vintage Rails in the Neck (Middle is stock Fender). I love the Viontage rails in the neck, but the Hot Rails is too much for the Bridge. It overemphasized the "chimelike" tones and is not useable by itself, in my opinion. It needs to be darkened by including something else.
  3. Hello PSW and all. This is my first post to this forum. I have spent the past 2 weeks reading through most of the 279 pages, on a learn as you go type basis, after a chain of mind-blowing experiences that went sort of like this... Six months ago, while surfing youtube, stumbled across the awe of the Moog guitar. I pondered how the infinite sustain might be achieved and recalled my middle school days and learning how speakers and microphones are very much the same animal and realized the same thing could theoretically be done with pickups. Given the Moog's $6,500 price tag, I then wondered if such a thing could be done for less $$$$$ and began speaking with an R&D tech at my place of employment about this topic, who believs this can be done. So, at that point I made up my mind to take on the project, but first, I wanted to scour for every little bit of knowledge I could find on this topic. A few days later, I stumbled across the sustainiac site and was again wow'd as I was with the Moog guitar. It occured yet again when I saw that Jackson makes one stock in the DK2s. After all, I was in the mindset that there was going to be little or no information on the subject until I luckily stumbled across this forum. I must say that after playing electric guitar for 15 years, regularly buying Guitar World magazine, surfing their website and ultimate-guitar.com, I feel completely ignorant to this world that exists beneath the surface that is you guys and this site... simply amazing! As I mentioned I have been playing guitar for 15 years and through that time have played with all sorts of effects, but the sustainer has really got me, I WANT ONE! However, I only have $6,499 EXTRA just lying around, so I won't be making that purchase anytime soon... that last $1.00 is hard to come by you know, especially when you support a family... they just always seem to need that last $1.00. Anyway, I do like the sound out of the Jackson, but I am not a shred/metal player, so the rest of that guitar does not really appeal to me. Lastly, the Sustainiac kits are a lot cheaper, but I am not sure I want to go modding up one of my American strats just yet, so here I am. I want to probably do as PSW and the rest of you have done and experiment on a cheapo guitar, although the end result I am looking for is a sustainer in my Fender American Special Mahogany HSS strat, which I swapped out the stock pickups with a Duncan JB in the bridge, Duncan Hot Rails in the middle, and a Duncan Vintage Rails in the Neck. This guitar also runs the Fender S-1 switching system which adds some slight complexity to the system over a standard strat. I have a background in electronics manufacture, being currently employed at a manufacturer of interior/exterior lighting (electroluminescent, LED, and HID) and power systems for commercial and military aviation applications. I hold ANSI/IPC certifications as an instructor in all areas of electronic manufacture, serving as company technical trainer and soldering/rework and test technical expert. I have been working with through hole and surface mount product in high-volume, high-mix as well as low-volume, high-mix environments. My current evironment does include transformer production and we do have several automated, high speed winding machines. That being said, I know how to build and rework/repair efficiently, explore cleaner, more efficient, cost-effective materials and methods for processing electronic assemblies, and train others to do the work using worldwide, industry standard techniques properly, but this is where my expertise ends. I do not design assemblies and my troubleshooting skills are limited, though rapidly growing as my interest in tese aread has increased in the past few months. Lately I have been learning the how's and why's of simple current-regulating transistor and timer circuits employed in our blinking LED assemblies. It is my hope that with participation in this thread I might learn a few things to increase my knowledge in my weak areas and be able to contribute in the areas I am strong. I do admire greatly the show of perseverence here. Wow, four + years at this! Congratulations are due! There we have it. Please excuse the lengthy introduction. I do have a few questions and comments that I did not see addressed previously. Please excuse if I missed them being addressed. I was up at all hours of the night for a few days as I sifted through this thread. 1) For the driver design. has the idea of off-the-shelf SMD inductors such as these been explored for driver design? They can be purchased in a variety of package sizes and values. I know the hex idea has all but died off, but I am thinking part of the reason for this is manufacturing difficulty. I am also thinking of the possibility of chaining them together closely as a singular coil in series or parallel. 2) As magnetics can be reversed, ie. mic to speaker and vice versa, can the same be applied to piezoelectrics? Is it theoretically possible to use an under-saddle piezo as the driver in a sustainer circuit? I recall reading about the experimental implementation of vibrating motors, but have any other sources of creating the string vibration been explored? 3) How similar are your blade/bobbin designs to contemporary blade pickups? Could a standard blade pickup (rewound) be used for the driver? I have not disassembled one, but for instance, my Duncan Vintage Rails... might it be feasible, to remove the cover and wind a separate coil in conjunction with the one that is already there as the driver, thereby having driver and pickup in the same thin package? What if the pickup was completely unwound, then rewound with pickup and driver wires simultaneously (two strand of different thickness and number of turns, but originating from the core)? 4) I have been thinking about Moog's string-damping. I wonder if what they are doing is creating a "magnet full-on" upon sense of string movement. Not amplifying the string signal, but using the string signal as the "magnet on" trigger, then after some timed delay, applying the field as a straight current magnet, sans the signal from the strings. When the trigger sound subsides, the driver turns "magnet off". Would this be an easy experiment to try on one of your current working prototypes? Thanks for your time and patience. -Donovan from New Hampshire, USA
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