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About fookgub

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 04/28/1983

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  • Location
    Houston, TX
  • Interests
    bass and guitar; circuit design/layout/prototyping; guitar pedals and small amps; speaker building; coffee roasting and everything espresso; other woodworking; programming; linux; climbing; skiing
  1. My usual advice is "don't build what you can readily buy," which would lead me to suggest the Red Special or the Aria. However in your case, I say go with one of the Rics. The originals are so wildly expensive that I think it's justified to build your own. Plus you can fix a lot of the weird design choices along the way. I don't think anyone would bother with those basses if they didn't sound so unique and totally awesome. There's nothing quite like a Ric. I don't see any point in building a jazz -- you can get them all day long from a dozen manufacturers at a dozen price points -- SX to Sa
  2. Hmm... Interesting point on the V. I'd like to try one someday, but I don't think I'll be using this piece. I've always liked the idea of a King V in gloss black. So many guitars, so little time....
  3. Well, does the world really need another hot chick? Sounds like a lot of trouble to me.... Prostheta - Never been a fan of pickguards for this style of guitar, but I do admit the clear works on your old Washburn. I might give it some thought if I was going HSS, but I'll 95% be sticking with the tried-and-true HH. Anyway, I think I will stick with the superstrat/RG idea, but I may try to sleek-ify the lines a bit. Here's what I currently have for inspiration: Made by Elysian, who I haven't seen around here in a while. I'm reasonably sure this is a Mike Sherman. Metal Matt, who I a
  4. This may not seem very exciting to our Aussie friends, but I have a couple pieces of Australian Red Gum. The is rare wood in Texas, and I'd like to build something that shows it off. The pieces are highly figured, but are glued up from 2"-wide boards. I know that probably isn't going to blow anyone's hair back, but this piece was hard to get even at that. Besides, whoever did the joinery did a nice job. This used to be a mantle or some-such. The boards measure about 40" x 8" x 1-3/8". It'll be more like 1.25" thick by the time I clean up both sides. They also have some checks and holes in
  5. Couple more combinations done. I think I'm finished with Jazz-style pickups for now. I've got some P-bass pickups to try next. I'm also thinking about getting a couple Musicman-style humbuckers for comparison to the MM-style Jazz pickups I have. I originally thought MM-style humbuckers would be unsuitable because I thought the pickups would need to be slanted to help with the string-to-string tonal balance. But my thinking on that may be changing.
  6. I tried a few more pickup combinations. These MM-style jazz pickups sound better than I expected. I'm recording each combination as I go along so I have something to refer back to. Results are encouraging so far.
  7. Test fit Drilling holes for various pickup types/locations I'm calling this one slant/MM Currently strung up with DR DDT's (45-105). It sounds pretty good. A lot like a Musicman, actually. Strings have a piano-like ring. I find the G a little thin (common complaint with MM basses, so may be partly attributable to the pickups, though I think moving down to a .040" G-string would help). The E is lacking definition compared to the other strings, but I've heard worse on 34" scale basses. It's most noticeable playing fingerstyle closer to the neck. The difference is greatly reduc
  8. Ok, first coat of finish is on. That mahogany really popped. Good thing I have enough left over for 1.5 bodies.
  9. Well, flatwounds aren't really my thing, but I do agree that higher tension would help. I'm going to try out the DR DDTs. I've also got a pair of Hi-Beams. I recall liking those on prior basses, although I've only had one bass for the past few years and I've only used Dingwall strings on it. I also ordered a balanced set from Circle K, but they haven't arrived yet. I'm not 100% sure they will fit through the slots in the tuner posts, but I can always use them on something else. Anyway, here are a couple more progress pictures. I'm going to sand it out next so I can spray a few coats
  10. Thanks for the kind words you two. Chad - For one, my bit is brand new, so it's still very sharp. Also, I take shallow passes and I work as slowly as possible without causing burning. Cutting very close to the line with the bandsaw helps, as does having a router that won't slow down when you put some load on it. Most importantly I've started to develop a feel for what the wood is telling me, and I'll work extra carefully if I feel like it wants to kick in a certain spot. Sometimes you just have to avoid certain things on the router completely, and the OSS really comes in handy there. Sc
  11. This is basically a test to answer a few questions I have about 30" scale basses. Namely: - Do I like the feel of the shorter scale? - What strings are best? Is it possible to get a balanced feel and a solid E? What about dropped D? - What pickup types and placements do I prefer? The neck is a SX I picked up for cheap over at TalkBass. It's not fancy, but it will do the job. The fretwork actually seems pretty good. The body is 2-piece mahogany. I bought this as a S2E1 board from Clark's hardwood more because it would fit in my car than because I needed them to do the jointing and p
  12. Okay... my part of this is done now. Body is sanded out and has two light coats of polyurethane just to seal it up. I'm heading to Houston unexpectedly tonight, and the guitar is coming with me... so it looks like this will be done sooner than I thought.
  13. I'd seen the Distortorcaster a few times before, but always from the front. I had no idea is was so 3D! Cool guitar... it looks extremely comfortable.
  14. Did you use any special tools to make the string slots? After fitting the nut, I mark the approximate height with a pencil I sanded in half (like this). Then I place the outside strings where I want them and mark the others using a string spacing rule. I rough in the slots with a .020" kerf saw held against a square piece of steel to make sure the slot is true. Then I finish the slots with nut slotting files from Warmoth. The Warmoth files are not the best... I wish I had bought Allied's files instead.
  15. I made it, but it doesn't take much for tools. I think I used sandpaper, files, a coping saw, and a drill and tap for the holes. I should post pictures again, since I've cleaned it up and made it better. Does your guitar have a top-mount nut, or do the holes go through the back of the neck?
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