SJE-Guitars

Well I've got it! A bit delayed as sods law yesterday there was major power problems in downtown Vientiane when they were supposed to make it. Anyway it was finished early this afternoon - I phone and there were just sharpening it so I jumped in the car and went get it. Straight back to the house to pictures of bit and radiused the blank side of the block I did the 6" radius on before . .. . came out perfect! Now you might wondering why you ain't seeing pictures - because my 'wonderful' internet link still isn't fully working downstream traffic is just about managable (hence I can post) but upstream to ftp the pics on my hosting just ain't happening tried it about 10 times already! They came out and scratched there arses looking at the my link today and the outcome was I need a longer pole (it's a wireless link) - the reality was they didn't really know what they were looking at in the db stats on the router - although I won't bore you with that! So as soon as I can upload the pics they will appear!

Quick update - the 12" will be finished tomorrow - the guy who makes the bits at the shop wasn't in today. So all being well tomorrow I'll have more news!

Hurrah - my internet link is working . .. . for now! Well all being well tomorrow I will have the 12" radius bit! There hasn't been any news from the shop saying they can't do it - so no news is good news! Woodenspoke - yes you are right in saying there is a fair chunk of carbide used for the cutting blade - plenty of sharpenings can be got from it! As for the green - I don't think they'd ever heard of Grizzly tools - I didn't even know there blades are green but all their bits are green. I emailed you on the email address you PM'd but it came back unknown. All being well I'll have something more to report tomorrow - my internet link has been incredibly flakey the past few days hence I've not been online (Carl - will sort out the promise pics shortly!). Tomorrow I hope to have a 'doing' day opposed to keep getting dragged to do things I don't want to be doing! :-/ My stainless steel parts wil hopefully be in progress tomorrow (still waiting for quote) . . see the 8 string blog thread for details about them!

Actually the bit is really easy control by hand and the narrower 12" upward will be even easier with even less of a gyroscopic effect. I have a 1" rollover bit for shaping now that is a hairy bit to use! Anyway this was just a quick test which I couldn't be bothered to dust down my router table (don't really like them!)! Far easier just square up a chunky off cut and run the router over freehand. When I get the 12" the unradiused edge of this wood will be the tester .. .. freehand again . . . All I need to do now is make a 6" radius sanding block and Jazz basses here I come!! Edit .. .. hmmm I guess the theory is the curve is twice that of a 12" so only radius half the space you'd end up with a near 12" - albeit with the flat middle .. . interesting!

I think he quoted the wrong post...this one I think this is what he meant...at least that is the only thing I can think of. Not just me who thought that then!

A Pyinkado (aka Burmese Ironwood) body blank: and some lovely fretboards in waiting of Black and White Ebony (not Mun Ebony different tree):

Well even though it's only a 6" radius bit - I couldn't resist having a play! So first off trued up a piece of stock I had lying around - this wood is actually Malabar Ironwood which is a seriously hard timber so the blade isn't getting an easy ride - neither do my jointer blades! Trued and with as near a centre line I could get (75mm wide so 37.5mm ain't easy to mark when I only has a carpenters pencil at hand) I could tell that the line wasn't total central so I set the height of the bit to the tip of the cutting blade to 37.5 using trusty the steel ruler So I clamped on the table and ran the router across the two edges - it cut real easy - a bit to easy actually I had to pull the router back as it just wanted to run off. The cuts were actually done in one pass on either side - since this is a piece of spare stock I could do things a bit quicker than a slotted fretboard. The end result: A couple of close ups of the surface after the cut - as you can see they are pretty damn clean cuts! Then for a bit of fun - comparison to a Stumac 10" radius block (tightest I have): Obviously the most important part is making sure the fretboard is absolutely true otherwise the radius will be off centre but other than that (and getting the right size bit made!!) it will make radiusing an absolute doddle!

Well there has been a minor hitch . . . . a certain person (aka Me) when I did the CAD diagram for the bit put in diameter as 12" opposed to the Radius! Even though I only did the diagram as an example for the shop and I actually showed him using a steel ruler that I wanted a 12" radius they then just followed the diagram and produced a perfect 6" radius bit! Anyway the correct 12" diagram complete with correct radius sizing has been given to them this morning so it should be done for Monday! Bugger - a bloody stupid finger error in CAD - highly annoyed with myself when I realised what I'd done! But anyway I can confirm that the blades are Carbide tips - not just coated tool steel as you'll can see below: So anyone want a 6" radius!?!???! If only I had planned for a 15" - then I'd of at least got a useable 7 1/2"!

Well today was a day of visiting machine shops! Bad news is the ToM isn't going to happen - no can do was the replies - to small and fine work for their machines really it needs casting which ain't gonna happen here. Good news is the straight forward bits like ferrules, strap buttons, knobs and the truss rod are all on order - yeah! All stainless steel . . . well except for the truss rod! So now I am going to sit and rack my brains over a new bridge design (thinking individual saddles on a radiused plate - still string through) one which can be produced in the local shop - I know I can buy something from the US but that would take away the fun and also remove part of the uniqueness of the guitar. Still don't have the body timber - due to the man with the tree going awol! I am told 100% Saturday even if my man at the shop has to drive and get the timber himself to be fair he did offer me a piece of Siam Rosewood in place but I don't really want the neck and body all the same timber. I am also going to review my original headstock designs as it's patently obviously that many folks don't like the straight lines of the 3+3 . . . before deciding on that one I had about 4 or 5 more decorative versions. Also the body shape is being refined some what - mainly the top horn once I've put these bits together I'll post them up for people opinions. Anyone interested in Stainless steel parts?!?!

Anyway it was ready 6pm tonight - however I didn't have time to go and collect it - I will get it in the morning (it's 7pm here now). So tomorrow I will have some pictures and hopefully do a test.

At the bridge I really do like the SD SH-5 Custom - a fantastic hot PAF tone. I also like the SH-3 Stagmag with a humbucker made of two true serial coils with a coil tap it does give a proper hot twang strat sound. Neck wise I have to say I like the SH-2 Jazz. The EMG60 is a cool neck pick up also - but I have to say I was kind of disappointed in general by the EMG81 at the bridge - maybe I was expecting too much!

My apologies - I understand what you are getting at now - was early in the morning before! The language used here and the way it was said just meant they attached carbide to the bit - when I go collect it I'll check with them what exactly the procedure is - I would still think it's carbide tips but I'll double check.

Sounds like you've not earthed all the components to the bridge.

That'd be the reason for me to run it MORE in the daytime! But I guess that's just me! But yep they are loud things - my jointer and router are about level in volume stakes - you can't hear nothing over them when running and cutting.

Basically all the bits that Stumac sells are carbide tipped bits and your original bits were carbide tipped - that's what they make. In terms of dense woods over here everything is made from dense woods thats is the only kind of timber there is here basically 800Kg CM3 and upwards. This shop make basically all bits that are used by nearly all timber processing companies here. They do not make solid Carbide bits. The simple answer is if don't think they'll do what you want then don't order anything but I have say I find this comment slightly bemusing when you paid $200 a piece for your original blades made exactly the same. I've never tried to cover anything up in my post the very first thing I state is the "bits are tool steel with carbide coated blades". Anyway I'll should have the blade later today so for those interested in a Tool Steel bit with Carbide tipped blades I'll hopefully post pictures later.

I sure do have Paypal. P&P to the UK I estimate will be about the $5 mark - when I've sent small things to the UK before this is what it's cost - once I have it and know the packed weight I'll also go down to the Post Office and get accurate quotes for shipping. I will also get DHL quotes as some people might want them quick and also DHL here isn't rediculously expensive as in Europe. Watch this space for reviews. I've got erikbojeriks shipping address so once I've had a good play with it got plenty of pictures I'll ship it over and let erikbojerik give his experienced opinion on it! Once all is okay'd then I'll be taking orders and Laz no worry you'll be at the top of the list! Cheers!

+1 again for hand plane or if it just a minor amount of levelling a large enough piece of flat material with a large sheet of coarse grit sandpaper (same as they use on floor sanders) taped down on it and start sliding! Using a router for things like this is never fun unless you have a purpose built jig which is absolutely true and level.

Guess I should show this lovely piece of Siam Rosewood off here! Top with white sapwood Bottom lovely grain

Haven't got it yet! Probably Thursday - once I have it there will be pictures aplenty!

Just the man I had in mind! Oh also another thing is the template bits (ball bearing on top) - since I have the stumac bit I am going to take it down the shop and get them make me a new one albeit with a slightly longer cutting blade. Since it should be a straight forward thing to make I reckon they'll cost no more than 15 or 20 dollar max . . . any takers?

Ok as promised I went down the shop today and have ordered a 12" test radius bit. You'll be very happy to know that the bit are tool steel with carbide coated blades - I handled a few of there ordinary bits today and the cutting edges are razor sharp - impressed - in fact I've just notice I've cut the surface skin on my thumb from handling them! In terms of price $49 for per bit + p&p (which will probably be around another $5 for airmail). The shop is very busy and can only produce 2 maybe 3 a day. But anyway I before any orders are placed I will get the bit in a day or so time and give it a trial and post the results. Like I said in the earlier mail if people don't trust me then I'll happily send the bit on loan to an established poster that people trust to give it a trial. As soon as I've got I'll let you all know.

Yep - nothing radical but combined with the longer scale a slightly narrower nut and string spacing and hey presto an 8 string neck suddenly becomes pretty much the same size as a 7 string. On the fretboard side - yep this has always been in my thoughts hence as I say I'll be making a couple of testers on some scrap timber. I just really like the feel of 12" radiused fretboards - basically with a 12' radius there would be just over 4mm difference from the centre to the edge. A blank of 9mm opposed to the normal 7mm would be required to have an edge thickness of 5mm - so this is what I will be testing since I cut all my fretboard blanks myself thickness ain't a problem. This is all the fun of making guitars! Time to contact the wood shop see if my body timber has arrived and go down to the tool shop to discuss the radiusing bits (see other thread in Tools section!)

Bugger - apologies - been busy, busy with other things - I completely forgot to go down the shop today! Tomorrow - Tuesday - I'll definately go! The one thing I can vouch for is there sharpening abilities - the last week I gave them my jointer blades and they came back better than new! Like have a new jointer - very happy!

Well 30.5" is a short scale bass so it's a nice standard size as Baritones seem to vary on who you ask what is a standard some will say 27" others 28" or whatever. I didn't actually know Meshuggah had got 30.5" customs the last thing I read was them moaning about get 27" scale and not having 30.5"! I have detuned my 27" baritone down to F# and even with just a .054 string it was ok in terms of playability and 'flappiness' - similar to tuning to C or B on a 25.5" scale - I can imagine with a heavier gauge it would be easily tune to F#BEADG - but this is a pretty pointless tuning with out the higher B and E strings (although I do like a drop A tuning when used in standard B tuning). 12" radius is currently the plan - although I am going to make a scratch fretboard to check how it suits the wider neck. The TOM design is currently based on 12" but I'll probably get a 15" radius one made at the same time. Since this is part of my plan essentially building two of the same guitar similtaneously as I have a nice blank of Pyinkado (same timber as the previous SJE1 pic - actually the other half of the same piece of timber that was made from) and some Afzelia Xylocarpa for the neck. At the 24th fret it will measure 69.5mm - like I say going from the CAD layouts and comparisons to existing string spacings on my six strings - I fully hear the concerns over string spacing and small fingers etc but after a nearly 2 full days of testing, checking and CAD mock ups I am positive the spacing will work and be playable to all but the stumpiest fingers! Now I've just got to finally get this bloody timber for the body which as another day goes by I am start to think will never turn up! But I am determined to get it as it's a really attractive timber hopefully my chunk will have some sapwood on it as the sapwood is a nice light tan colour and looks really striking against the dark heartwood.

The wide of the neck will narrow because firstly the nut size - which is smaller than the Ibanez model - and secondly the string spacing on the bridge. Much planning and simulating of string positions on the fretboard using CAD has been done - the neck will be just over 1cm narrower at the 24th fret compared to the Ibanez 8 string and only 1.5mm larger than an Ibanez 7 string. But I am 100% certain the playability won't be affected so basically it'll be an 8 string with essentially the same size fretboard as a 7 string . .. . In terms of neck strength not only does Siam Rosewood have a high density and hardness rating but combined with the extra rigidity of a B&W Ebony fretboard the neck will have no problem in being taken to a slim profile. I was tempted to use an ironwood for the neck because of extra rigidity but the types of woods over here there is no end of timber with high tensile strength - with the added truss rod the necks are absolutely soild. The scale length will also help by keeping the string tension higher than the usual 27" scale so ensuring the lateral movement of the low 8th string is kept to a minimal also allowing a narrower fretboard to be used - but as a side effect improve the sustain. I am looking forward to getting it underway - particularly the neck - for obvious reasons! It's obviously experimental but as would be said why make something you can go and buy off the shelf in a shop?