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Helldunkel

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Posts posted by Helldunkel

  1. Nope- not blind. As a hand carver I have an excellent eye for small detail.

    Your logo looks like a slightly more stylized version of his. To a passerby, they could see one logo, then the other... and think it was the same logo. That was my point.

    "Be unique. Just like everybody else."

    Neal is a friend of mine. I dont think he'd be too excited about your logo-

    Internet at its best! :D

    So now are you also going to say that my logo looks like Lord Sauron? I happen to know him personaly and he is very exited about it..... :D

    haha this made my day so bad! :PB)

    Oh no wait, Lord Sauron was influenced by the Mozer logo.... B)

    3462284019_2ab4171c7d.jpg

    Oh wait, no, both have been influenced by Terminator 3....

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    damn, no, by an alien!

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    oh no wait! its from HALO!!!!! damn

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    For the records, my logo was created by a professional graphist and a wonderfull friend of mine who is a Buddhist living in India, try and explain to him that he was influenced by Neal Mozer....

  2. Hufschmid H8 Baritone Myrtlewood Top

    Hello everybody, I enjoy posting in this forum from time to time and help some members out :D

    Here is my new 8 string baritone scale creation, as a small artisan building 10 guitars a year, I am using basic tools...

    Specifications:

    -best possible grade one piece sapeli mahogany body.

    -integrated armrest bevel, super thin design with maxi contours.

    -best possible grade one piece sipo mahogany neck reinforced with my new invention, the HR neck reinforcement system.

    -double way adjustable truss rod.

    -master grade Pauo Ferro fingerboard, 24 frets, 28.31" baritone scale, 20" radius.

    -master grade flamed Oregon Myrtlewood bookmatched top.

    -high quality hipshot bridge and tuning machines.

    -Highest quality 18% nickel-silver jumbo fretwire.

    -The headstock logo is solid aluminium, the "H" was custom cut using a CNC to match the "H" of my custom pickups.

    -exclusive hufschmid string retainer and nut material.

    -exclusive hufschmid luminescent side dots system.(five times as bright as tritium!)

    -custom hufschmid neck pickup which was custom built to the customers specifications by my friend Kent Armstrong himself.

    -custom hufschmid bridge pickups, OTT model.

    -custom designed and expertly cast hufschmid pickup mounting rings.

    -the customer requested a specific wiring setup, each pickup has an individual volume control.

    -the instrument is oil finished.

    -final weight = only 3.7KG!

    a short video for the sound...

    H8 myrtlewood top

    Low F sharp abuse....

    and now the pics, enjoy :D

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    http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9849/photo384.jpg

    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc...5_3530851_n.jpg

    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc...9_3003891_n.jpg

    http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc...2_8320497_n.jpg

    http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/5263/photo386h.jpg

    http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/6417/photo379m.jpg

  3. Here is one of the best woods which I have ever used for building a body IMO - ELM

    It looks like Ash on steroïds with much more colour... (pretty much unknown in guitar building)

    Its hard to find a big enough piece for making a 1 piece body...

    Here is a guitar which I built using a 2 pieces of swiss elm, I also glued a crazy maple top on it (just in case your wondering what is that insane wood...)

    If you look at pic number 2 you can see that I jointed the body using a shark joint...

    The sustain is out of this world, and its extremely stable but pretty harsh on the tools.

    72517179.jpg

    in the dark

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    in the sunchine

    48636315.jpg

    And here is an other guitar on which I used a unique piece of flamed Mukushi (Zambian Teak) for the fingerboard.... (again pretty unknown in guitar building)

    35876421888294208513429.jpg

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    and some intense flamed oregon myrtlewood for the top!

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  4. Off topic, but that Benedetto guitar is not termite ridden. It's a type of aquatic animal that did that... some sort of crustacean if I remember correctly.

    And now... return to your regular programming.

    Chris

    On topic for the Off Topic, but your right, and here is a link after some research, its Teredo mollusk, also known as the Ship Worm: Il Teredo Benedetto

    Still a termited spruce top would also be killer.

    But here is some 150 years old termite ridden walnut which I used for building this 8 string guitar neck:

    Photo781.jpg

    Photo750.jpg

    And now... return to your regular programming :D

    Pat

  5. I've done several guitars in Tru-oil, but never used their filler/sealer.

    Just ordered a 3oz bottle.

    Anyone try it yet???

    When I started to build guitars I was using exactly that finish but at some point they had restrictions about inflammable material shipping which was a problem and they could not ship it anymore oversea...

    You can also find it at LMII

    Just be carefull it's not a true pore-filler, its only a thicker solution to make it easier when building a soundboard for exemple (or any softwood) to avoid saturation to prevent the wood from absorbing crazy the finish which would be detrimental on an acoustic instrument for exemple...

    BTW I could spend all day smelling that stuff, I love the smell :D

  6. About pine...

    Select pine can give you great results...

    Remember this Benedetto? Bob claimed that it sounded better then any high end professional model he ever built:

    galleryKnottyPine1993.jpg

    knotty.jpg

    And Bob was cimpletely right, its more about the maker and his experience which will give the sound to the final product...

    On my side I have built this experimental guitar for fun a couple years ago using a 5$ 2 piece pine board for the body :D

    yet, I was incredibly suprised by its resonance...

    dsc00935tx7.jpg

    The most epic guitar Bob ever built was this termited spruce top archtop gutar...

    ilteredo-full1.jpg

  7. stable enough to use for a neck? I've read somewhere that it may not be. It would be too bad as it makes a fantastic looking neck. Thanks

    Quilt maple really does not really mean anything apart from describing a specific pattern / figurine which is found in a varietie of maple....

    Here is an exemple of Maple Trees - Maple Tree Varieties

    Keep in mind that woods which have a lots of figurine tend to be pretty unstable, especially maple...

    a few things to consider:

    1) is the wood perfectly seasoned?

    2) is is quatersawn?

    3) is is a hard or soft varietie that you will be using?

    Based on the second question:

    quilt refers to a type of "figure", It is seen on the tangential plane (flat-sawn)...

    Flat sawn necks are by far much less stable then quatersawn necks so this is already a hint....

    Then even if you decide to use it, you will have to make sure that the wood is properly seasoned...

    Personaly I would never use quilt maple for building a neck...

    Most quilt maples often come from a softer variety of maple, its not as strong as birdseye for exemple which is a hard rock maple varietie (Acer saccharum)...

  8. f**k yeah... it's another way of putting your "stamp" on it....

    go for it! offer it as a (chargeable) option... you'd be surprised how many would want it! people can change necks/logos etc.... try getting that off the body - it's there for good.

    hehe yeah its like a tattoo :D I dunno, maybe in the futur when I will get more chops after some practice at chip carving B)

    First off...

    It's a cool idea but.....

    thanks B)

    Your logo is far too similar to Neal Moser's stylized "M". (Neal has been in the business at least twice as long as you)

    first off.... be sure to buy a pair of glasses, you may need some I'm afraid.....

    scythegwadme2.jpg

    242.png

    very similar indeed... :D

    2nd- get some chipo carvers knives and practice.... 6 hours is about 5 hours too long.

    thank you for your wonderfull and constructive tips :P

  9. My only question is why did you hide it on the back of the guitar.

    does this reply to your question :D

    Removed the images for brevity

    As long as it is an option I think it is a nice feature to offer.

    Personally I would not really want it on my guitar per say. Especially not that size. But I am a minimalist and like everything streamlined without any adornments. :D

    thanks man, glad you enjoy it B)

    however, the chip carving is not an option, this is a one of a kind instrument which I am building to celebrate my 15 years as a luthier and I wanted to test this idea on it B)......

  10. Dont know if this is considered to be a finish so I'm not sure this is the correct forum area :D

    Anyway thought I would share, I decided to chip carve my logo in the back of one of my new creations and use to my advantage the finish in order to add some shading effects, enjoy B)

    Basically I am using an X-Acto and taking off chips one by one until it looks like my logo, took me over 6 hours...

    The logo is placed strategically to give the impression that it just fell on the guitar in a weird way :D I also took the center portion of my logo off to make it look more 3d'ish...

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  11. why is it bad to connect it to the output jack ?

    in the long run its wired up the same electrically

    nope...

    rule #1 about electric guitar wiring: never, ever, disconnect the signal to the amp. If you want to shut the signal up, there are other ways to do it like the one I show in this thread... this way you will never get the "accidentally unplugged guitar buzz problem"...

  12. I was recently installing one and took pics, maybe this can be useful for some members, cheers

    As a reference, I am using some Shielded Guitar Circuit Wire from stewmac, in my case the single conductor wire available here:

    http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...ictures#details

    1586_1lg.jpg

    So you can find a killswitch in any hardware store really, you dont have to ground the switch but its always better, so in this case I am using a simple on/off interruptor which has 2 connections + and - (this thype of switch is not polarised so it does not matter in which hole you place the shield and the hot wire.

    photo006o.jpg

    Start by stripping the wire this way so that you seperate the shield and the hot copper wire in the center. Then add some solder on both cables and simply connect the shield and the + in the holes. RED = hot Green = ground

    photo007c.jpg

    Now if your guitar cavity has enough room, try and find a place to drill a hole for the switch which does not interfear with your playing, on this picture you can see the back of the switch with the + and - sticking out from it...

    The bad thing to do is to connect the wire to the jack so you want to connect it to the volume pot, in my case I have add the + (red) wire to the extremity of the volume pot in which the main switch connects and the - (green) is the ground which is then soldered on the back of the pot...

    photo014ek.jpg

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    Thats all you have to do, now your guitar is cool!

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    I recently changed the switch thype for a different design, having fun experimenting...

    96720913.jpg

  13. Beautiful guitar. When did you install the side dots? I watched the vids, but I can't remember where that was.

    thank you :D

    There are many steps which I did not show in my videos.

    I am using an exclusive material for the side dots, a luminescent material which is only 0.5mm thick but 5 times more luminescent then the regular luminescent dots which you can find on the market.

    I must make a very superficial hole in order to inlay it using some super glue to hold it in place. Once its set and dry I then mask the fingerboard and neck to protect it because I then shoot some clear lacquer on top of the dots to protect them.

  14. And what would you say is a better alternative?

    Would you expect every guitarist to study pickup winding and magnets for a few years before deciding which set they should buy?Or should they maybe take the word of a boutique oriented snob about what the "best pickups in the world" are regardless of that guy's experience in the type of music the guitarist wants to play?

    Or should the guitarist look at the equipment of the guitarist whose sound he likes the most?The guy who inspired him to play?

    I think the most logical thing for most guitarists who really don't give a crap about how many windings or what type of magnets are in a set of pickups is to just grab a guitar that has similar specs to their hero and start playing...but then again,I care nothing about boutique voodoo.

    If a player get paid (en endorsement deal for exemple) to say that his pickups are the best he ever played, his fans will anyway listen to him and blindly follow him (this is how the guitar industry work and why most big companies who have tons of cash succeed.

    Most famous guitar players for exemple do not necessarely use their endorsement deal product to record their albums but they only use them for public exposure, gigs, media and interviews and pictures.

    I dunno man, I think its a lost cause really, but I would encourage a player to experiment as much as he can instead to simply follow ''a blind mass'' because the guitar world is trully facinating and there is really a lots of amazing things to discover then to simply follow our favourite musician.

    To be yourself takes a little more personality because you dont follow the blind mass and will anyway be put aside because you think differently but its worth the sacrifice :D

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