DrummerDude

Thanks. Seems that it is OK to buy a cheap router as long as you use high quality bits with it?

Thank you for your reply, mattia I only need the router for my upcoming Telecaster project. I hope I could route all the cavities on the body. After this I may simply put the router in the closet and forget about it. I hope this thing will not break while I am routing my first Telecaster. Actually this was my question: are those cheap routers OK for routing the cavities on one single guitar or will they break in the very beginning? I just don't want to spend 30 bucks on a good router bit when I could have 12 bad ones plus the very router for less. Am I on the wrong way?

Hi guys! Please have a look at this router and give your opinions about it. Is it a good bargain? I will translate the specs from Bulgarian to English for you: Electricity supply voltage: 230V/50 Hz (used in Europe) Power (Vigour): 1020 Watt RPM: 11500 - 34000 Chuck diameter: 6-8 millimetres 12 router bits included in the package 2 years guarantee Price - 39,99 Bulgarian Levs (about 25 US Dollars) Thanks! PS: I hope the picture is visible. Please, inform me if it is not and I will upload it to another server.

Deleted by DrummerDude Wrong section.

Thank you for your replies, guys! I don't want to turn this topic into a CAD program discussion. Many of the plans on guitarbuild are 2-dimensional, which means that there is no way to find out the depth of the neck socket or the depth of the pickup cavities. Also, their Telecaster plan shows the guitar with all the hardware set in - bridge, pickguard, pickups, neck... You can't figure out the bridge pickup cavity shape or measurements since it's not shown there. Maybe my question about the Telecaster plans should be read as: What is the telecaster body thickness? What is the telecaster neck socket width? What is the Telecaster neck socket depth? What is the depth of the Telecaster pickup cavities? What is the total lenght of the Telecaster body? And so on, and so on up to the headstock... OFFTOPIC: Metric vs Imperial? Definitely Metric. It's totally precise and you don't have to deal with stuff like 7/8, 6/9, 2/3 and so on. Plus the smaller M. units guarantee you a better accuracy. I wonder why Imperial still exists...

Hi dudes! I decided to build a Telecaster that is 1:1 with the first vintage models from the 60's. I never had one of those, so Teles are a complete mistery for me. I searched the forum and I saw at least 10 topics of people asking for Telecaster plans. I know www.guitarbuild.com and their CAD plans but the one I downloaded from their site didn't show any info about pickup cavities' depth and all that measurements related stuff. Actually, it showed no details at all (is it just me or are those DXF files missing measurements info?) I need a detailed plan of a Telecaster with cavities' depths, neck socket width & depth, wiring holes and all those measurements needed in the routing process. Can anyone help me? A link or a plan file will be much appreciated. Thanks!

Yes, Jivin, that's what I meant. Distance between the strings and the top of the frets.

Hi dudes! I would like to know what is the lowest action (distance between strings and fingerboard) that could be achieved on an electric guitar. My own experience - 1,2 mm at 12-th fret on a BC-Rich Assassin NJ guitar. Let's share some opinions. Cheers!

Just remember that all kinds of fine dust are cancerogenic when inhaled. This includes the fine dust that is being produced in the process of sanding or even sawing wood. Even the dust from woods that are considered non-toxic could cause serious health problems the worst of them being lung cancer.

I saw George's post and I thought that it is interesting to know what are the real advantages of a bridge-pickup-only guitar (ezcept for the ability to do some air-brushing all around the neck)? More sustain? More frets maybe? Any other advantages? Thanks!

Michael Angelo has one custom guitar that has more than 24 frets. Not sure about the exact number, though.

I *LOVE* this guitar except for one thing - the colour of the inlays. I know that rock'n'roll requires flashy guitars but this one has gone way too far. The inlays are great but their colour simply doesn't fit the whole theme. They kinda look like the substance my grandfather uses to spray on to his vines - blue vitriol. Copper sulphate that is. Plus these bright inlays does not look good on the light coloured fingerboard. Everything else is killer, though!

Thank you, Supernova9, this is a great pictorial!

I'd like to try to build a neck-through guitar. I searched the forum and I found this pictorial: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/lofivers....php/t4599.html Sounds like a great one but unfortunately there are no any pictures so it is no longer a real pictorial. Are there any other good pictorials that especially emphasize on the truss rod stuff with neck throughs? Thanks!

Actually the very same guy from NECROPHAGIST is the one who inspired me to buy or build one of these beasts!!! His name is Muhammed Suicmez and he kicks ass 24/7. IMHO he's the best guitar player in metal music of all times. Anyway, the brand is French, yes. I like the shape of the Marilyn (except for the headstock) - it's both stylish and aggressive. Gosh, I need one of those

Here is a shot of the model (it's left handed on this pic) http://fr.audiofanzine.com/img/produits/normal/5/8/58545.jpg It kicks ass, eh?

I am looking for plans for the Vigier Marilyn guitar. It is a kickass guitar and I would like to know if anyone has built one. Thanks!

Thanks, man. I will try what you adviced me. I hope the process of sanding the cut out pieces flat would not ruin the mother of pearl layer.

I'd like to try this too. Actually it sounds quite cool. But how do you "harvest" the MOP out from the shells? Yesterday, I was fishing at the river and I found several cool looking shells but they were all curved (of course) and the layer of MOP inside of them tends to be quite thin. frank falbo, how do you use the shells for your inlay work? Do you scrape off the inner layer of MOP and then stick the flakes together using epoxy or any other transparent glue? I suppose that this is how the commercial MOP (the one that comes in plates) is being made. Thanks!

I just learned that the common English name of the tree I know as "wild cherry" is CHOKECHERRY (Prunus virginiana) I bleive that this is the tree used in guitar building since its wood has great qualities several of them being its very small pores, its extreme stability and its interesting pattern. Or am I wrong?

I have the books "Building Electric Guitars" by Martin Koch and "Guitar Builders FAQ" by Bill Wyza and both guitar builders use cherry a lot. In my country, we have two kinds of cherry, though and I really do not know which one is used in guitar building. The first one would literally translate in English as "domestic cherry" or "cultivated cherry" - this is the tree that gives us the fruits we all love to put on the top of the icecream. The second kind would translate as "wild cherry". As far as I know this tree's fruits are not used for food and I don't even know what they look like. In my country "wild cherry" is a very expensive wood. So, what do you mean by cherry? The cultivated tree?

OK, here is the offer: Since I decided not to mess with the fingerboard, I may sell or exchange the whole guitar (not only the neck) to people living in Europe or (in case that the shipping costs are satisfactory for you) in the USA. Maybe the mods would like to move the whole topic in the Trading section.

DokterPeppor, I found the cheapest shipping service possible and it is still quite expensive. Let's asume that the guitar weighs about 6 kilograms (though, it may be heavier or lighter) This is the official web site of BGPosts - our State's postal services, similar to the American company USPS. Click here: http://www.bgpost.bg/index.htm#Eng/services/services.htm Scroll down to where it says PRICES OF INTERNATIONAL PARCELS, DISPATCHED BY SURFACE AND BY AIR. USA is in zone 6. The shipping prices of a 6-kilo package would be 87,80 Levs Surface and 163,60 Levs air. One US dollar equals 1,5 Bulgarian Levs. This means that the shipping of your package would cost you about 58 US dollars ground and about 108 US dollars air.

OK, here is the whole story. I bought this guitar like 3 years ago (back then I used to LOVE triangle inlays and all kinds of heavy metal things on guitars). I never played the guitar, though. I never used it for anything, actually. It is simply a part of my collection of (uuuuh... let me count them) 4 guitars I just wanted an Ibanez and I impulse-bought this axe from the store. From then on, it stays in its box, locked in a closet. I am not eager to sell it but I am not dying to mess with its fingerboard too because that could cause a total disaster. DokterPeppor, thanks for your offer but I calculated the shipping costs to the USA and it is a scary figure.

Uh, if it's for sale, why bother? ← As I said, the guitar is for sale at the present moment. If nobody buys it in a week or two (and it is much likely to happen), I will start messing with its fretboard. The guitar is in mint condition. You can see the nylon cover on the pick guard - the axe is still unpacked. Buy it now or regret untill the end of your life