DrummerDude

Thumbs up, !!METAL MATT!! Your design totally kicks ass anyway. It's so f*****g EVIL!!! I am sure that Vladislav The Impaler would love to play it on his cemetary shows If you decide to re-finish the axe in a darker colour, please post the pics so we could enjoy it. That would freaking rule!

hahaha, pinkish finish! hahahaha scroll up and read about PURPLEHEART Why should I read about colours when I can see them? This wood has a pinkish colour. This is a kick ass guitar with an evil shape and imho it woulld look better finished in an evil colour (black?) Digideus, no need to react in the childish way you do. Everyone have their own opinion. Ask Chuck Billy to read about PURPLEHEART.

Great job, !!METAL MATT!! Totally awesome stuff. Kinda reminds me of this one: IMHO, the only thing that looks strange is the pinkish finish you've applied on this evil as hell body. It would look so demonic in jet black. Keep on building kick ass stuff like The Impaler.

The screws are not visible. I first drilled tiny holes for the screws then I used a large diameter bit to make nests for the screw heads. After I screwed them in, their heads sunk into their nests (under the actual surface of the wood). EDIT: guitman32, I made some corrections to the diagram above. Now you can see how I made the screws sink in the wood. After I finished the glueing and the screws stuff, I used automotive putty and covered everyithing, then sanded the whole thing to perfection. Then the paint - whole neck and headstock is jet black. Now the headstock looks so damn smooth and cool. It looks really evil, I freakin' love it. It is about to be polished soon. I don't understand your second question but if it is about the way the surfaces of the wings and of the original headstock match, then the answer is: NO, they were not precisely square and flat - I couldn't make them even close to flat. I didn't even put much effort to match them perfectly because I knew that the screws would clamp them extremely tight and the glue between the surfaces would fill any persistent tiny hole. And I turned out to be so right Still, I don't mind knowing how do people make the surfaces that are about to be glued perfectly flat.

OK, the new headstock is finished. It looks so cool I used both glue and screws. The new headstock is rock-steady and kicks major ass I wish I had a camera to take photos of every single step of the process. That would have been a freaking nice headstock replacement pictorial...

OK, I am very close to finishing my pine guitar. I am very comfused about the headstock, though. Here is a description of the situation: Please note that the tuners' holes you see on the diagram are not drilled yet. OK, how to proceed? Should I glue the new parts to the old headstock? If yes, is there a glue that is strong enough to hold the string tension? Or should I use not only glue but some screws too? And one last question: how to make the two surfaces (the old headstock and the new parts) perfectly flat and even, so when I apply the glue and meet them there is no any space between? I tried to sand them flat on a piece of glass with sanding paper stuck on it but my hand movements are not that perfect and there are always curvatures and the surfaces turn out to be far from flat. Thanks guys!

Thank you guys, I will do it the glue way, as you adviced me. I was thinking of making somekind of a patch that would hold the two sides of the crack together and prevent them from moving but it seems that glue alone would do the job just fine. Thank you once again.

+1 problem solved ← +1? What do you mean by "+1"? And no, the problem is not solved. I still need an expert advice. Anyone with an useful one, please?

VanKirk, no I don't have any actual photos. From now on, I will not step on the guitar body while sanding it but It won't help me stabilize the already existent cracks. I need to know how to make them stable and prevent them from moving while the finishing coat is on because otherwise they would ruin it. Thanks!

Doc, this guitar was built about 10 years ago. Not by me, I bought it from the store. So, it's completely dry. Actually I think its too dry. I believe that the body cracked because I was stepping on it while sanding it on the ground.

OK, remember that pine body guitar I was messing with? It cracked. There is a crack at the bottom of the guitar and another one situated between the horn and the neck joint. In my humble opinion the cracks will not become bigger because the hard top veneer is holding them. Still, I would like to take some measures just to be sure that the veneer won't crack as well . Just for any case. Here is an illustration I made. The top has a strange shape because of the sanding I applied to give the body an Ibanez Radius look. The bottom crack is not where the two body blanks join together. I would like to know how to stabilize the situation, so the cracks won't move on and won't ruin the finish I am about to apply. In brief: how to stabilize these cracks? Thanks dudes!

Wademeister your piece of wood totally kicks ass! It's so damn cool, goddamnit...

This method sounds interesting. Though, I'd put the guitar body in the cooking oven instead of using a hair dryer (low temperature, of course - I don't want guitar cookies ) This would save time and effort plus the heat would hit more evenly the guitar body.

I was about to cut the old headstock in a symmetric triangle shape (that would make the neck look like a spear, hope you get it, because my English sucks) and then shape the new headstock out from a small maple blank and carve a "female" triangle hole in it that fits perfectly the new cut triangle tip of the old headstock. Then glue and use some screws too.

Thanks for the advices, guys! I was intending to do it in another way but I think yours is better.

OK, OK ,OK - I heard you all the first time. Remark - taken. OK?

OK, I'd like to transform this headstock: into something like this (the sketch in green): How to do this? Should I just cut the old headstock in a triangle shape and then glue "wings" on it? If yes, would the glue hold the string tension? Won't it break down? Or should I do this in a completely different way? Thank you people!

OK, remark - taken.

I need decals for the headstock and the body as well. Actually I think it's a good idea to cover the whole body in tribal decals in the vein of BC Rich's KKV model. This alone would requre more than 5 sheets of decal paper. PS: To the moderators: ***DELETED OFFENSIVE STATEMENT**** It was not an offence. My English sucks but I know a thing or two about American slang language and the word I used in my previous post was not a racial slur. For ages this word signifies more things than a nationallity. It means a stingy person, deep into collecting pennies. Just like the dudes from that store.

I have a job - working as a PR for a local municipality, thanks for the advice. Still, 18 US is just ridiculously huge sum for just 20 pieces of paper and I think that ***DELETED OFFENSIVE STATEMENT****.

Thank you. Unfortunately I am not able to order things online, otherwise I would have done it till now. But it is some useful info on that site. One could learn a thing or two about decal paper. The prices, for example - 18 US bucks for a 20 sheets pack of waterslide paper??! These dudes have one helluva huge sense of humour.

I asked in like 666 printer and photo materials stores. No one had a freaking idea what I was talking about. They all go like: "What!? Water decals paper for printers? You mean those things kids like to stick on their forearms to imitate tattoos? Are you f****** kidding me dood? This is not a buble gum shop" And I can read in their eyes that they are thinking even worse things like: "Get the hell out of my store or I will call the coppers, you freaking idiot! How old are you? Like 5 or something?!" It feels bad None of the printer store f**** had an idea what this water decal paper is (just like me ) I will go for plain paper - after all I can find some sheets of it in stores...

****, you convinced me that I should do it the harder way. I'll go for real decals. Thank you peeps PS: JimRayden, even though they require using a hammer, I still think its much cooler to use nails rather than push pins. Using nails for fixing the sticker would make the guitar look more old school and vintage too.

Double post deleted by DrummerDude

Hmmm... it's not about saving nickels, it's about simplicity. I didn't know that laquer destroys paper, though. I think that if laquer could destroy normal paper, then it sure as hell could destroy those thin stickers most people are using. Maybe if you use printer paper that's gummed on its one side... Actually, why do you think it would look like crap? Have you tried this before? Thanks!