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DrummerDude

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Everything posted by DrummerDude

  1. DrummerDude
    Here is a pic I made by joining two photos together just to show one of the differences between Fender and Squier Affinity bodies. I don't know if the other Squier series have that same ridiculously large pit for installing the bridge pickup in. Maybe the Stnadard series are better and closer to the original Fender pickup routing??? I don't know. I could not find any naked photos of dissassmbled Squier Standard bodies to compare. Do you have any?
  2. DrummerDude
    That guy from the other forum made a comparison between most Squier Telecaster series - Affinity, Master, Standard, Vintage Modified, Deluxe, etc. and he claimed that they all had awry routed body cavities that are just roughly shaped holes, bad body wood and that their hardware rarely matches anything else but themselves. He said that Fender Telecaster bridges and pickups don't fit or misfit in those Squier bodies and that the metal electronics cover plates are either smaller or bigger than those on most modern Fenders. Again, I don't know if this is true but it sure sounds bad. Especially to cheap but prejudice guys like me who want to buy a Squier. Now I will have to think twice. Do you have any impressions of those Squier series and how do they compare according your experience? Thanks!
  3. DrummerDude
    So, it seems that people who buy Squiers are not getting the desired "Fender copy" but just a visual approximation. I have also heard that unlike Squier (which are Fender's puppy), other cheap brands like Stagg (that are not associated with Fender) actually DO build exact Fender copies with matching pickguards, routing and all (that excludes the headstock, of course).
  4. DrummerDude
    I've heard that pretty often Squiers have a completely differnent routing for the pickups and the electronics than Fenders. Some guy said that Squier pickguards do not match Fenders and that parts are often impossible to switch between the two due to the different body routing. I don't know if this is true but you should consider thsese possibilities and do a research before buying parts for your project.
  5. DrummerDude
    I simply lay the fretboard on a railroad rail and wait for the train to do the job - it's much more precise this way than using a car because the railroad serves as a guide and helps for better an dstraighter fretboard positioning. It saves you gasoline money too. :D
  6. DrummerDude
    You are wrong, I read the responses. And I am not arguing with anyone nor am i rejecting anybody's opinion. Actually I can confirm what people are saying about that PVA glue "creep" thing. My headstock looks like it's taking a walk lately. One year or more after it was glued that is. I thought that the slight displacement of the pieces in it was caused by humidity or temperature changes but the gutar never leaves my room and the humidity chages here are not very radical. I didn't know that this movement was caused by the PVA glue and its quality to "creep". Now I know. Seems that he key is stronger clamping and better planer job before the actual gluing. Thanks.
  7. DrummerDude
    Yeah, I sued its ass and my PVA is in jail now. And the guards are mean epoxy dudes.
  8. DrummerDude
    Alright, copy that. By the way, I am going to use beech for my neck-thru. It looks like it won't absorb much glue - it's very dense and there are almost no pores in it. I tlooks like it is denser than maple. Will a PVA joint between two beech pieces creep more because of the low glue absorption and thus the thicker plastic layer between the two surfaces?
  9. DrummerDude
    Thanks guys, I know what it means now. I have noticed this on a headstock I made an year ago. headstocks are under pressure and the "wings" I glued to that headstock moved forward. I sued PVA glue. Damn, from now on I'm switching to epoxy. The neck on my Ibanez looks epoxied too.
  10. DrummerDude
    Damn, I just learned that plastic glues tend to "creep". I will not use plastic glues for laminating the neck and for gluing on the fingerboard. Will use hide glue or epoxy instead... but... ...these may be too fragile for the job and crack. I found a German wood glue, named "Moment". Seems that the thing hardens fast. Anyone tried it?
  11. DrummerDude
    Sorry for the question: what do you mean by a "creep"? My English kind of sucks and I imagine that by "creep" you mean that the glue will cause the two joined surface to get dispalaced and move off center. Or does it have another meaning? Thanks
  12. DrummerDude
    Nope, I dumped that idea about one year ago. I am into building Metal guitars now.
  13. DrummerDude
    A very simple answer. How has your work turned out? If your technique is good and your frets are seating well then a hammer works great. If your not happy with how your frets are seating then a fret press can be a reliable alternative. Peace,Rich I am happy with my hammer method (at least there were no any frets that got loosened in the past sixt months, hope they will not loosen up with time and with the humidity changing and making the fretboard move a bit). My hammer fret job looks rock solid. I can't imagine how those fret slots would loosen up. It is just that I read a lot of different and often contradictory stuff on the net. I wanted to see what more experienced people think on the subject.
  14. DrummerDude
    I read somewhere that hammering the frets in with a rubber hammer (as opposed to pressing them with a fretting press) bears the risk of making the fret slots on the fingerboard more loose ans sloppy. Do you think that pressing is supperior to hammering? Also, do you think that adding glue is essential and 100% necessary when doing a hammered fretting job (this is what the article said - to avoid future loosiness, huh)? Share your thoughts on hammering and pressing, guys. I dont' have my own opinion because I've always used a hammer and superglue. Never touched a fretting press in my life.
  15. DrummerDude
    Nice guitar, GuitarGuy. Very bold and innovative idea to use Pine for the neck. Looks great too. What about the guy from Metal Matt's post? The one who built that pine BC Rich Stealth copy. Anyone got his contact info? Anyone seen the original post somewhere? Or maybe it's a good idea to PM Metal Matt (I don't like it to bother people in private, though). Thanks guys.
  16. DrummerDude
    ^Thanks man, this is the one. Can anyone put me in touch with the guy who built that BC Rich Stealth copy shown in METAL MATT's post?
  17. DrummerDude
    !!METAL MATT!! Hey, maybe this thread is already dead but I gotta ask anyway: where's the original thread with this Stealth hosted at? Tried using Google and quotes from the guy's post - it didn't find a single match. About pine: I remember that there was a thread on ProjectGuitar where a guy built a guitar entirely made of Pine - body, neck, fingerboard... everything. I think the guy was building an Explorer shaped guitar. I did a lot of forum searches using +pine+explorer+neck keywords and different combinations between them but I couldnt find that particular thread witht the all-pine guitar. Or maybe it was posted somewhere else and not on ProjectGuitar... Google did not help me either. Anyone remember about that thread? Got a direct link to it?
  18. DrummerDude
    Two guys are walking down the street. The first one is a drummer. The other has no any money too.
  19. DrummerDude
    I totally do agree. How do you make a drummer play slower? You put a score sheet infront of him. How do you make him completely stop playing? You write some notes in the score.
  20. DrummerDude
    And just to show that those diagrams don't mean EDIT: How come my interpretation of your diagram, using your means came out with a much lower action? That's right - I was trying to make it look like that. What is needed is a real data sheet form ESP. Or let's just ask Alexi. Forget about all this EDIT. I appologize to anyone who felt offended. ADMIN EDIT Language Warning
  21. DrummerDude
    I have one but it is not a joke: DrummerDude just owned you.
  22. DrummerDude
    Maybe you should find a tech in your town that you can talk to face to face. I'd do that if there were any in my town.
  23. DrummerDude
    Take a second look and you will notice that the binding's edge on your diagram is not vertical at all but is slightly leaned left. Just like the line on my diagram. So if you lean those vertical lines you used a bit to the left and make them really follow the binding's edge, you will get almost the same thing as on my diagram. Calling me an idiot won't change the facts. Plus, how did you judge where to put the vertical lines at? What about drawing a line that covers several frets at a time (you did just that by making it cover two frets) and calling it a 3 inch action? I said several times that there's no need to argue. I just need help with getting a fretboard dead straight. Forget about Alexi laiho's guitar.
  24. DrummerDude
    I can't win because I am not competing with anyone. But if you insist on the arguement, then OK, here we go: On your diagram, you simply drew a vertical line from the string to the fret and judged the action by it. This is SO wrong. Why? Because the real line that measures the distance between the fret and the string is NOT vertical from our pint of view. Think about it. Here is what the real measurement line should look like: Apparently, it is QUITE short. In other words - the action is quite low. I hope you get it. Think in 3D. Now, could you give me any advice on the no-neck-relief setup?
  25. DrummerDude
    Opps, I think I figured it out: I will remove the neck and make it dead straight using the truss rod. Then I will level the frets. Then I will put it back on the body, string the guitar, wait for the neck take a forward bend and mess with the truss rod again until the neck is dead straight again. Is this the right way to go?
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