guitarnut

Hi. Thanks! These are my first builds and the Tele was one guitar I didn't own or know much about. It was something new to explore while getting my feet wet. I have plans for LP. LP Jr, PRS 22 fret, Wolfgang, Strat and a few custom designs I'm developing. I'll be moving on to these in the next month or so. Peace, Mark *looks at bolded statement with mouth open ....* Dang man - I thought you were a pro. Too kind! Let me qualify that statement. These are my first complete builds. I built two strats 6 or 7 years back but only the bodies...the necks are StewMac. I love these guitars but they're rough compared to what I can do today in a decent shop with tools. When I started this second round of builds, I was going to refurb these 2 but I decided to leave them as is...seemed wrong to change them. Peace, Mark

I'm not hatin' you at all. I appreciate your perspective. Can't please 'em all. I guess it is an odd mix of custom and classiic. On the vent, folks have likened it to a bird in flight, 2 dolphins leaping, clouds at sunset, but not a lightning bolt...always interesting to see the different impressions people have. Thanks for the kind comments! Peace, Mark

Hi. Thanks! These are my first builds and the Tele was one guitar I didn't own or know much about. It was something new to explore while getting my feet wet. I have plans for LP. LP Jr, PRS 22 fret, Wolfgang, Strat and a few custom designs I'm developing. I'll be moving on to these in the next month or so. Peace, Mark

I finished this one up last weekend. Sorry for the late update. Here are some pics...I had to use a flash on these so the gloss finish doesn't show. I'll add more later. Peace, Mark

Thanks! Thanks. Hope it helps. Thanks Drak! I appreciate the comments! Thanks much! Thanks!!! Appreciate it! Hi Chris. Thanks for the kind words! Peace, Mark

Thanks! I may enter it. I had a Tele in last month...even though that's all I've built so far, don't want to get pigeon-holed into be the "Tele Guy". I'll think about it. Thanks much! I hope to have some sound clips up soon...this week for sure. Peace, Mark

Thanks!!! Mark

Thanks! I appreciate the kind words. Mark

I've been thinking about making a fretwire bender for some time now and just haven't gotten around to it. But, while my wife was wrapping presents for a recent office party, I noticed her running a length of ribbon along the edge of the table to curl it. I thought hmmm, thet's an interesting technique. So, this morning I wanted to try it with some fretwire and the first step was to use a tiny groove to guide the tang as I ran the wire along the edge of a scrap of maple. I used a small triangle file to make the groove. Son of a gun if it didn't work like a charm. I just held the wire firmly and ran it along the groove with my other hand keeping downward pressure on it about 3" above the edge of the scrap letting the top of the wire rest in the joints where my fingers start at my palm. I started in the middle of the wire and worked to one end, then flipped it around and ran the other half. Very nice, even arc with no twisting. The ends need a bit of bending with fret nippers, but the rest curved very nicely. No crank, grooved pulleys or offset cams needed. Just wanted to share. Peace, Mark

I reshaped the neck heel. I like the results much better than where I started. I brought it closer to the body heel and matched the contour better. Once I had the shape drawn, I scored it with a utility knife several passes. Then I used a 1/4" chisel to cut along the grain from my line outward, blending into the neck. Once I had most of the material removed, I sharpened the chisel and very carefully ran along the line, cross-grain to create the ledge of the carve. Then it was just sanding and shaping from there. One of my favorite shaping tools in situations like this, is a dull hacksaw blade with 100 grit stuck to it. It's flexible and can create very fine detail. Plus, it removes material very genlty. Here are before and after shots. I also touched up the binding in a few trouble spots. I used a utility knife to scrape some shavings off of a scrap of binding then added a few drops of acetone. The mixture tuned to a heavy paste that I worked into the areas. Even though the acetone melts the binding almost instantly, it can take up to an hour before it evaporates and the patch hardens...depends on the conditions in the shop. Peace, Mark

Hi. Thanks for the kind comments. I feel better about it now than I did several weeks ago...getting the carve done was a big turning point. My rig worked very well. I didn't have any issues with chatter but I didn't use it for the binding channel...just routing away wood to help with the carving process. My web programming skills are just enough to put a page together. As my confidence grows in the shop, I have to remind myself to stop and take pictures so I can complete the site. I'm really looking forward to the day I can post a video of the actual guitar next to the rendered 3D model. Peace, Mark

Big update. Lots of progress. LOTS of new pics!!! Some of my tags aren't working quite right, you may have to scroll a bit on the pages. The binding and carved top are scraped and leveled: Binding Completed The neck is rough carved: Rough Carved Neck Then the final carve to the finished profile, fretboard trued: Final Carved Neck Frets installed: Frets Control reccesses are cut, controls test fitted: Controls The string and ferrule holes are drilled: String Holes Peace, Mark

Hi Keegan. Thanks for your input. Sweet!!! I'm at spec depth for the pickups and neck pocket. I will leave the center of the guitar untouched except for a bit of sanding so I should be good to go. The 3D images are close to what I want but I will have a flat spot big enough for the bridge, neck pickup and leading up to the edges of the neck pocket... then gently roll the top away from there. Peace, Mark

Yep, by mistake. It should have been posted here. If you read the other post, it directs you to this one. Peace, Mark

Hi chops. Thanks for the input! Here's a still of the planned carve. Here is the displacement map that I used to "carve" the top in software...it raises or lowers the mesh's polygons based on grayscale value. This is not 100% accurate in shape but close enough for the mockup. I can extend the carve higher into the pocket are but at some point I wiil need to bring the top down to meet the binding height. It's probably not that big a deal but I didn't want to take off routing cavities until I was right with it. Peace, Mark

The project moves on... There's a new previz animation up featuring a kinder, gentler carve profile and backloaded electronics. http://www.crenshawweb.com/crv_tele.wmv The body route is well under way...neck pocket, pickup cavities. Control cavity route will be added tomorrow. http://www.crenshawweb.com/texastele/ttp11.htm Work has begun on the neck, though most of it is on a jig for the truss rod route. http://www.crenshawweb.com/texastele/ttp12.htm Complete project... http://www.crenshawweb.com/texastele/texasteleproject.htm More to come...stay tuned! Peace, Mark

Hi Simon. Thanks for the link! I plan to build some more guitars, some with angled necks, that will be a great help to me. But, I really want to stay with the tele vibe on this one. I guess it's going to be a trade off between carve depth and appearence. Such is life. Peace, Mark

Some of you have seen my other thread about the Texas Tele. I have been doing alot of thinking about how to execute the carve but the numbers aren't adding up. Here is a rough diagram of the profile of the body. My concern is keeping the neck at the proper height for the bridge. I have a 1/2" top that I plan to carve down to 1/4" at the edges. I need to take the entire perimeter to a maximum of this height to make a proper channel for binding. The issue is that the sides of the neck in the pocket will be exposed where the top tapers down to the finished thickness. Maybe it's not an issue but I'm struggling with that look. How deep can I safely take the neck pocket and still have a fair amount of adjustability in the bridge? Should I take the raw top down to 3/8" before I start the carve? This will lessen the neck exposure but also tame down the carve depth as well...which I'm not thrilled about. I'm ready to move on to the pickup cavities but I want to make sure my plan is in place so I get the neck pocket to the proper depth the first time. Any advice much appreciated. Peace, Mark

Hi. Thanks for the comments! I'm prepared for the finish. I already have Mixol stains ready to go. I have red, blue, white and black. I am going to try to tint the alder black but my gut tells me it will look better opaque. Also, the red and blue are not as deep as I need so I'm thinking the tiniest bit of black added to them might get me there...I'll test everything on scrap first of course. Peace, Mark

Thanks Drak! I appreciate the encouragement! I'm gonna' do my best to make it look as good in the real world. Peace, Mark

I use Lightwave 3D. I'm an animator by profession. I liked the look in the animation originally but it seems a bit harsh the way it dips suddenly around the edges...just me being picky I guess...probably over thinking this, too. I did a second animation this evening that has a very gentle roll from center to the outer edges...very subtle but I really like it! New Tele Carve Peace, Mark

Hi ae3. Thanks for the input! Peace, Mark

Thanks J. I actually started in sofware when we began the project. Originally a flat top, I thought a carved top would add depth to the graphics so I did a 3D mockup to see if it was worth moving forward. 3D Texas Tele Carved Top Maybe I need to go back to software and simulate some of the ideas posted above. Although carving foam would be cool. Peace, Mark

Hi Drak. Thanks for the input. The reason I posted here is that I was thinking through alot of what you mentioned. I have even considered going back to a flat top which was the original concept. But since the body is a 1 & 5/8 alder back and 5/8" maple top...and is glued up and ready for carving, here's my thinking on it. To start the carve I would take the outer edge down to a hair under 1/4" and then try my carve...whichever idea I go with...then if all else fails, it's a couple of passes through the planer to take the top down to 1/4" all over and move on with a flat top. My only other option at this point is to plane away some gorgeous quilted maple... In this shot the top almost appears to have a gentle slope from center out to the edges...I could see that being a possibility. I looked at alot of other carved Teles before posting but I didn't find anything that really worked for me...again back to your point about it not being agreeable from a design stand point...guess it's subjective a sso many others have seen value in it. Thanks so much for your time. You've given me alot to think about. I'll update as I move forward. Peace, Mark

I have a Tele project that I am working on. You can see the whole project at the following. Texas Tele Project It's going to be my first carve and I want to get some feedback on my design. I have drwn out 4 versions of the contours. I like some because they stay true to the Tele shape but seem a bit clunky. I like others because they are more organic and flow better. I guess I'm just looking for input as to which would be better suited for a Tele...I know it's all highly subjective. Also, are there any "gottchas" that I haven't accounted for? My favorite is D...I think I have plenty of flat space for the bridge and neck pickups. I have allowed for getting the entire outer edge down to the proper thickness for binding...it's an alder back with quilted maple top. Version A: It follows the lines of the body and was drawn starting at the outer profile of the body and moving inward. Version B: It was drawn using the opposite approach...starting in the middle with a rounder, more organic shape and working outward. Version C: It is a combination of A & B. Version D: Is a free form layout that didn't use 1/2" marks like the other 3...just hand-drawn. Comments and advice welcome. Peace, Mark