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guitarnut last won the day on September 19 2012

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  1. Anyone know why this forum isn't sending me notifications? I've set all of my preferences and am Watching several threads and the overall forum...nothing. Now that I think about it, it's been months since I had any notices from PG. I know they have right email because I changed my password and the action emails made it through. Of course, if someone answers this, I'll have to check back to get it... Frustrating.
  2. Thanks, Bob! Yeah, I had the thread started over at TDPRI so I copied and pasted it over here...went much faster than the build has.
  3. Thanks, guys! I really appreciate the comments. It's good to be back on PG. Peace, Mark
  4. I bought it as part of a lot so I don't know exactly but the lot, with several other not so impressive billets, was around $300. Peace, Mark
  5. After a steady diet of Strats over the last 4 months, it's time for something completely different. Let's see if anyone is still following this one. I have a way of losing my audience thru laziness and short attention span. :oops: I didn't make a lot of progress but sometimes a little is all it takes to get back in the game. I was going to start the cavity routes this evening but I decided to take some time and review the build thread...it's been a while since I glued down the top. Here it is as I left it. The binding is done and scraped. It just needs to be sanded flush and the glue cleaned up. Just a little work with 180 grit and she's looking pretty good. A wipe down with naptha makes the top pop. The laminated binding is a nice touch for sure. I'll be doing more of it in the future.
  6. The binding splice worked out well. Actually, the first attempt wasn't too good. I ended up cutting the binding back a bit further and re splicing. The issue wasn't the splice but a thinning of the inner white layer on the spliced piece that was very obvious...maybe too much acetone during lamination. Anyway, here's the result. A little bit of binding goop and it should be good to go. I taped down the last of the binding. It went in very easily...didn't even need to heat it. Then I finished up the scraping.
  7. While the splice was setting up, I decided to do some scraping. I used the scraping tool I made for scraping paint from bindings. it worked pretty well. A little slower going than a cabinet scraper but far more accurate. I took them down to just a hair above the top.
  8. Last night. I made the first run of the binding laminator. But for one small buckle...see below, it couldn't have gone smoother. If I had realized from the beginning that I needed the thickest piece of binding on the bottom of the stack, it would have been a perfect run. I started with the .020" pieces on bottom and one slipped under the adjuster and got in a bind...no pun intended. Still a usable lamination but I'll have to splice it at some point. The edges are uneven and need to be smoothed and squared. I put a narrow strip of 220 in the gap and closed the adjuster to lock the binding in place. Then i drew it thru the gap and it squared and cleaned the edge. Then, it was the usual dance with glue and tape. Nothing out of the ordinary here. Until... ...the buckle. I'll deal with that in the morning. I let the binding set up over night. This morning. Since it was far enough into the binding that I couldn't cut it off at the end, the only option was to cut and splice. I chose a spot the was fairly flat...to avoid having to splice on a curve. I placed a small scrap of PVC under the binding and cut back at an angle...appox. 45°. I flipped the cutoff over and cut the opposite angle on it. I cleaned up the cuts to get a snug fit and I glued each piece in place leaving the joint visible. When I was confident I had the best alignment I was going to get, I taped over the joint last.
  9. I finished up the jig. It got so hot out there I was done for the day. I need to pick up some cheap art brushes to use with the acetone anyway. I added a couple of braces. The joint was strong enough but there was some flex over the length of the PVC. Then I marked and cut a dado for the loom. I screwed a piece of PVC to the bottom of the base and made the upright portion of the loom. I braced it with a few gussets... ...then glued it in place. I also added another piece of cutting board to the far end of the base. You can see it open in the pics above. The horizontal adjuster will slide back against it. I plan to put a thin strip of abrasive in the opening and use it to dress the edge of the laminated binding. I'll probably notch the underside of the adjuster so it will clear the abrasive.
  10. I made the support for the vertical adjuster out of PVC sheet. The base is 3/4" birch ply. The sliding pieces were cut from 2 different thicknesses of plastic cutting board. The knobs are actually gears that I made to test a chain drive for my sander project. The teeth need to be rounded over a bit but they work great as knobs. 1/4" hardware all around. A 1/4" tee nut is countersunk on the bottom of the base for the horizontal adjuster to tighten into. The 2 cutting board pieces have 1/4" slots cut in them. I still need to cut and mount the loom if I'm staying true to the design but I'm not sure I need it. The strips stay aligned, feed in nicely and are held firmly. It's not as pretty as the rendering, but it looks to be just what I wanted. After consuming mass quantities off the grill this afternoon, I'll give it a test run.
  11. I'm planning a w/b/w binding for this build. I need to get the bindings laminated before gluing them in. I came up with this idea. It should keep things lined up and pressed together. I know I could do it by hand but I always try to look down the road and make a jig or template that will serve me many times vs just stumbling thru it...which I tend to do when i get in a hurry. :roll: Here's my idea. It's a variation on the Stew Mac lamination jig. Adjustable width and thickness guides as well as a loom for feeding and aligning the individual bindings. It can be adjusted for any reasonable width or thickness of lamination. I plan to make most of it out of plastic cutting board...nothing sticks to that stuff. With it clamped to the bench and the loom holding the bindings, that leaves both hands free for brushing on acetone and feeding thru the jig.
  12. A little bit if hand sanding with 80 grit took care of some problem areas from the carve. Then I dug out the contour gauge that I bought for carving necks...never used it. I wanted to check the symmetry of the carve. I felt like it was pretty close since I did the pre carve from a fixed point but I tend to obsess in certain areas while carving, so a check was in order. I set the gauge on the butt of the guitar... Then compared it to each side in the area of the bridge. The center where the bridge will be mounted is a bit flatter than I planned but it looks good overall. I'm not concerned with symmetry beyond the bridge...the carve, top to bottom, is vastly different from that point forward. So, on to the binding. It turns out I worked the edges a bit more than I planned and now the binding is a bit taller than the channel...more than needed for scraping. I'm considering chucking up a router on the Saw Dust Generator with my binding bit and lowering the bottom of the channel just a hair. The bearing on the bit will keep it from cutting any deeper and the fixed router overhead will give me a controlled cut that takes the carve out of the equation. Not sure I want chance it so I came in to post this update while I think about it. My goal is to get the binding on today so I'll have to make the call soon.
  13. Next was a little detail work on the top. I sanded the entire carve and worked the edge at the binding channel to make sure it was consistent all the way around. Then I scraped it to unclog the grain after sanding. A little bit of naptha to clean it off and it's starting to look like a guitar. I think it may be the best top I done. I think it's going to take the orange dye beautifully.
  14. Well, it's been awhile since my last post. I had some time to work on several builds today. Next up for this one was the PU routes. Pretty straight forward except that I had to work in two different planes...one for each PU. The first was the toughest. I used double stick around the edges of the PU route and set a screw into the are that would be the bridge PU route. I braced the template with a small piece of scrap at the tail end. The bridge PU was largely on a flat area so no trickery there. Even though I knew the wiring route was under there, my heart still skipped a beat when I lifter the router and saw this. It's all good though. Both PU routes to depth.
  15. Just a bit of tidying up on the carve this morning while I'm waiting for it to warm up. I had a small section around the lower horn that I didn't tier with the SDG because I wasn't sure how the carve would work out there. I roughed in the carve with the finger plane and then, using the same setting as my last pass on the body, I ran that area under the SDG. Then, I just need to clean it up and blend it in. Thii is the first time I could look at my binding choice in place, I originally wanted to go with b/w but seeing it on the body, I'm not in love with it. So, I'll add a white layer on the inside and go w/b/w instead. It's going to mean adjusting the channel depth but I should be able to do it on the SDG without too much trouble...won't even need another bearing. The SDG's tongue will set the depth. I'll probably cut a shorter purfling at the top so I don't have to risk the height I already set with the top carve. I think this will be a cleaner look since the neck has white binding...it will flow better.
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